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1G Motor city reman Saturn alternator?

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So like some of you I have been battling a voltage shortage issue at idle and when in boost. I have been using a oem auto mitsu alternator. I also have a standard cs130 saturn Alternator with the 3 wire plug sitting in a box. For simplicity Sake I decided to try the 1 wire 160 amp unit from motor city . Have any of you had any luck with this unit?
 
I used that one shortly until I fried it probably from heat. Replaced it with a lower amp one also from there plus added heat shielding and it's been fine for over a year so far. Works great. Both the single wire self exciting.
 
I used the 1-wire 125amp and I didn't like that it would "hunt" at idle sometimes. In other words, the idle would surge a little bit and the lights would dim and lighten at the same time. I sold it, switched to the 3 wire and that magically stopped. I'd much rather have the 3-wire. Hell, it's only 2 extra wires.
 
I should add my car doesn't have a lot of what a street car has, like interior lights, a/c, stereo, headlights... things that might make the hunting/dimming Vegas mentioned noticeable. I don't notice any sort of hunting or voltage issues in general and I do monitor my voltage with a live display on my dash, my voltage stays nice and high consistently. It might also help that I idle around 1100rpm. So maybe my anecdotal results aren't as valuable as his.
 
The motor City stuff is good, just had a customer order one for a sound system build, but they don't output at idle speeds below 1k rpms very well. Over that, no issues getting the amps.

I would get the 3 wire personally if it's a daily car of any fashion, more stable performance. The 1 wires are nice for drag or racing builds.
 
From what I've seen. The 3 wire gives better performance. The voltage sense wire allows the alternator to really ramp up when it is put on a high draw load( I.e. fuel pump). A single self exciting system will never work as well/fast as it is getting it's input from the battery that act as a buffer.
 
From what I've seen. The 3 wire gives better performance. The voltage sense wire allows the alternator to really ramp up when it is put on a high draw load( I.e. fuel pump). A single self exciting system will never work as well/fast as it is getting it's input from the battery that act as a buffer.
So where does everyone put the sense wire? That is the ?
 
So the red wire to that 40 amp “Bat” One wire goes from the post on the alternator to the “alt” on the fuse box then I hook up the other to the brown ?
 
I took off the serpentine pulley off and threw it on the lathe to get some added clearance. I might give the standard cs130 alternator a try again. We find out tmrw.
 
So the red wire to that 40 amp “Bat” One wire goes from the post on the alternator to the “alt” on the fuse box then I hook up the other to the brown ?
I believe one goes to the alt-relay and one goes to the alt-sens. I cant remember which one goes where. You should be able to search for it but if you can't figure it out I can look at the car tonight.
 
I ran my sense wire to the junction for all of the voltage that I created on the firewall, so something similar would work fine, just run it to an area where some of the high draw 12v lines come together, the fuse box where the large amperage fuses are should work ok, some run it to the fuel pump positive voltage supply back at the pump.
 
I ran my sense wire to the junction for all of the voltage that I created on the firewall, so something similar would work fine, just run it to an area where some of the high draw 12v lines come together, the fuse box where the large amperage fuses are should work ok, some run it to the fuel pump positive voltage supply back at the pump.
Ive decided to just use the standard 3 wire cs130, ill run the sense wire to the junction box I use under the dash for the battery relocation. I took the pulley off and threw it on the lathe to remove some material for clearance purposes. Going to install everything tmrw. Plans are to hit test n tune next weekend, See what this bi*** has in her.
 
im getting really tired of this alternator bullshit, looks like im going back to the mitsu alternator. The saturn alternator is making funny noises. I havent tried the motor city unit because its a really tight fit, the pulley hits the frame rail. So its either I hole saw the frame and run the 1 wire or go back to the mitsu alternator.
 
im getting really tired of this alternator bullshit, looks like im going back to the mitsu alternator. The saturn alternator is making funny noises. I havent tried the motor city unit because its a really tight fit, the pulley hits the frame rail. So its either I hole saw the frame and run the 1 wire or go back to the mitsu alternator.
Pound on the frame to get some clearance.
 
Get a new Bosch Saturn alternator and pig tail plug. I’m getting 15.5-16.3v at idle. I’m running mechanical pump so that helps. Single pump amps draw shouldn’t be too bad though. I’ll report back once I get more testing.
 
New alternator is in, I modified the frame rail for more clearance. My twin walbros burnt out for some reason, could be from sitting in e85 all winter. I’m removing the inline pump for the time being. I think the twin pumps should be just fine for my goals for this season. I think running 3 pumps all the time factors in to my voltage issues. Over the winter I plan on running a sumped oem tank with one big inline pump. I plan to hit test n tune on aug 31st , gunna turn up the wick, I don’t give a shit anymore. I also took out some of my gauges ie fuel pressure boost etc , just left oil pressure. All this info is available via ecmlink anyway.
 
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