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1G I've designed 1g Bump Steer Correction Kits

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xloki77x

15+ Year Contributor
143
2
May 21, 2008
Tyngsboro, Massachusetts
Would there be any interest in a Bump Steer Correction kit for the 1g, very similar to the ones I've made for the Evo 1-3? I have made two kits: one that is used with an un-corrected roll center (standard ball joints) and one that is used with a corrected roll center (extended ball joints). The kits include:

- (2) New inner tie rods
- (2) 4130 TIG welded Tie Rod Tubes
- (2) Aurora 5/8"-18 4340, PTFE lined Spherical Bearings
- (2) Seals-It Rod End Boots
- (2) CUSTOM MITSUBISHI TAPERED Adjustable Roll Center Heim Adapters (Standard OR Raised Roll Center)
- All necessary hardware for install

The Corrected roll center kit (aftermarket ball joint):
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Welds on the tie rod tube:
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The "Un-Corrected" roll center kit close up (standard ball joint):
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The Corrected roll center kit close up:
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If there is sufficient interest in this and it is worth building them I will become a "Freelancing Vendor" and start a group buy. I wanted to post in this forum first to see if anyone would be interested in something like this. Let me know what you guys think!

Thanks,
Pete

Also, if anyone is interested in fully correcting the suspension geometry of their 1g/take FULL advantage of the bump steer kit, I can modify your lower control arms to accept replaceable and adjustable lower ball joints that correct your roll center.

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Thanks,
Pete M.
 
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I think you'll have plenty of interest. I never understood why there aren't more companies making control arms for our cars.

One reason only. Cheapass owners.
 
How about a price range?
If the cost is right I will be more than interested...:sneaky:
 
I am interested in anything that involves suspension and a great pice. Stupid question but what excatly does this improve? Links to any useful info. Also wouldn't that ball joint in the lca make contact with the hub? Any pictures of it on the car? Anyhow I'm totally interested.
 
Hi guys,

Price range would be $350-400 USD for my kit. Considering the AMS Bump Steer Kit for the Evo 7-10 is ~$500 and DOES NOT include tie rods (just heim joints, boots, studs, washers and adapter) I think that is a decent price. On top of that, I'm paying what everyone else would pay for all the materials because I'm not a business. Basically, I'm trying to make a quality product to fill a much needed gap in the 1g market place.

Originally, I had wanted to make a bump steer kit for me Evo 1 because I had adjusted the roll center (taller ball joints). Now as I've been daily driving my bone stock 1g, I cant help but scoff at the ridiculous amount of bump steer built in from the factory on these cars. It gets far worse with a lowered 1g as well. Have you ever noticed when going through a corner that if you hit even a small bump, with the wheel still turned, your car will tend to jolt in a different direction? As the suspension cycles, the path or arc followed by the outer tie rods in relation to the control arm and spindle are different. Since something has to give, there is a toe change (the wheels toe in or out) as the suspension moves up and down. This occurs every time the suspension moves.

While bumpsteer is a factory design flaw nearly every production based vehicle has to varying degrees, it becomes noticeable when the car is lowered or modified with other suspension improvements that make the car more responsive to steering input. Better tires also make bumpsteer more noticeable. When experienced, the car twitches or darts around on bumpy or undulating roads and can also be twitchy on heavy braking. The car might also pull to one side or another when braking.

[YOUTUBE]gKJAukSZRT0[/YOUTUBE]

I feel it everyday on the long right hand sweeper leaving work. You fix bump steer by moving the tie rod vertically up or down, depending on lower control angle. Therin lies the reason I have made two kits. When you lower the car and keep the stock sized ball joint the control arms SLOPE UP FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE CAR (highly exaggerated) : \ _ /
To rid bump steer with this suspension setup you would need to move the tie rod to the top side of the knuckle and be able to shim it up and down in small increments to find the point where there is zero toe change through the suspension cycle.
If you have (or want to have) an adjusted roll center (taller ball joints) then the lower control arm will be nearly HORIZONTAL or SLIGHTLY SLOPING UP INWARDS towards the CENTER OF THE CAR. The advantages of an adjusted roll center are many, the biggest advantage being that you restore or better the factory camber gain back into the suspension stroke. By changing the control arm angle you also need to change the arc of the tie rod or else you will have even worse bump steer than factory. The tie rod will now stay on the bottom side of the knuckle but still has to be adjusted to find sweet spot for zero toe change.

This is something EVERY 1g owner could benefit from.

Thanks,
Pete
 
also very interested. i understand how the toe changes as the suspenstion travels vertically. but i am unsure what these actually do to solve the issue.
 
Great idea. Everyone with a 1g who gives a crap how it (really) handles should be interested in this. Doing these mods to mine was a serious improvement. While it isn't flashy in any way, it does quietly get the job done.

Modding the stock C.A. is an affordable option and while the gram counters won't be impressed, $XXX.00 in track time is much more fun (and productive) than $XXX.00 tubular control arms.
 
also very interested. i understand how the toe changes as the suspenstion travels vertically. but i am unsure what these actually do to solve the issue.

The reason there is toe change is because the tie rod and the lower control arm do not travel in the same arc. This happens because the tie rod and lower control arm are different lengths and have different mounting points on the chassis. Being able to adjust the static height of the tie rod at the spindle allows you to correct the arc.

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I'd be very interested, and would be willing to send you a set of control arms to modify as well.

PM me or email me at my username at gmail.com and let me know how you'd like to do the transaction.
 
Hey Pete, as much as I love the idea and know that there will be some good interest from the road racers and autocrossers, this thread actually violates our vendor policy. We don't really allow members who are not Supporting Vendors to post market feedback threads where they're gauging interest. We also only allow group buys to be posted in Vendor forum, so a Freelancer member isn't actually able to organize group buys in the forums. Basically, in order to do this the way you're thinking, we'd have to make you a Supporting Vendor, at least for a short period of time.

Believe me, I'm willing to help anyone who wants to bring good products to market, we just need to do it in a way that fits within the guidelines of the site so that it's fair to our existing Supporting Vendors and doesn't open the door for everyone to flood the forum with offers by people who turn out to be uncommitted to actually following through and making things happen - we've had a number of those, and it's the main reason we don't allow anyone but committed Supporting Vendors organize and run group buys via the vendor forum.

I understand you're not looking to make a huge profit on these or anything, and I'm not trying to discourage innovation and good will. Again, we just need to find a creative way to make it work within the structure of the site. Let's talk about it more privately if you're serious about committing to making these available.
 
Hey @99gst_racer - any chance you could make kits like these available for the 1g crowd? I can't find a parts list but hopefully someone can chime in and give some info on that. Not sure if @xloki77x is still in the DSM world or not, or would be willing to share. But I know of at least one member asking about kits like this (@theamsoilguy ).
 
Hey @99gst_racer - any chance you could make kits like these available for the 1g crowd? I can't find a parts list but hopefully someone can chime in and give some info on that. Not sure if @xloki77x is still in the DSM world or not, or would be willing to share. But I know of at least one member asking about kits like this (@theamsoilguy ).
I'd be happy to look into it. If I can source an off-the-shelf tapered stud, it sure would help speed up the project and bring costs way down.

Does anybody know the thread on the 1G inner tie rod?
 
I believe it is M14x1.5.

I used the following part for the bump steer kit I made: Allstar ALL56280
https://allstarperformance.com/bump-steer-kit-all56280/
The stud wasn't as long as I was hoping and I haven't actually measured bump steer with a gauge, so I don't have any info regarding that. Hopefully this helps.

I'd be happy to look into it. If I can source an off-the-shelf tapered stud, it sure would help speed up the project and bring costs way down.

Does anybody know the thread on the 1G inner tie rod?
 
I just checked my old inner tie rods and the thread on mine is 14x1.5.

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Just to chime in here @Ludachris but my V1 Bumpsteer kit works on a 1G since the 1G and 2G use the same outer tie rod end. It just connects in upside down, some chap from taiwan bought a kit from me for his friends 1G and its working as it should.

Im currently looking into a V2 version with a completely new kit with inner tie rods and redesigned knuckle shaft (all custom made)

So if anyones interested i can perhaps help out with my V1 kit.
 
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