The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

ECMlink Help with base idle/driveability tune

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BrandonGST

Proven Member
64
17
Aug 24, 2016
Columbia, Missouri
Alright so I finally got around to getting v3 installed. Up to this point my car had only been idle and cruise tuned by a local friend that had experience with it. It wasn't perfect but allowed me to drive the car to break it in. The car now being at 900 miles I'm preparing for its first power tune. First things first, I want to get it idling and driving good. Im very new to v3 but managed to get it idling good with some studying on global fuel and deadtimes. Here is the mods list:
Car is a 2g eclipse
6-bolt swapped
2.0L
wiseco pistons
eagle rods
eagle crank
king bearings
BC springs/retainers
Bronze valve guides
Kelford 272/272 cams
Stock cam gears
Innovative LC2 WB
Speed density
Omni Power 4 bar MAP Sensor
Ecmlink v3
FP Black turbo
Full exhaust
Stock intake mani
s90 Throttle body
VRSF front mount
Greddy type s vented to atmosphere
ID1000cc injectors

I have the Innovate Wideband's brown wire hooked into the factory 02 location at the ecu. I did set the pins for the GM IAT, and 4 bar and the 02 in link. The problem I am having is, when I go to simulate narrowband 02 the car leans out and doesn't want to run. Aside from that it will idle pretty good without simulating. Any ideas on why this is? Here is a datalog running without simulating. Any recommended adjustments are fully welcomed, but please explain why I need to change it. I want to learn as much as possible from experienced people.
 

Attachments

  • log.2019.09.01-03.elg
    26.9 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
I wonder if it's actually lean at idle. The fuel trims are wanting more fuel, it says, but the wideband is reading rich. I wonder if the wideband needs to be calibrated again.

I did see the stft was 5% before I closed link. Good idea to calibrate it
 
Also go to ecu inputs and set pin assignment to reflect narrowband.
I understand how to get it set up in link to get it pinned and checked to use narrowband, but my problem was when I switch it to simulate narrowband the gauge reads 17-19 and the car runs very bad. The second I turn it back off the car idles again.
I wonder if it's actually lean at idle. The fuel trims are wanting more fuel, it says, but the wideband is reading rich. I wonder if the wideband needs to be calibrated again.
I will look into calibrating it again, but I'm curious as to why it would now be acting up, it was functioning properly on v2, a couple hours later on v3 it still is functioning with narrowband sim off but not with it turned on?
I did see the stft was 5% before I closed link. Good idea to calibrate it
I will get to work on that as well, thank you for the input so far guys I appreciate it

Also I wanted to add that link isn't showing the correct afr, in this log when the car is idling, I was at 14.7-15.1 on the gauge, but in the log it was showing 9.8-9.6 etc any ideas on that?
 
My guess is there's something wrong with your connection from the wideband to the ecu. Also, the innovate kit is VERY finicky and needs a perfect ground and power. Do not share the power with any other source. Ground at the little ground bolt on the passenger side of the ecu location. I think that's the ecu ground. Do that, re-calibrate and report back. I'm confident that the wiring/ground/power will fix your issue.
 
My guess is there's something wrong with your connection from the wideband to the ecu. Also, the innovate kit is VERY finicky and needs a perfect ground and power. Do not share the power with any other source. Ground at the little ground bolt on the passenger side of the ecu location. I think that's the ecu ground. Do that, re-calibrate and report back. I'm confident that the wiring/ground/power will fix your issue.
Alright I will try that, also just to make sure I have this correct, I have the yellow wire on the gauge taped off doing nothing, and the brown wire tapped into the wire that runs to pin 76 for the front 02. Does this sound correct? If so I will check where I got power from and move the ground as well
 
Alright I will try that, also just to make sure I have this correct, I have the yellow wire on the gauge taped off doing nothing, and the brown wire tapped into the wire that runs to pin 76 for the front 02. Does this sound correct? If so I will check where I got power from and move the ground as well
Now that I think of it, I may have went ground directly to the battery. Setup a relay for the power as described in the manual. Yes, the brown wire is correct.
 
Now that I think of it, I may have went ground directly to the battery. Setup a relay for the power as described in the manual. Yes, the brown wire is correct.

I grounded mine to battery also but I don’t recall power supply being that important. Could be??? It’s been a while since I installed mine. As Vegas said, ground has to be common with ecu ground.
 
I grounded mine to battery also but I don’t recall power supply being that important. Could be??? It’s been a while since I installed mine. As Vegas said, ground has to be common with ecu ground.
It's very important. I've a lot of posts where people have issues with the lc1/2 and it's a power supply problem. They're very finicky. I went through this myself.
 
It's very important. I've a lot of posts where people have issues with the lc1/2 and it's a power supply problem. They're very finicky. I went through this myself.

I see. I have the plus so maybe that’s why I don’t have that issue. :idontknow:
 
The wideband input is still receiving the 1 volt factory O2 sensor signal. That's why it shows too rich. Try to disconnect the stock O2 sensor and set properly in the ECU Inputs and NBO2 sim tab and see if it works well.
 
Alright now my gauge in the car and link are showing the same afr. I found a page on ecmtuning on installing the LC2 and I had the wrong wire connected. It does now have its own ground and seems to oscillate between .2-.8 like it should(from what I read thus far). Here is another log with the car simulating narrowband. The car doesn't want to idle and there is a delay in throttle response. I have printouts for trying to adjust the LTFTLo correct for idle but I'm confused on exactly what table I need to be adjusting
 

Attachments

  • log.2019.09.02-04.elg
    36.4 KB · Views: 21
My guess is you have a couple issues. You probably have a vacuum leak, you need to adjust your biss screw ( high isc) and you need to adjust your global and deadtime settings. Where did you get your global# from? I would imagine it should be closer to -55 because they are 1000cc injectors. You also haven't saved your map, IAT and wideband under the pin assignments so you can even log them. Report back.
 
Oh I thought I had saved those pin assignments, good catch there, I'll save those and check for vacuum leaks. And I set it to those numbers just to get it to run long enough to get a log, It didn't even want to try and idle before that. I can't find actual global and deadtimes online for the Id1000's, so i was taking a stab of a guess. I'll adjust more towards 55 to see what happens after checking for a vacuum leak, I'm going to run another boost leak test as well just to be sure. And thinking about it I have a catch can from the vc breather to a baffled can, then routing back to the intake that isnt connected from when I switched to SD LOL. I'll try what you suggested then report my findings. Thanks a lot
 
Oh I thought I had saved those pin assignments, good catch there, I'll save those and check for vacuum leaks. And I set it to those numbers just to get it to run long enough to get a log, It didn't even want to try and idle before that. I can't find actual global and deadtimes online for the Id1000's, so i was taking a stab of a guess. I'll adjust more towards 55 to see what happens after checking for a vacuum leak, I'm going to run another boost leak test as well just to be sure. And thinking about it I have a catch can from the vc breather to a baffled can, then routing back to the intake that isnt connected from when I switched to SD LOL. I'll try what you suggested then report my findings. Thanks a lot
Start with a -55 for global, then start reducing deadtime if you have a negative stft, or increase deadtime if you have a positive stft. If you have a positive stft or combinedft, then car wants more fuel. You ideally want combined ft to +/- 3% or as close to zero as possible. After each change in global/deadtime, go to the ecu tab at the top of the screen and hit the reset fuel trims button. Recheck trims and repeat. Easy money. Car looks sweet. Good luck.
 
Alright, so I checked again for boost leaks and found 2 at the couplers where I installed the new elbow for the IAT. Got the leaks taken care of. I've tried setting the car up at -55 like you suggested, and adjust deadtimes according to STFT, but I can't get this thing to idle anymore. I adjusted the Biss some, but I need to be able to get it idling to do that easier. It seems to be around the 13.9-14.7 area. Do you think I just need to keep adjusting the deadtimes based off the stft or how do you think I should attack this going forward? P.S. I just realized I was not going to the ecu tab and resetting fuel trims after each adjustment. Could this be my problem?

Here's a couple new logs
 

Attachments

  • log.2019.09.02-17.elg
    14.8 KB · Views: 28
  • log.2019.09.02-20.elg
    25 KB · Views: 21
Last edited by a moderator:
You have even more problems than before. Your alternator or battery is jacked. You're getting roughly 12v. There's something wrong there. Your tps/throttle/BISS is jacked.Go through this list one by one and report back. At idle, your throttle position is 5%.

https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/pages/dsm-idle-control

Yeah I'm not doing so hot LOL. I've been at this all day, reading and trying to figure out how to properly get this adjusted. It may just be in my best interest to find someone that knows what their doing get it done properly before I hurt something. Thanks for the link, if im up to it after work tomorrow ill go through that list and try to make sure everything is set properly
 
Hey guys so I didn't want this thread to just fade off into nothingness without finishing what I started so here's an update. I started thinking about what I had done so far. When I first swapped from v2 to v3 the car did start and idle almost as it did on v2. I never let it fully warm up, then decided to wire the innovate wb02 to pin 76 at the ecu. Shortly thereafter is when the car really started having problems. What I learned was I had tapped into pin 76, and I still also had a working factory front 02. So it was getting 2 o2 signals LOL. So I moved the innovate wb02 to pin 75 being the rear o2 and cut the wire this time, connecting my wb02 signal directly to the ecu harness at pin 75. The car ran much better after this change. I have since checked base fuel pressure to be at 42.5-43 with vacuum unplugged from the regulator, a timing light has arrived and I will be checking for 5 BTDC. I'll be including a driving log to see what you all think. One last thing I wanted to note is I was adjusting the isc to be around 30 like everyone suggests. Mine isnt responding, when turning it out the idle does raise some, but in link the iscposition doesn't change like it should, so another isc is on the way. Thanks for the help to all that pitched in thus far
 

Attachments

  • log.2019.09.06-05.elg
    79.7 KB · Views: 23
Hey guys so I didn't want this thread to just fade off into nothingness without finishing what I started so here's an update. I started thinking about what I had done so far. When I first swapped from v2 to v3 the car did start and idle almost as it did on v2. I never let it fully warm up, then decided to wire the innovate wb02 to pin 76 at the ecu. Shortly thereafter is when the car really started having problems. What I learned was I had tapped into pin 76, and I still also had a working factory front 02. So it was getting 2 o2 signals LOL. So I moved the innovate wb02 to pin 75 being the rear o2 and cut the wire this time, connecting my wb02 signal directly to the ecu harness at pin 75. The car ran much better after this change. I have since checked base fuel pressure to be at 42.5-43 with vacuum unplugged from the regulator, a timing light has arrived and I will be checking for 5 BTDC. I'll be including a driving log to see what you all think. One last thing I wanted to note is I was adjusting the isc to be around 30 like everyone suggests. Mine isnt responding, when turning it out the idle does raise some, but in link the iscposition doesn't change like it should, so another isc is on the way. Thanks for the help to all that pitched in thus far
Ha, two o2 sensor signals will wreak some havoc. Warm up the car to operating temp, then shut it off and unplug the battery. Wait a minute and plug it back in to reset the isc. Restart the car and immediately start altering the biss to get to target. Obviously, make sure the isc is plugged in. I can't tell you how many times I forgot to plug it back in.
 
More progress on the car I tried what you mentioned above and it did not change my isc value in link. I swapped the new one in and it changed exactly like it should. The car is running great, I am having a guy by the name of Kenny Kline tune the car for power at the moment. If anyone needs their car tuned I highly recommend looking him up on Facebook. Thank for all the help!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top