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ECMlink First time tuning with link, need a little help.

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Re: above - Would a valid test for phantom knock resulting from the wiring or bad sensor be to just remove the sensor from the block and leave it plugged in while running? I know that wouldn't rule out other engine noises but as far as identifying signal contamination in the harness would that help? Is that even a cause for phantom knock? I never got knock except under load, I don't think mine is phantom...
Did you ever do the test? Is it real knock or???
 
Not enough inputs for 4 in the current version of Link, unless you switched the WB's signal before the input in the ECU. You would/should be able to see them one at a time, I am speculating.
 
Innovate has the dual wideband gauge kits (two wide bands, one gauge) intended for v8’s for Bank 1 and 2... So I know I could get two of those, but idk how I’d go about logging.
Kinda interested in individual cylinder tuning and was curious if it’s possible with link I’d give it a go.
 
Hey so I have been really busy lately and haven't had much time to mess with the car or post, but I have a bunch to post. I decided to go speed density because after a lot of reading it just seems to make more sense. I have it dialed in pretty well, I think. Cruise and idle are great, but I still cant get more than 7 degrees up top without knock, even with the boost turned down to 18. I tried adding fuel to get timing back, but if i try to run 10.5 it breaks up and misfires in boost. So i have a snow performance stage 1 kit I'll be installing this weekend. I'll update with logs and stuff soon.
 
I couldn't get over 4* in my 92 auto car. Thought the knock sensor was reading "phantom" knock also so I set the threshold up high and the car ran great....for 1 pass, then melted the side of a piston and burned 2 valves. You may not be able to get more than 9 - 11 even with meth injection. I know I couldn't so I went to E85 and what a difference!
Now up top is more like 17*+
 
Ok that makes me feel a bit better. I had read that under 10* up top indicates a problem and generates more heat, so I've been trying to get it there. A lot of guys seem to think I should be able to run 10.8 at 10* on 91 Oct but I just cant seem to. Hopefully water/meth helps, my IATs get 130+ so it cant hurt.
 
Ok, so I have some logs, I have been following the "How To..." .pdf here:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-tune-a-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-with-no-maf.395564/ and it has seemed very straightforward, but I could use some pointers. In the attached log "First Pull" I am using the SD table generated by SD adjust - combinedft but with some massaging to smooth it out. It's super rich and it cuts out at high rpm super bad. The "SecondPull" file I made more table adjustments, still rich and cutting out. I came home and worked up the "Saturday" tune, I decided -37.9 global is too rich, and went to -38.3, and massaged the table a little bit, I just wanted to post before I go try more. Do these logs look like I'm going the right way? I'll post more after the drive. My biggest questions are,
1) What does the columns in the SD table represent? is it boost, or load? The values are different than the fuel and timing tables, at first I assumed it was load...
2) with SD, if I turn up the boost using my BCS, do I need to completely retune the SD table? In the .pdf, he says to turn it down before tuning WOT, and I don't see where he says to turn it back up haha.
3) If you look at the image, my WB has some crazy oscillations at high rpm, is that normal? It spikes from 10.2 to 11 and back, all in the same SD cell.
4) Could the cutting out be from the non recessed plugs? they should work at 18 psi gapped to .24 right? just too rich?
 

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Ok, I put the BPR7ES back in, and after fiddling with it I still get really bad misfiring/cutting out at 5500, no matter what. I was really rich, so I worked on the VE table to get it close, I was getting there but still cutting out a bunch. very little or no knock though. I got it leaned out more with the VE table, but there were still the weird spikes where boost peaks and the WGS starts cycling,(This is the "I Need Help" log) and it spikes to pretty lean, this freaked me out so I figured I'd put the truboost setting back to where it was for 20 psi, (I had turned it down as per the above mentioned .pdf) and the AFR spikes are gone, but I'm a bit lean (compared to target, I'm under 11 all the way up) So that answers my question about re-tuning for changes at my WGS. :) So, in the final log of the night (I Need More Help) I still can't get past 5500 ish unless I stay in it through some nasty bucking/misfire action. IATs wee good on this last pull, too, I feel like it should be running fine at 10.7 and 6 degrees even if it is a bit off target... At this point I'd kill for my 1-2 deg of knock pulls from before I went SD. haha. I can't figure out where this bucking came from, it never did this on the maf... Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I start testing ignition stuff? I have a fairly new PTU and the sparktech COP thing seems ok, never misfires in cruise or anything, and I can hit 6-7k at low boost no problem. Cruise and idle seem perfect. I'm so lost.
 

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A couple of things. The lean spikes could be misfires. It's not really lean but the computer sees it that way. People appear to have more success with the BR7ES plugs, not the BPR. You might want to try the 2g stock timing map and see how it feels with the boost down a little. Hope that helps.
 
I'm gonna try to get a stock coil and wires to test, I don't have the originals. I'm gonna clean the spring contacts in the cop setup too. I know these sparktechs aren't great but it has always worked ok, and I can still rev out at low boost/leaner afrs so I think maybe it's just getting soaked above 5500 (cant really tell because of the spikes) I think the lean spikes are misfires, I guess it would see all that unburned charge air oxygen in the exhaust and see it as lean, I was kinda hoping that. I have a new VE table to try and at least get on target before I start disassembling. I'll post another log after I test.
 
Its the COP causing the misfires, its doing it under higher boost because its weaker than the stock coils and its blowing out the spark. You can try tightening your plug gap too down to .020 but your COP is aesthetics and is causing your problem.

See if a local DSMer friend has a coil pack/plug wires you can borrow for testing.

I opened your tune expecting a mess but the tune looks fine. If I thought it was the tune I would have made a recommendation but Ive seen dozens of DSMs that go COP and they cant run much more than wastegate psi before they get blowout and going back to the stock ignition fixes it.
 
I'm gonna ditch the cop, I always knew I would end up having to, I just hoped it would last a bit longer down the upgrade path haha. Looking for a used coil but I'll probably have to buy one. I got it a lot better by pulling a little fuel out of maxoct and getting my afrs closer. But it's still missing intermittently so bye-bye sparktech!
 
Well I have a coil to change to, I'll do that this weekend. One thing... I turned my boost controller off to see if it would still misfire and it happens at 5k WOT with 7 psi, but I can carry 16 psi at part throttle til 7k (in open loop) which seems weird. Does that sound like a coil issue? I'm starting to think I have a bigger issue. Gonna start at a comp test and go from there.
 
Well she died on me on the way home. Full o sublime sounding misfire. I'm throwing g my buddy's COP setup that runs good on his car on it, praying it's not the cas or something serious.
 
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