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1G All of the issues

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Uncle Jacks Hands

Proven Member
64
7
Sep 10, 2019
Fairfax, Virginia
So I have been working on this car for almost two weeks now, noticing this and fixing that. I have unfortunately gotten to the point where I am stumped and don't know what else to do to even get the car to idle properly. There seems to be a lot of lazy issues I have discovered with the car, for example the IAT sensor was broken in half and whoever previously owned it just created plugs to attach to what was left of the sensor, or that the MAP sensor vacuum hose was attached to something that had nothing to do with the manifold. I will post a couple logs, its even to the point my front O2 sensor no longer cycles, not like it ran well even when it did. Any help would be appreciated, I'm kind of at the point I don't even know where to begin. I will post a few other things I have done/noticed since I got the car below.


So I tried running a boost leak test, I do hear the air coming from the oil cap opening, other than that only small leaks at the throttle body that should have already been fixed. Going the other direction, only leak I could hear was at the bov piston. I rewired the MAP, Wideband, and IAT sensors following posts on here, still do not trust the WB readings, it seems like its acting funky. I've fixed a couple vacuum hoses not routed properly, I think I'm going to get an ethanol tester or drain the tank and start over at this point. It doesn't run consistently and this past time didn't even move to closed loop. Yesterday, it would bump into closed loop then the fuel trim would shoot up to 20%. Also, can't get the AirFlowPerRev down, but its already 75% down from what it was before the MAP vacuum hose fix, which also reduced the airflow. I just feel stuck. Please ask any questions and I will promptly respond and or take photos if needed. Again I appreciate any help.
 

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Your injectors aren’t adjusted right for starters. Go into your direct access tab, injbatteryadj and put these numbers in and try again. I’m sure they’re not exact but closer.
 

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blktalon3, very excited that is much appreciated. I didn't even know I could do that. That is the best she has felt since I've gotten her.
So the stock 02 is still installed in the front. It was cycling a think yesterday or the day before. I didn't think I needed to simulate a narrowband if it was still wired in up front. Which would you prefer to do?
 

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You don’t have to it’ll work either way. I think the majority of people just simulate it, that way they’re only dealing with one sensor. Also it allows you to run your wbo2 in the stock location which should make it more accurate. Looking at the log, your wbo2 is still all over the place. I don’t know a lot about AEM o2’s hopefully somebody can chime in that does. Also another. Thing I noticed is your voltage is running kinda low. It should be close to 14v at idle and you’re below 13v. You happen to know what your fuel pressure is?
 
So that is one thing that I have been reading is that a lot of people seem to have issues with the AEM WBs let alone that I do not know exactly which WB I have doesn't help. I also noticed that for some reason in my ECMlink I can not adjust the lambda? I've been reading a lot of places thats how you adjust those things to make the AEM WBs tolerable. How highly do you recommend switching it to the front location, or even purchasing another one if it comes to it?
So my fuel pressure is reading just below 40, im guessing right around 38 from the looks of it. Doesn that need adjusted? I see a couple people running just above 40 on theirs.
 
Should be 43.5 with the vacuum house off. As far as the wbo2 is concerned, I would move it to the stock location. if you can find someone to help with AEM I could work fine. I’m pretty sure they recommend setting up as a linear wb and adjusting the settings yourself. There’s more info in it here. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/aemwb
Looking at the log it almost acting like you have the narrowband output from the AEM connected to the ecu, so you might check the connection to the ecu and make sure you have the right wire hooked up.
 
Ok great video, I watched that earlier in this build but it definitely didn't make as much sense as it did watching it this time through. Thank you very much for that. So I started calibrating the WB using the lambda and voltage, however which my WB voltage being so sporatic, I have no way of properly adjusting it. Any idea why or what could be causing that? The front o2 sensor was acting weird again in this log. Its kind of humorous. Do you think there could be something else causing these issues or might it be time to replace both for peace of mind?
 

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  • First Linear WB Test 9132019.elg
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The only thing I can think of is you have the narrow band wire hooked to the ecu and not the wideband wire. Is you gauge reading like that or is it staying pretty steady. If you’re going to get a new wideband just take the stock sensor out and put the new gauge sensor in the stock location and just simulate the narrowband.
 
When you refer to the narrow band wire you are talking about the front o2 sensor correct? I have both sensors still hooked up, maybe they could be conflicting with one another? The WB gauge is now working great and staying pretty consistent since I made the changes you provided me, its definately not bouncing around like the graph shows. I have been considering moving the WB up front and may just go that route to eliminate having to worry about a second sensor.
 
On your WB there a couple different way you can hook it up. If you hook a certain wire up it will work like a narrowband if you want. If you hook another wire up it will function as a wideband. Since your gauge is reading ok and the log isn’t, (in fact looking at your log it looks like I reading just like a narrowband) I’d say that whoever hooked up the wideband hooked the narrowband wire to the ecu. When I’m saying narrowband I’m still referring to the AEM and not the stock narrowband. Hopefully this isn’t confusing.
 
Ok, I am a little confused because I followed the instructions I found in a couple different locations online. Mine has the orange wire and thats the only one that is attached to anything, but I will look into it again tomorrow, have obligations today. I will also try relocating WBo2 to the front and see what happens. Any quick ways to close the rear o2 bung, at least temporarily, besides welding it? Thank you for all of the responses, it definitely eliminated a lot of frustrations I was having.
 
I haven’t been able to look at the logs yet, but I would say don’t worry about getting rid of the front o2. Here’s nothing wrong with running one or both sensors, but if you’re struggling like you are then focus on fixing the wideband wiring before you change anything up. If you’re really frustrated, you can grab a plug and play innovate kit and not worry about the linear wb function. You’ll get it working properly . Good things come to those who are patient.
 
I considered running narrowband sim, but since stock one works im gonna leave it as is for now. Plan on running t3 and down the road, I like just to have to check on itself is nice.
 
Correction, the orange wire is the only one NOT attached to anything. I will check the wiring install on the WB to see if I can find anything. I find it weird how the WB is cycling like that an the narrowband is responding very strangely or not at all. Thank you both for your input!
 
Yeah, just looked at the log. Like blktalon said, there's something wrong with how the wideband is hooked up. Verify what wideband you have and decide whether you want to run it mono or in combo with the front narrowband sensor. The very easiest thing, and possibly best, is to reconnect your stock/nb sensor to front o2 and correctly wire you wideband to the baro. The cal it a day and be done.
 
So I double checked all of the wiring on the WB today and everything seemed fine. I really don't understand why it would act like a narrow band nor even how to wire up the wb to act as narrowband and vice versa. I am going to go grab the proper tool tomorrow to pull both O2s and try switching it to the front to see if it does anything different. I don't really even know where to start with the battery voltage, I guess ill start test the voltage near the alternator and double check grounds and connections.

The whole car seems to be acting weird electronically, the driver side window controllers stopped working but now the drivers side headlight will pop up when it wouldn't before.
 
Ok guys, thank you for the advice on the battery, I spent the whole day depowering the steering rack and swapping the alternator and now it is reading properly from my voltage tester. I will dig back into the link tomorrow and post an update. Thank you again for pointing me in the right direction.
 

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Ok guys, I am still baffled. I replaced the alternator and am getting a better battery voltage on the link, and I also relocated the WB up to the front stock location. The WB is still reading sporatically and I have no idea why, I used an install guide on here to install the MAP, IAT, and WB while going through each ECMLink tab, so I'm not sure why it is doing that but I will add pictures of the AFR Gauge wiring. Could the previous owner have connected it to the wrong power source? In link, whenever o2 sim is on it leans out and when I turn it off it does the opposite. It will show in the log. I really don't know what else to do from here. Also, I found a strange cluster of what looks like ground wires not connected to anything but looks like it should be apart of pin 4 (O2 sensor) and pin 9? (Det sensor). Ill add some pics from my phone. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.
 

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