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1G 1g fuel pump grounding issue

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So I just finished installing my alternators and Walbro 255 twins. I go to check to make sure the pump turn on in ecm link and got nothing. The circuit that ran the inline works but not the dual hanger. I narrowed it down to the ground. The inline has its own ground, I was running the walbros to the factory ground on the harness ,the black wire. The factory hanger has provisions for a ground location . I'm using an aftermarket hanger so I was running the ground from the pumps to the black wire on car harness. When i grounded the wire elsewhere the pumps fired right up. . Where is this wire grounded too ? I've had the entire car apart ....
 
Can you draw a diagram of exactly how you have everything wired?
 
Can you draw a diagram of exactly how you have everything wired?
THe wiring is correct , I think my issue is the ground came loose near the antenna. I believe this is the ground location for the fuel pump. Can someone verify this ? I think I removed it and forgot to put it back. I’m at work and can’t verify it. My stupid ass bought 2 new pumps because of this.
 
THe wiring is correct , I think my issue is the ground came loose near the antenna. I believe this is the ground location for the fuel pump. Can someone verify this ? I think I removed it and forgot to put it back. I’m at work and can’t verify it. My stupid ass bought 2 new pumps because of this.

Isn't the fuel pump grounded on the hanger? You should of checked for power and ground before buying new fuel pumps. Can't you just return the fuel pumps and get your money back?
 
Isn't the fuel pump grounded on the hanger? You should of checked for power and ground before buying new fuel pumps. Can't you just return the fuel pumps and get your money back?
No and yes , stock hangers yes, I have a full blown double pumper hanger, They do not have provisions for a ground. There is a ground in the passenger lift gate area, I believe this is the problem. I have power, just no ground at the black wire. I change my pumps yearly anyway.
 
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The only thing you need off of the OEM pump connector is the fuel pump trigger wire to drive the switching terminals (either 85 or 86). From there, red wire from the fuel sender gets power from the battery (or alternator post if you choose to feed from there - recommended). The grounds run to the switched terminals (87 and 30, which is normally open). Relay terminal 30a is left open/unconnected since it is normally closed. I run that ground path to the chassis somewhere in the trunk. There's lots of metal in the trunk, so a good ground point on a body stud or through a bolt somewhere should be taster's choice. The yellow wires are for the fuel gauge, you're on your own for that one...the FSM should cover their connection if yours isn't already working or wanted.
 
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The only thing you need off of the OEM pump connector is the fuel pump trigger wire to drive the switching terminals (either 85 or 86). From there, red wire from the fuel sender gets power from the battery (or alternator post if you choose to feed from there - recommended). The grounds run to the switched terminals (87 and 30, which is normally open). Relay terminal 30a is left open/unconnected since it is normally closed. I run that ground path to the chassis somewhere in the trunk. There's lots of metal in the trunk, so a good ground point on a body stud or through a bolt somewhere should be taster's choice. The yellow wires are for the fuel gauge, you're on your own for that one...the FSM should cover their connection if yours isn't already working or wanted.
Good news boys , cars seeing 14v at idle with all accessories running. I switched to 93 galant alternator 90 amp and hobb switched my secondary pumps...
 
Ready to rock
 

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