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2G No power to OBDII port

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Louis Gibson

Probationary Member
27
0
Jun 23, 2019
Tillamook, Oregon
97’ eclipse gst 2.0 turbocharged

Checked the threads on here and found little to no info other than suggestions to check fuse boxes and my cig lighter circuit/fuse

Got a new scanner tool (supports Mitsubishi vehicles) and as I went to plug into OBDII port, didn’t get nothing. Checked the tool in my ford ranger and it started right up. I also tested another Bluetooth scanner I had laying around and that also didn’t turn on. Checked my fuses (20amps especially) and didn’t notice any that had blown.

Checked the external fuse box and didn’t see anything that would control the power going to my auxiliary inputs.

Any ideas on what could be causing my OBDII port to not function?
 
I have seen the pins in the connector back out, causing no connection, take a volt meter and check for actual voltage and ground on the correct pins.
 
I took the OBD port out of the metal sleeve that holds it in place and keeps it from moving. didn’t notice any wires that had backed out. Which pins do I check for voltage? I know the end pin has constant 12v on it at all times, but don’t know exactly how to check voltage
 
You need a multi meter, may be able to borrow from advanced auto parts or pep boys. Turn the switch to DC and put the black lead on ground, something metal. Then red one on the 12volt constant pin (Pin 16) on the obd port. Should read 12-12.7 volts. Then take the red lead off, turn the switch to continuity ->|-- (should look like that symbol) then put black on ground again, then put red on the ground pin on the obd (Pin 4), you should hear it beep to say ground is present. If those two check out then you may have an issue with the scanner, if not you have a bad fuse, or bad ground.
 

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You need a multi meter, may be able to borrow from advanced auto parts or pep boys. Turn the switch to DC and put the black lead on ground, something metal. Then red one on the 12volt constant pin (Pin 16) on the obd port. Should read 12-12.7 volts. Then take the red lead off, turn the switch to continuity ->|-- (should look like that symbol) then put black on ground again, then put red on the ground pin on the obd (Pin 4), you should hear it beep to say ground is present. If those two check out then you may have an issue with the scanner, if not you have a bad fuse, or bad ground.

Okay I’ll try that. I have a meter so I’ll give it a shot.

Any ideas where the bad ground or whatever the issue is might be?
 
97’ eclipse gst 2.0 turbocharged

Checked the threads on here and found little to no info other than suggestions to check fuse boxes and my cig lighter circuit/fuse

Got a new scanner tool (supports Mitsubishi vehicles) and as I went to plug into OBDII port, didn’t get nothing. Checked the tool in my ford ranger and it started right up. I also tested another Bluetooth scanner I had laying around and that also didn’t turn on. Checked my fuses (20amps especially) and didn’t notice any that had blown.

Checked the external fuse box and didn’t see anything that would control the power going to my auxiliary inputs.

Any ideas on what could be causing my OBDII port to not function?
I had same issue. Turned out to be corrosion in the Engine Compartment fuse box for the 10 Amp fuses in the Yellow two fuse holder, #'s 10, and11. I should have caught it sooner but didn't realize my key removal chime wasn't working either.
 
Yes, the 10A fuse #11 "Room Lamp" (engine fuse box, 2nd from bottom left) supplies necessary backup power to the ECU among other things. Press the yellow tabs inward to remove holder.
 
Yes, the 10A fuse #11 "Room Lamp" (engine fuse box, 2nd from bottom left) supplies necessary backup power to the ECU among other things. Press the yellow tabs inward to remove holder.
It's fixed. The car died on me driving home from church and had to get it towed. Now that I'm able to see the code it's got a pending Crank Angle Sensor error so I'm going to check the sensor before pulling the timing covers etc. Do you really have to pull the timing belt to replace it?
 
No but you'll have to remove the lower timing belt cover on the 2g turbo. You can then turn the crank so the CPS sensing blade is not in the CPS so it can be removed. Not sure how you'll test it since it's a Hall effect device so measuring resistance means nothing. You could measure voltage while cranking to see if the average voltage on pin 2 is between 0.4-4.0v (was 2.4v on mine).
 
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