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2G Won’t fire

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MrPunker

5+ Year Contributor
40
1
Jan 17, 2018
Davie, Florida
I had gotten my car back from have the transmission finally rebuilt after 20yrs of loyal service(not all mine) on a Thursday morning, and the next night I was out running around with my car crew, I heard a slight banging type noise(thought it was one of my led underglow lights) checked everything and everything seemed fine except when I revved the engine. So I parked and let it cool down for a few minutes. Went to move to a gas station that was open and in the process the engine started jerking the whole car, died once then got it running again and then died again and now will not completely turn over. So far I’ve checked the ignition coil and replaced it. Still nothing. Checked the timing belt. It’s a little loose but still intacted. Haven’t had time to check anything else out yet. Can anyone offer me some ideas as to what it could be. 99 eclipse spyder gs 2.4L 4g63 motor, automatic
 
when you say "will not completely turn over", do you mean it cranks okay but doesn't fire up? like no combustion in the cylinders? or it has problems cranking?
 
Checked the timing belt. It’s a little loose but still intacted. Haven’t had time to check anything else out yet. Can anyone offer me some ideas as to what it could be. 99 eclipse spyder gs 2.4L 4g63 motor, automatic
You should verify mechanical timing, a loose timing belt is never a good sign.
Yeah because my maf sensor doesn’t work and I have to leave it unplugged to drive
Why are you even driving the car without a functional MAF? The car needs to be parked and gone through mechanically and anything needing attention tended to.

I would suggest checking mechanical timing FIRST. if the timing hasn't jumped, check for spark, fuel and compression. Also, get a working MAF before even attempting to start the car again of all the above points come back with good results.

Imho, it sounds like it may have skipped time.
 
You should verify mechanical timing, a loose timing belt is never a good sign.

Why are you even driving the car without a functional MAF? The car needs to be parked and gone through mechanically and anything needing attention tended to.

I would suggest checking mechanical timing FIRST. if the timing hasn't jumped, check for spark, fuel and compression. Also, get a working MAF before even attempting to start the car again of all the above points come back with good results.

Imho, it sounds like it may have skipped time.
Maf sensor’s 1: I’ve had somewhat of a difficult time finding for my motor 2: are damn expensive LOL. My car runs normalishhh with it unplugged I just burn through gas. But that’s not the issue I need to face at the moment.

Skipped timing? How can that be fixed?

The loose timing belt will get replaced. I work with an extremely limited budget so this is going to take a moment to fix.
 
Maf sensor’s 1: I’ve had somewhat of a difficult time finding for my motor 2: are damn expensive LOL. My car runs normalishhh with it unplugged I just burn through gas. But that’s not the issue I need to face at the moment.

Skipped timing? How can that be fixed?

The loose timing belt will get replaced. I work with an extremely limited budget so this is going to take a moment to fix.

Bigger issue than just replacing the belt, you need to see if the valves are bent. If the belt skipped teeth, then it may have caused the valves to meet the pistons, unfriendly-like. You'll need to re-time the motor if this is the case and see if you have any compression leaking from the cylinder through valve seats etc. A simpler way is to look down the spark plug hole with a bore-scope and look for valve marks on top of the piston.

If this has happened, the head needs to be rebuilt at a minimum, and deeper work (pistons replaced etc) if the valve contact was severe enough.

Also, if you were running extremely rich, it's possible you hydro-locked the engine, which means: new/rebuilt engine.

You have some serious investigation ahead of you, hopefully it's not too serious, but you'll have to start checking things before moving forward.

If you need a maf, I have a few 2g style mafs around, not sure if the GS Spyder is the same, I thought it was. If you need one lmk. Otherwise they can be found at a junkyard relatively easily and cost effectively.
 
Bigger issue than just replacing the belt, you need to see if the valves are bent. If the belt skipped teeth, then it may have caused the valves to meet the pistons, unfriendly-like. You'll need to re-time the motor if this is the case and see if you have any compression leaking from the cylinder through valve seats etc. A simpler way is to look down the spark plug hole with a bore-scope and look for valve marks on top of the piston.

If this has happened, the head needs to be rebuilt at a minimum, and deeper work (pistons replaced etc) if the valve contact was severe enough.

Also, if you were running extremely rich, it's possible you hydro-locked the engine, which means: new/rebuilt engine.

You have some serious investigation ahead of you, hopefully it's not too serious, but you'll have to start checking things before moving forward.

If you need a maf, I have a few 2g style mafs around, not sure if the GS Spyder is the same, I thought it was. If you need one lmk. Otherwise they can be found at a junkyard relatively easily and cost effectively.
I’m hoping it’s nothing internal (fingers crossed) I do know of a shop down here the specializes in my car which I am thinking of taking her to, to see if they can figure out what’s wrong. I know it will cost me a little bit but at least I know I will get a diagnosis and be able to figure out what my next steps will be.

I live in south Florida....I have picked through a lot of junkyards for parts for my car and it is damn near impossible. Every time I hear of one hitting a junkyard by the time I get to it, it’s stripped clean or the car is gone completely.
If it helps any. I have the 4g64 motor. Which the shop that specializes in my car told me as long as I keep up with the fluids and so forth that, that motor is virtually bulletproof and I can beat on it practically everyday and it’ll still keep going
 
It’s drivable with it unplugged, I just burn through gas more than I should. With it plugged in, whenever I’m at a dead stop and hit the gas. The motor gets bogged down and I have to stomp on the pedal a few times before it goes. A lot of people tell me “your car runs without it plugged in?” And I’m like yup. But I have more important issues that need fixed first.

I’m going to pull the crank sensor tomorrow and replace it. Just need to find it. If anyone can help me locate it LOL. I’m not used to major work like this. I’ve tried looking for a diagram for my cars motor but been difficult. 4g64 if anyone can help me figure this out. Thank you
 
Tested that. No power going from the ignition coil to the plugs even after replacing the coil with a brand new one.
 
How would I check it? Just pulled it out
How many wires is it? I'm looking online at the 2.4l and if it is a 4 wire the black/white wire is power and the solid black is ground. You could check to see if it is getting any incoming power on the electrical connector. The two middle white/red and black/red are the wires powering your ignition coils.
 
Ok thanks. I’ll check it out later. My one day off and I’m going to make some extra cash to help get my pain in the ass back on the road:banghead::dsm::p
 
Ok so I still haven’t gotten her running yet. Time and money are my issues but I have decided that I am making her my project car and will start building it hopefully soon. My main concern is just getting her running so I can put her in storage somewhere safe while I save up the money to start getting parts and everything. But I will want suggestions on what I should do since this will be my first ever build.
 
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