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Bleakley

Proven Member
403
96
Jan 29, 2017
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
So Walbro / TI Automotive (and Aeromotive) has come out with a few new pumps since I’ve last looked. Well I was browsing and saving maps to my phone, and came across a Walbro “F90000295”

The F90000285 is the 525 and is a badass pump. Well the 295 is even badder. Where can we find these pumps?? This thing flows 40-60 more Liters per Hour than a 525 or even an Aeromotive a1000 *@ 70-80psi.

Also wanted to add —> It’s obvious I do not own ANY of these charts or ANY of this data. All credit goes to the pump manufacturer(s). Aeromotive for the A1000, Walbro / TI Automotive for the others. It appears there’s a little disclaimer regarding sharing some of the info regarding the 295? Lol. I’ll just link you to JUST the disclaimer I’m talking about.

http://21h1yp1945ct18r0ws184hb2-wpe...p-content/uploads/2019/05/F90000295-flyer.pdf
 

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Also note, if any of you plan on buying a Walbro 255 (which a lot of us have or are going to).
They have an updated version that flows more for the same price.
Part #’s F20000312 and F20000313... Both are 255 high pressure pumps.
 
I got the TI 285 pump since I am going to have nitrous for the converter and never seen the 295 while I was browsing.
Interesting, as I just bought my Hellcat pump.
The 285 is supposed to have a much better check valve and flow 8% more and up to 112 lbs, what else did it say about the 295?
I am going to have to check into it now.....
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


https://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/w-f90000285.htm

I notice the 295 has no internal check valve. Looks sweet and I thought I had found the best....:ohdamn:
 
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Wow that "F90000285" flows 9 more GPM at 80 PSI and 19 more GPM at 90 then the 450! The 450 supplies everything I need right now abut that is tempting.

The "F90000295” flows 30 more GPM at 80 and 40 more at 90 PSi... WOW that is one beast of a pump.
 
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Yeah. If you’re not running a parallel setup I don’t REALLY see the need for a check valve (though that’s not to say some might find it a NICE thing to have).
Anyone running an Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator is gonna have bleed down issues ANYWAY. If anyone has actually looked at how that thing seals internally will see right away it’s not something that was worried about. Lol.

Idk what turbo you’re running Marty, but that 525 will get you FAR man. Should flow 1000/1050cc injectors and still have left over.
If someone had 1300’s, the 295 would be a perfect match for those with plenty left over.
 
I was just on extreme psi's site and saw the 525, I was going to post up and see if anyone is running it but I guess so. I was looking at going to a 450 from my dual 255 set up since my pumps are almost 8 years old now. What's everyone's opinion on what pump to run, the 525, 450 or this 295?
 
If you can FIND the 295, it looks like a wonderful pump. I thought my 90000285 was the best around, so I bought it. Check Summit for their price before buying one. I think they were considerably lower than the vendor (which I like to support, but money is money) that I got mine from. Mine isn't installed yet, as the motor is JUST about ready to drop in, then I will replace my 255 with the 525 and let everyone know how I like it.
 
I've been running the 525 for a little bit. It's virtually the same pump as the 450...just flows a little more. No size or sound differences. Everything has been fine.
 
If you can FIND the 295, it looks like a wonderful pump. I thought my 90000285 was the best around, so I bought it. Check Summit for their price before buying one. I think they were considerably lower than the vendor (which I like to support, but money is money) that I got mine from. Mine isn't installed yet, as the motor is JUST about ready to drop in, then I will replace my 255 with the 525 and let everyone know how I like it.
I’ve talked with Marty a little in the DM’s / PM’s.
Is there anyway someone (some vendor) can look into this for us. Get this thing to market. I know ExtremePSI, MAperformance, etc. guys (and/or gals) float the forums here and there.
Whole purpose of this thread was not only to raise awareness (If I didn’t know about something I’m sure there are others who didn’t know either, which is proving very true), but to also see if someone already knows who we are currently able to go to in order to purchase this for our cars.
And if there’s no place selling these (and I want to say first idk what it takes to sell things / have no experience in that area), would it be possible to maybe try and start selling these. With our platform having so much depth in the racing industry I can not imagine people not wanting to purchase these.
 
I would bet that one/some of our Vendors are checking into it, very glad you brought it to light!
Pissed I couldn't have gotten one for just a few more bucks probably......:idontknow: :ohdamn: :)
 
I'm about to update my fuel lines and i wanted to change the fuel pumps too(tank&inline), so after i've seen this new pump on extremepsi I was set on getting one. I wanted to go with 295 but I'm wandering how bad is to have a fuel pump without check valve?
 
Yeah, that’s crazy. When I looked nobody had this fuel pump yet.
F***ing awesome ExtremePSI has it and we know we’re getting a genuine product for a decent price.

Answering your question @suspektu, Both the 525 and 295 are one and done pumps for the major majority of us.
525 flows ID1050X’s w/ good margin of safety
F90000295 flows ID1300’s w/ good margin of safety

The no check valve def has the pros and cons. Idk if you know, and for others who may not know... the check valve only allows flow in one direction. When pump is on it’s pushing fuel to the rail. When pump is turned off, the pump is no longer pushing fuel. The fuel, under pressure, is going to start going to those areas of lower pressure (behind the pump and after the regulator). With a check valve the fluid is prevented from flowing back towards the pump. Again, being a one-way valve, it completely seals off / isolates the fluid from pushing back through the pump. Only place it can push against now is the regulator. If the regulator has a tight seal, that pressurized fluid will sit there at that pressure virtually indefinitely.
This is where quick restarts / reduced emissions come in.

My opinions on check valve vs no check valve... which others can feel free to weigh in on...
(This is by no means an all-inclusive list)

Pros of check valve:
Quick restarts, reduced emissions, no raw fuel issues (regards to cylinder washdown, sensors, catalytic converters, and fuel/oil contamination -> worse with e85)
Pros of NOT having a check valve:
Good fuel system and good engine will have no issues starting quickly. The extra couple cranks IS nice for guaranteeing adequate oil pressure on startup.
 
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@Bleakley nice reply :thumb:
I like the flow of 295(535lph@40psi) vs 525/285(470lph@40psi). The difference in flow between 450 and 525/285 is 20lph, so i'm not sure it worth paying 40$ extra. On the other hand 295 vs 285 is only 10$ difference so if i would choose to go with new 525 pump i would go for 295 but for 600whp range i think walbro 450 will be the best option.
 
amsrn (@SasaniFab) was running out of pump @ ~650whp on the 450 on E.
I would buy the 525 for a little more room. If it makes sense to you, at that point to go with the 295, then so be it.

I think anyone looking at going 450 should probably just go 525 and call it a day (just like @1990TSIAWDTALON did).
I like the 525 pump for a LOT of reasons. Fantastic piece of hardware at a great price man.
 
Old thread but we built up the “535” so I figured I would post here since it’s directly related to the pump.

Had a race weekend recently and was going down the track when it went lean and I got out. Added fuel in the back end and went another run but wouldn’t get into boost. Took a look and it had detonated badly and took a plug with it. Replaced plugs and went again because I didn’t see the pressure drop… oops

Looking at the log, my fuel pressure drops from ~70+psi down to 40psi when I was still WOT at 36 psi which is when the car went lean and detonated, happened in two separate pulls.

Anyone have issues with the pump dropping pressure at higher boost? FPR has newer diaphragm so I am doubting it’s that.

Pump does seem louder now but could be just because I am looking for the problem. I know these pumps can go at anytime but just seems weird it only drops/has issues at higher boost.
 
It’s funny. I haven’t been on this forum in like 1.5 years? 2 years. Jeez it’s been awhile. Got a notification for this thread.

Referencing your profile. And I hope someone else can hop in to backcheck all this / put there $0.02 in.
But here’s my 2 cents. Do with it what you will.
I’m not so familiar with hp level of 82HTA. But you’re over 35/36psi boost (that’s 80psi on the pump w/ 3 bar base pressure) AND you’re on e85 w/ nitrous
The 525 I think is running out somewhere around that 725whp mark.The dual 525 series setup is pretty much guaranteed, safe 900whp capable.

If you’re having worries of your pump, pull your return off.
Make sure you have a lot of fuel in the tank to keep the pump cool when you do this. That pump is going to get toasty. Trust me.
Put a line onto regulator and into a bucket or gas jug. Set ECU to pump @ 100% and adjust regulator until you’re @ ~80-85psi rail pressure.
When you are ready. Set a timer and pump fuel into your jug for 30 seconds to 1 minute. I would repeat this test 2-3 times for accuracy. Unless in the 1st run it’s just obvious something is f***ed.
The 525 chart shows ~290lph @ 80psi (divide by 60 = 4.8333L/min.)
Leave 10 minutes between each test. This is giving the pump ample time to cool and should give you reliable results.

Also 3/8” , 0.375” (-6AN) line size suggests ~800-850 max whp capable.

What is the fuel filter situation looking like??? There will be a decent pressure drop across the filter on a -6AN setup depending on the filter. You don’t notice it at the rail, but it’s all happening at the pump. You’re seeing 80-85 rail pressure, pump pressure will always be higher, but restrictions determine how much higher.
This could be enough to knock you off depending on how much you’re flowing.


That test should allow you to gather the data you need to make your decision on what to do with the fuel system.
 
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It’s funny. I haven’t been on this forum in like 1.5 years? 2 years. Jeez it’s been awhile. Got a notification for this thread.

Referencing your profile. And I hope someone else can hop in to backcheck all this / put there $0.02 in.
But here’s my 2 cents. Do with it what you will.
I’m not so familiar with hp level of 82HTA. But you’re over 35/36psi boost (that’s 80psi on the pump w/ 3 bar base pressure) AND you’re on e85 w/ nitrous
The 525 I think is running out somewhere around that 725whp mark.The dual 525 series setup is pretty much guaranteed, safe 900whp capable.

If you’re having worries of your pump, pull your return off.
Make sure you have a lot of fuel in the tank to keep the pump cool when you do this. That pump is going to get toasty. Trust me.
Put a line onto regulator and into a bucket or gas jug. Set ECU to pump @ 100% and adjust regulator until you’re @ ~80-85psi rail pressure.
When you are ready. Set a timer and pump fuel into your jug for 30 seconds to 1 minute. I would repeat this test 2-3 times for accuracy. Unless in the 1st run it’s just obvious something is f***ed.
The 525 chart shows ~290lph @ 80psi (divide by 60 = 4.8333L/min.)
Leave 10 minutes between each test. This is giving the pump ample time to cool and should give you reliable results.

Also 3/8” , 0.375” (-6AN) line size suggests ~800-850 max whp capable.

What is the fuel filter situation looking like??? There will be a decent pressure drop across the filter on a -6AN setup depending on the filter. You don’t notice it at the rail, but it’s all happening at the pump. You’re seeing 80-85 rail pressure, pump pressure will always be higher, but restrictions determine how much higher.
This could be enough to knock you off depending on how much you’re flowing.


That test should allow you to gather the data you need to make your decision on what to do with the fuel system.
Wow awesome response! I am going to have to do a test like that to figure out what’s going on. I am also on -8an feed line now, must have forgotten to update that.

Debating buying a new 525 and feeding a in-line Aeromotive A1000 on a hobb switch to trip a relay to activate at like 15 psi. You like the dual 525s in parallel more than a series setup?
 
When you do the test, you’re probably going to have to plumb an air compressor or some other means of getting pressure on top of regulator diaphragm. When I do my tests I leave the fuel regulator alone / wherever I have it set and just adjust the regulator on my air compressor. That’s the best way of doing it imho. (I also use an old brass manual boost controller cause it has a tiny bleed hole drilled into the T. I just do it this way so if I accidentally overshoot PSI target it’s bleeding at a slow rate I have the ability to adjust regulator on air compressor and it’ll come down a little bit to where I want to be) Like, for example. If you have an Aeromotive unit like I did the max rating for base PSI is 75psi. Which means after 75psi you need some means of putting pressure on top the diaphragm.

No. My favorite setup by FAR is 525 w/ 525 inline. (Series setup)
I think it’s arguably one of the best setups out there. Especially for the money.

Edit: no need to pay for the a1000 unless you already have one. The flow increase for the money is terrible over the 525. Money is better spent elsewhere —> 100%.
 
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When you do the test, you’re probably going to have to plumb an air compressor or some other means of getting pressure on top of regulator diaphragm. When I do my tests I leave the fuel regulator alone / wherever I have it set and just adjust the regulator on my air compressor. That’s the best way of doing it imho. (I also use an old brass manual boost controller cause it has a tiny bleed hole drilled into the T. I just do it this way so if I accidentally overshoot PSI target it’s bleeding at a slow rate I have the ability to adjust regulator on air compressor and it’ll come down a little bit to where I want to be) Like, for example. If you have an Aeromotive unit like I did the max rating for base PSI is 75psi. Which means after 75psi you need some means of putting pressure on top the diaphragm.

No. My favorite setup by FAR is 525 w/ 525 inline. (Series setup)
I think it’s arguably one of the best setups out there. Especially for the money.

Edit: no need to pay for the a1000 unless you already have one. The flow increase for the money is terrible over the 525. Money is better spent elsewhere —> 100%.
Thanks a ton man! I am just going to toss a new 525 in-tank and 525 in-line along a better FPR (currently have a 10 year old compact Aeromotive) and see how it does!
 
I'm watching along as I am running a single 525 in all 3 of my DSMs.
Good thread guys. :thumb:
 
Hi guys. Got a notification from this thread, too.
Since the post i had in this thread, I got 525/285 fuel pump. Before putting the pump back in tank I wanted to see if the Mitsubishi/Toyota new type o-ring is leaking or not together with new welded AN fittings. I used the FPR and some old AN hoses and went up to about 85-90 psi without any leaks, so I can say this type of o-ring is doing a great job compared to the original o-ring solution which is prone to leak on high pressure.
If you want, you can test your pump outside the tank to see exactly what's going on, if is not so much trouble for you and install this type of o-ring if you still have the original pump fitting and haven't done it already.
 
Hi guys. Got a notification from this thread, too.
Since the post i had in this thread, I got 525/285 fuel pump. Before putting the pump back in tank I wanted to see if the Mitsubishi/Toyota new type o-ring is leaking or not together with new welded AN fittings. I used the FPR and some old AN hoses and went up to about 85-90 psi without any leaks, so I can say this type of o-ring is doing a great job compared to the original o-ring solution which is prone to leak on high pressure.
If you want, you can test your pump outside the tank to see exactly what's going on, if is not so much trouble for you and install this type of o-ring if you still have the original pump fitting and haven't done it already.
I run a the bulkhead fitting so no o-ring, there’s still a possibility that the hose inside the pump is leaking but those were cranked fairly tight.
 
So quick question, what is the part number for the 525 in-line fuel pump?

I had twin in-tank 255's and twin in-line 255's before, I am changing them out for 90000285 twin in-tank and want to upgrade my in-line fuel pumps as well.

I am only seeing a Walbro GS396 that is 350lph.
 
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