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1G Time to pull the Clutch Pedal Assembly

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tsiawd90

Supporting Member
101
22
Nov 16, 2017
Houston, Texas
I am not looking forward to removing this thing. It looks like a nightmare job.

Does anyone know if Shep trans is still repairing clutch pedal assemblies or are there other options to have it repaired?

Is there anything else I should look to replace or fix while I am in here?

I swear I have no idea how the previous owner did this much damage to this car. There are so many failures that should have parked this car I have no idea how he was able to continue breaking parts.

This is how much play is in the clutch pedal before it engages the master cylinder rod at all.
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No clue if Shep still does the repairs, but it's not that bad to take the pedal assembly out.

Dropping the column is best, otherwise it's more time consuming. Oh and make sure to have your choice four letter words ready to go.
 
I found taking out the seat helps also. I've done this twice..... I think I'd rather pull an engine.
 
Shep unfortunately no longer does the pedal rebuilds. Try to find a new OEM Pedal, and get the bushing from JNZ. Then have a good welder weld the nut to the bracket, and the nut to the pedal rod. Get a nut with a flanged surface to have more surface area on the bracket. When you get it welded, make sure you remove the slack by pushing the bracket in the direction of travel towards the firewall and pull up on the pedal so the bracket is closer to the master cylinder. If you do it wrong you can end up welding your pedal so you adjust the rod all the way and it runs out of threads still. It is a PITA to get in and out, but after doing mine about 5 times before I got it right, its not too crazy, just be patient.

Adding a few notes here. Yes remove the drivers seat, drop the column, but I don't recommend removing the column like I did unless you want it to be a whole new headache of making your steering wheel straight again. You have to remove the brake booster and use a block of wood to move the brake master cylinder out of the way. Also make sure you verify that the clutch master cylinder or slave are not seized. I let my car sit for a few years because of this project and when I finally installed my Shep pedal assembly, I broke the welds trying to press the clutch due to the master cylinder being seized.
 

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I would recommend ordering the full kit from @Brando_DSM. Then having someone weld the end. Pulling the assembly is not hard. Ive done it in both Galants and DSMs. Takes me about 30 minutes to do it. It looks like a lot but its very simple.
 
Well #$&^%*&*% %#(^(^( #*%&*%#*&#* it is out.

It didn't even look that bad. Not nearly as bad as some of the images I saw online. But I guess it is bad enough that it slips around. I'll upload some pics later. I need to figure out if where is somewhere I can just send it out to have it fixed. I could try welding it up myself but I really do not want to ever have to pull it out again.

Also any tips on how to keep the steering wheel straight when I put the steering column back in?
 
Well #$&^%*&*% %#(^(^( #*%&*%#*&#* it is out.

It didn't even look that bad. Not nearly as bad as some of the images I saw online. But I guess it is bad enough that it slips around. I'll upload some pics later. I need to figure out if where is somewhere I can just send it out to have it fixed. I could try welding it up myself but I really do not want to ever have to pull it out again.

Also any tips on how to keep the steering wheel straight when I put the steering column back in?

If you pulled the splines off without marking :)ohdamn:) then you'll just have to give it your best eyeball or try and look for witness marks to line up.

You could always take images and an explanation to any decent welding shop and have them do it. Request tig for penetration.
Could always do it yourself if you have a decent welder, when I need to I know I will be doing it myself.
 
How I figured I would try to line up the steering column so it is centered is to use zip ties and loop them through each of the holes of the bracket onto the bolt holes of the car and pull them the same number of clicks so the brackets hang evenly spaced from the car. This way it should be supported but you can swing it forward and back enough to put the splines on and see if it’s straight and then adjust from there.

This was just an idea though. I was planning to try it but I’ve just been living with a crooked steering wheel for now. I’ll be dropping the rack to rebuild it and figured I’d get it straight again then.
 
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