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2G 2.3L stroker suggestion !!

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Terrj

Proven Member
101
7
Oct 22, 2016
atlantic, New_Jersey
Looking for recommendation to build my motor , i did researched but its been so long now so i was wondering if theres anything new for our car or people still use the same parts to build it. Also im from NJ, is anyone in the same area that can recommend me a good reliable shop to build the motor for me ?
Any advice is greatly appreciated !
 
The strokers arent used much for racing, they have reliability issues for most people wanting to rev the engine, but as far as I know there arent any new technologies out there for them.
 
The strokers arent used much for racing, they have reliability issues for most people wanting to rev the engine, but as far as I know there arent any new technologies out there for them.
I hardly race and i dont really rev past 7k anyway, for me its just unnecessary to hit the top speed, i have a motorcycle for that. My main goal is to hit full boost as early as my big 16g but with a much bigger turbo , and have fun driving it to work whenever i can thats all.
Should i try to piece together my own kit or just buy a kit from MAP or STM ?
 
Well in that case if you have extra money you can get a kit, otherwise for me I would just buy the best parts that I can and put the money into quality rather than convenience.
 
Honestly, not worth it. They oval the cylinders to the point of unable to be serviced or fixed at less than 70,000 miles. If you're determined, go with a built 4G64. Do a long-rod build and you can safely rev it out.
 
Well in that case if you have extra money you can get a kit, otherwise for me I would just buy the best parts that I can and put the money into quality rather than convenience.
I only want to make 450-500whp so not really a crazy number , guess i'll go with the MAP stroker stg1 kit
 
Honestly, not worth it. They oval the cylinders to the point of unable to be serviced or fixed at less than 70,000 miles. If you're determined, go with a built 4G64. Do a long-rod build and you can safely rev it out.
I dont rev or race my car all the way to redline ever and i hardly drive over 4000 miles a year . Its a weekend warrior LOL
 
Honestly, why ask questions you already know the answer to?
Im asking for suggestion on which parts to get, i know what the differences between the 2.0 and 2.3 , i just have no idea what to buy . I dont wanna waste thousands of dollars just to get it done wrong . Also looking for a reputable shop around NJ to build it for me.
 
I drive a 2.3 stroker 2G and I like it, torqueful, fun to drive in the city.
As for the stroker's parts, as mentioned above, not so different from before. Maybe recently 94mm 2.1L stroker (actually would be around 2.15L) parts are easier to get than before since some manufacturers produce them as off the shelf lineup. So that could be another choice.
 
If you don’t want to replace the transmission constantly run a 2.0. The drivetrain in these cars becomes a time bomb over 450ft/lbs. The 2.3 will also oval out the cylinders and start to lose ring seal much faster than a 2.0.
 
I drive a 2.3 stroker 2G and I like it, torqueful, fun to drive in the city.
As for the stroker's parts, as mentioned above, not so different from before. Maybe recently 94mm 2.1L stroker (actually would be around 2.15L) parts are easier to get than before since some manufacturers produce them as off the shelf lineup. So that could be another choice.
So the 2.3L stroker kit from MAPerformance will be good enough ? What does bored .20" mean though ?
 
So the 2.3L stroker kit from MAPerformance will be good enough ?
MAP is good, also there are many other shops can do that for you. If MAP is the closest shop for you, you should talk with them. Most parts combinations can cover your desired power range.

What does bored .20" mean though ?
I think you meant .020", which means you cut the cylinders .020"(about 0.5mm) to use oversize pistons.

The cons mentioned above is true. There are pros and cons. You get something and you loose something instead of that. As you stated that you know the differences between 2.0 and 2.3. So I didn't mention general known things. Also you stated that you want 450-500 and hardly drive over 4000 miles a year, so in my opinion is the 2.3L wouldn't be a problem. But should consider well about the pros/cons with your purpose before purchasing.
 
MAP is good, also there are many other shops can do that for you. If MAP is the closest shop for you, you should talk with them. Most parts combinations can cover your desired power range.


I think you meant .020", which means you cut the cylinders .020"(about 0.5mm) to use oversize pistons.

The cons mentioned above is true. There are pros and cons. You get something and you loose something instead of that. As you stated that you know the differences between 2.0 and 2.3. So I didn't mention general known things. Also you stated that you want 450-500 and hardly drive over 4000 miles a year, so in my opinion is the 2.3L wouldn't be a problem. But should consider well about the pros/cons with your purpose before purchasing.
Yea i just want to have a respectable street power for the car without having to hit the redline all the damn time LOL . So is it ok to buy used parts to save some money or should i buy new ?
 
So is it ok to buy used parts to save some money or should i buy new ?
Well if the budget allows you, should go with new parts but it all depends on the conditions of the used parts and if the shop who actually builds your engine would accept it or not.
 
Ive been recommended wiseco 1400HD pistons, and turbo tuff rods, OE 100mm crank and ACL race bearings. Pair this with a kiggley main girdle (if 6 bolt, 7 bolts have a girdle factory) While the rods are a little overkill, Id rather be able to sleep knowing the rods are no longer the weak point. Ive been researching for a 2.3 build and a very reputable high power guy gave me these recommendations. I was told this setup was tried and true. Hope this helps.
 
Ive been recommended wiseco 1400HD pistons, and turbo tuff rods, OE 100mm crank and ACL race bearings. Pair this with a kiggley main girdle (if 6 bolt, 7 bolts have a girdle factory) While the rods are a little overkill, Id rather be able to sleep knowing the rods are no longer the weak point. Ive been researching for a 2.3 build and a very reputable high power guy gave me these recommendations. I was told this setup was tried and true. Hope this helps.
That is the exact setup Curt Brown will build you.
 
Ive been recommended wiseco 1400HD pistons, and turbo tuff rods, OE 100mm crank and ACL race bearings. Pair this with a kiggley main girdle (if 6 bolt, 7 bolts have a girdle factory) While the rods are a little overkill, Id rather be able to sleep knowing the rods are no longer the weak point. Ive been researching for a 2.3 build and a very reputable high power guy gave me these recommendations. I was told this setup was tried and true. Hope this helps.
Can i use 4g64 100mm crank instead and how much did the whole thing cost you ?
 
@Terrj
IMO, you don't need the 1400HD and the turbo tuff rods for your desired HP range and your use, you are spending more money and are making the rotating assembly heavier if you know this means. The standard forged pistons and H-beam rods are more than enough and you can save several hundred dollars and can have the rotating assembly lighter. The 1400HD has the same forging as the standard, it's just come with upgraded pins and some gas ports or optional thing. And the turbo tuff rods are durable but too heavy.
If I were you (your purpose that you mentioned and the cons of stroker are considered), I would go with the standard 2618 forged pistons or 4032 pistons (I personally love 4032 for daily drive, durable enough, lighter weight, less PTW clearance) and h-beam rods (lighter weight than turbo tuff) combos and with the saved money to have the engine balanced or to buy a fluidampr or ATI damper.
 
Yea i just want to have a respectable street power for the car without having to hit the redline all the damn time LOL . So is it ok to buy used parts to save some money or should i buy new ?
I have lots of experience with this having built and ran every 4g combo there is.

It’s easier on parts to make 400 ft/lbs and rev to 9,000 rpms to make 700hp than it is to rev to 6,500 rpms making 500hp with probably 550+ft/lbs.

Your driving style is up to you though. Typically people that want a lot of response and torque move on to other platforms after either breaking a lot of parts, or just not getting the driving experience they want.


If you like riding a two stroke dirt bike you’ll love a big power small displacement turbo car.


I would say that for a pumpgas limited setup more displacement is an easy way to up the power ceiling, and you won’t have a big torque spike breaking everything.
 
I have lots of experience with this having built and ran every 4g combo there is.

It’s easier on parts to make 400 ft/lbs and rev to 9,000 rpms to make 700hp than it is to rev to 6,500 rpms making 500hp with probably 550+ft/lbs.

Your driving style is up to you though. Typically people that want a lot of response and torque move on to other platforms after either breaking a lot of parts, or just not getting the driving experience they want.


If you like riding a two stroke dirt bike you’ll love a big power small displacement turbo car.


I would say that for a pumpgas limited setup more displacement is an easy way to up the power ceiling, and you won’t have a big torque spike breaking everything.
I agree.
 
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