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2G Fwd Wally 525

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,410
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I have been having trouble installing my pump. I would really like to use the factory mounting setup. I am having clearance issues in my tank since the fwd tank is shallow. How are you 2g fwd guys mounting and using a 525 or 450. I believe they are the same in size. No matter what bulk fitting I use, clearance is always the issue. Also how did you guys run the wires that are sealed? I just drilled the factory plug since I had a spare to accommodate the wires.

I know this looks bad but this has been a long trial and error. I originally had a weld bung installed but the weld leaked from my local shop.
 

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ohh man you might need a new hanger

went about it all wrong

going to be major fumes inside the car

the wiring changes should be made on the underside of the hanger so no need to touch factory electrical penetration

you need a forged 90 AN fitting to work out with that bulkhead fitting
 
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I dont notice any fumes and the cover goes on decent. I have a two extra hangers to redo this. The person who had the car before me had is 255 wires coming up through like this.

My main issue is how everyone mounted it in a fwd tank. Especially with a bulkhead fitting.
 
I'm using the STM bulkhead fitting in my car. I'm only running a 450, but it's close to the same overall height as the 525. Anyway, the 450 has a plastic nipple and I had to cut that nipple shorter to get it to fit. Don't remember how much but it was just a bit pass all the barbs on the nipple. With no barbs, I made sure I had the hose clamps on there nice and tight. No leaks and able to get 70+ psi on the fuel pressure. There's a write-up of cutting the nipple somewhere in the forums.
 
I'm using the STM bulkhead fitting in my car. I'm only running a 450, but it's close to the same overall height as the 525. Anyway, the 450 has a plastic nipple and I had to cut that nipple shorter to get it to fit. Don't remember how much but it was just a bit pass all the barbs on the nipple. With no barbs, I made sure I had the hose clamps on there nice and tight. No leaks and able to get 70+ psi on the fuel pressure. There's a write-up of cutting the nipple somewhere in the forums.

I was able to leave on barb on mine in an AWD tank but yes, you have to cut the nipple on the fuel pump down and use a small piece of hose to connect the them. Make sure it is 30R10 submersible fuel line and not just rubber coolant hose.
 
I have an awd but maybe this picture will help you a bit. As stated above, wiring should have been made within the tank. Submersible gates hose is needed to prevent it from breaking down inside the gas. I too cut the top barb off of the plastic nipple (i believe there were two barbs on it from walboro). Use fuel injection clamps as well. I dont trust a worm gear on pressure within the 40's.

I was in need of some lower clearance as well. I cut down the rubber grommet on the bottom, making it much thinner than stock. That gave me another 1/4" to play with.

By cutting the grommet and the nipple that should cut down on a bit of height. Good luck
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I dont trust a worm gear on pressure within the 40's.
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Ironic you don't trust the worm gear clamps, but I notice you are using a nylon cable tie to hold the fuel pump on the hanger. The company I work for manufactures cable ties and hose clamps and I wouldn't be surprised if your cable tie is one of ours and I wouldn't trust that cable tie in the fuel tank. Better off with something stainless steel (ie hose clamp) to hold the pump in.
 
Here are some images. I did cut down the rubber grommet to help. The factory L bracket has been modified to give extra room. The black fitting, is the only way I can fit it without hitting the bottom of the tank. The other bulkheads are to long underneath. I need a very small compact fitting.

Is there a way to tap a large npt fitting in here? I would need a 8an with the barn. I saw a thread where a person welded it but I cant weld good enough and I already paid a welder who got me in the situation to begin with.

As I said above, the black fitting works perfect but is a crappy way to keep this setup.
 

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ATF 2GTalon - look closer, the tie is only securing the wiring from flopping around. I do not disagree with you in regards to the stainless, but it is NOT there to attach the pump to the anger. I have some stainless heat wrap ties, maybe ill swap it out for that. Thanks for the heads up tho
 
I got the pump installed. I attached some photos. I tried a variety if fittings. The only one that worked was the stm bulkhead. All the other ones were to long and didnt provide enough clearance. I had to cut a barb off the pump and slide the pump against the bulkhead. I had to slot the L bracket and force it up higher. Even after all this, the fitment in the tank was still very tight. The sock is much bigger. If need be, you can double up on the hanger to tank gasket. I have had no leaks so far.
 

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I want to update this thread. My pump is installed but doesnt seal good on the tank. I cant fit this pump in the tank. I cant cut anymore off my bulkhead or the pump itself. I am using two gaskets under the hanger and can still feel the pump bottoming out as I have to push down and feel the sock squishing.

So I had a spacer machined to the exact diameter of the hanger to make it sit up higher. Something I didnt think of was how short the studs are on the tank. Does anyone have any ideas on how to maybe extend the studs somehow? I dont want to cut and weld studs in the tank. I could drill and tap but the tank looks fairly thin, not sure that would work.

I seen some fastener in the PC world where its a nut and has threads to receive a bolt. Something where I would thread this fastener onto the studs, then set my hanger onto it, then thread in bolts on. I dont know what that is called. I cant seem to find it anywhere.
 
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