The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

No oil getting to head?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

John Mark Dongon

Proven Member
94
5
Feb 7, 2019
Stockton, California
I'm trying to prime my rebuilt engine but there isn't any oil getting to the lifters when I spin the oil sprocket with a drill. Has brand new 3g lifter I bleed them out before install, oil pump was reconditioned and did a balance shaft delete. I filled the engine with only 3.5 quarts is that enough to reach the oil strainer or do I need to put more oil?
 
Last edited:
How long are you spinning it for? You need to get some good speed and it takes a bit but is there any reason you didn't do a full fill of 4.5qt (incl. oil filter)?
 
How long are you spinning it for? You need to get some good speed and it takes a bit but is there any reason you didn't do a full fill of 4.5qt (incl. oil filter)?
I spinned it for about 5 minutes but seems like no progress so I stopped spinning it, spins very fast same speed as if the car was running, I didn't fill it up all the way just in case there was a leak, but there wasn't a leak so I filled her up to 4 quarts. Still keep spinning nothing, when I remove the brand new oil filter it's dry is there supposed to be oil in there?
 
Last edited:
I spinned it for about 5 minutes but seems like no progress so I stopped spinning it, spins very fast same speed as if the car was running, I didn't fill it up all the way just in case there was a leak, but there wasn't a leak so I filled her up to 4 quarts. Still keep spinning nothing, when I remove the brand new oil filter it's dry is there supposed to be oil in there?

Well you definitely should if you've been spinning the pump clockwise (although I don't think it should matter what direction as they're straightcut gears). It's not absolutely necessary, though, as it should fill up as soon as the pump starts picking up the oil.

Are you absolutely certain you still have a pickup tube attached? Sometimes they break off, especially if you're running ARP studs and cut the arm off.

After about 3 seconds you should hear and feel the load, inducing torque against the drill, caused by the oil pump.
 
Have you put anything in the pump to prime it, like assembly lube or some Vaseline/grease? It'll be hard for a dry pump to pull up oil.

Otherwise you may have a big air leak somewhere.
 
Ah, yes, if its just been rebuilt you should still have the pickup. Forgot about that part.. thought it was a partial rebuild temporarily.
Yeah, youd want at least a film of oil or something on the gears to promote a suction capability. Pump mostly drains after time sitting and during oil changes anyway.. but theres always some left pooled inside that recoats the gears as soon as it starts spinning.
 
Pull the oil filter housing off, take a ketchup bottle with a pointy tip (get one at a dollar store) fill the ketchup bottle full of oil, squeeze all of the oil into one oil port, repeat for the other oil port, re-install oil filter housing, try priming with drill again.
 
As motomattx said, pull the OFH. A port there runs directly into the pump. It is a lot easier to remove the filter housing than the front case.

Wd40 is a lubricant amongst other things. Its just not a very good one for this case.
Squeeky hinges? Wd40.
Anything that requires viscosity? oil.
Anything that needs to stay clumped on in room temperature? Assembly lube or vaseline.
 
WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. Thelubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components

Unless you buy there silicone based one that's listed as a lubricant wd40 is a solvent. Only reason I brought any of this up is so some kid doesnt see wd40 as a lubricant that he can use in assembly I'm not trying to stir the pot but my autos instructor made a huge deal on it being a solvant that eats at rubber over time.
 
a true engine lubricant, hells no. never use purely for assembly, agreed, only to coat and protect in mild conditions given its base as a petroleum oil, of which up to 35% of its volume is comprised.
would also be hesitant on calling it a general solvent, though. the msds on it would suggest the same.

while i dont exactly agree on their surface compatibility.. i would not be using it on plastic or rubber myself.

• Surface Compatibility: For all variations : WD-40 Multi-Use Product demonstrates none to negligible deleterious effect to plastic, rubber and metal hard surfaces. This includes Acetal, neoprene/hard rubber, HDPE, PPS Copolymer Polysulfone, Teflon, Viton, steel, galvanized steel hot dip, electroplated, copper, brass, magnesium, nickel, tin plate, titanium and zin

edit: REALLY dont recommend any petroleum products on plastic or rubber
 
Last edited:
WD-40 is just too thin for an engine. It was meant to prevent rust and corrosion and isnt viscous enough for an oil pump or anything else in an engine other than keeping cylinder walls and other surfaces rust free after machining.

It was made to keep rust and corrosion off the Atlas Missile and was the 40th attempt in trying to get it right.

Just like how duck/duct tape was originally made to keep water from getting into ammo cases during WWII.

Thought I would just throw in some fun facts. Now back to trying to find a lower thermostat housing... hopefully.
 
Last edited:
Had the same problem, oil pump needs to be filled with oil or assembly lube or the pump won’t be able to suck up oil from the oil pan. Pull the front case off and prime the pump correctly
So your saying without any oil or lube oil won't get sucked up at all? Im pretty sure that lube just assist, but there should still be oil getting sucked lubed or not
 
Last edited:
While WD-40 has a high boiling point the flash point is much much lower, only 138f. So its just going to turn into vapor super fast and could also ignite if there is an ignition source.

It also depends on what you are using it for as a lubricant. It wasnt designed as a lubricant, but if it reduces friction between 2 objects it is still classified as a lubricant.

Even on their site the "WD-40 is not really a lubricant." is listed under the myths section and they answer it with "While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal."
 
No, the dot is there so that alignment is made between the outside timing mark and the lobes of the balance shaft, as they are on two seperate gears and connected shafts, so to speak. If you have a bs delete the dot does not serve a purpose.

is that a straight cut gear youre holding and a helical gear in the housing, or is that a trick of the camera's perspective? it has been a while since i assembled an oil pump but i could have sworn both needed to be the same type. but i also dont see how a straight cut could even mesh with a helical unless the diameters are totally different.. am i going crazy here
 
Last edited:
ok it must be just how they looked on my phone.. the one he is holding looked straight cut, especially the teeth over his thumb. the pointer finger looks a tad more helical.
i was asking because the gear in the pump looks much more exaggerated in its cut. i guess due to perspective.

OP could you do a side profile pic of both gears side by side? probably not needed but just to settle increasing arguments that i need to leave work and lie down LOL
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top