The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support ExtremePSI

Cant bleed the brakes, no fluid comes out!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Nico_

Proven Member
83
14
Jan 2, 2013
Piracicaba, South_America
Hey, i just took my car to a shop and we were manualing trying to change the brake fluid and then bleed it. my car is a 95 gsx with abs. We started the car, and then opened the bleeder valves on the calipers in the correct order, and the fluid wouldnt come out, of any calipers, just a few drops, no matter how hard i was pushing the brake pedal. also, the pedal would not low down. it always came back up. I dont know if it matters or not but my abs unit does not work, the abs light is on. The brakes used to work somewhat normal, only a little weak, and now it works like shit, but still works.
Any ideas?
 
If it were mine I'd be swapping out the ABS unit for a non-abs setup. ABS is good.....when it works but a straight shot from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders makes me feel better when I have to use that pedal. :)
 
If it were mine I'd be swapping out the ABS unit for a non-abs setup. ABS is good.....when it works but a straight shot from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders makes me feel better when I have to use that pedal. :)
it's on my to do list, but right now i just want to know why i can't bleed it. abs shouldnt be a problem in this case
 
they removed the bleeder completly, and nothing came out on the rear.Only a few drops in the front, i'm thinking the proportioning valve is bad or there's air in the system.
I've had to poke something in the bleeder holes before to get fluid flowing

This. I'd bet the holes on the caliper itself are blocked.
And the abs won't prevent your from bleeding, but the solenoid pack itself won't be bled until you actuate the solenoids while bleeding. It's a PITA.

Check the calipers, if needed, pull one off and see if fluid flows freely from the line then. If so, calipers are clogged.
 
they removed the bleeder completly, and nothing came out on the rear.Only a few drops in the front, i'm thinking the proportioning valve is bad or there's air in the system.

If they removed the bleeders and got no flow its not an issue of poking thru rust in the bleeder screw. I am confused about your "the pedal would not low down" statement. What are you trying to say here? the pedal goes way down? The pedal does not go down? Please try to reword this...
 
If they removed the bleeders and got no flow its not an issue of poking thru rust in the bleeder screw. I am confused about your "the pedal would not low down" statement. What are you trying to say here? the pedal goes way down? The pedal does not go down? Please try to reword this...
what i was trying to say is that the pedal behaves normally, even with the bleeder opened. i still have pressure. they did remove the bleeder and the fluid still wouldnt come out... there was no rust, it was very easy to remove. i'm leaned towards the proportioning valve being stuck
 
Crack a line at the valve. The pedal should go down. It has a blockage somewhere.
 
Thanks for the help guys, what i think is the weirdest part is that the fluid would not come out of any of the 4 bleeder, it would drop a little from the front, which makes me think the clog might be before the fluid gets to the proportion valve. But i'll clean every fitting i can find tommorrow
 
Thanks for the help guys, what i think is the weirdest part is that the fluid would not come out of any of the 4 bleeder, it would drop a little from the front, which makes me think the clog might be before the fluid gets to the proportion valve. But i'll clean every fitting i can find tommorrow
I don't think it's weird at all. I just did a brake job on a ford and the rubber lines were so bad they kept the brakes applied HARD. Same issue, No fluid. Replaced the lines, no more problem.
 
Take a blow gun, open a bleeder valve and blow high pressure air back through the proportioning valve, sounds like its slammed shut possibly.
 
If none would bleed fluid when cracked, I'll go with a faulty bias valve or rusted ports.

Still recommend picking at the ports of the calipers or compressed air back-blowing them.
 
Thanks guys, here is an update: i took the car to another shop, and they managed to bleed the drivers side, front and rear. but there was still no brake fluid coming out of the bleeders on the passenger side, and also the brakes on that side are not working, front and rear, any ideas? as far as i know the proportional valve divides the brakes front and rear, and not by side. and the abs lines have fluid on them, we checked that. Any ideas? Anyway i left my car there so they could check the lines, i have no time or a lift to do that on my own right now
 
Well looks like my front passenger side brake hose was clogged, and the proportioning valve is clogged was well, so that explain why no fluid. the front problem is solved, but i will have to ride without a proportioning valve for a while, is there any real danger in that?
 
I was going to quote Paul, in the collapsed line thing. My old 67 Camaro did the same thing he talked about. It let fluid in but not back and kept my brakes applied. I had to crack the line at the cylinder to let the pressure off.
New line (well 2 new lines, both sides) and it is all good.
 
Well looks like my front passenger side brake hose was clogged, and the proportioning valve is clogged was well, so that explain why no fluid. the front problem is solved, but i will have to ride without a proportioning valve for a while, is there any real danger in that?
Did you really just ask that?
 
Did you really just ask that?
well its either that or leave the car in the garage for two months or so, because it takes a long time to shipp it to brazil, customs here are a pain in the ass unfortunately. I know what the valve does and obviously i wont be driving it hard or slamming the brakes while i wait for the new parts to arrive.
 
Good to hear that you figured the problem out but I would replace the Proportioning valve! Just so you have the right brake bias front to rear.
yes i will do that. we managed to join the lines with fittings and a little bending, but it's all reversible. just have to wait for the news parts to arrive. it's a lot easier to do the right thing when you have the parts available, which is not the case here :/ if i took my car to a mitsubishi dealership i'm pretty sure they would ask what brand is the car. we have zero oem car parts in stock, and the autoparts store only sell chinese crap so... yeah
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top