rEclipserGST
Supporting Member
- 1,700
- 55
- Nov 17, 2007
-
Columbus,
Ohio
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
BLT to 25 psi. No vac leaks. Exhaust is open under the o2 housing. Just for now, not permanent.
2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
5*
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK, 4 years?
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK copper .22 gap
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: above 160
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:
6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:
Throttle Cable:
TPS:
BISS:
7). Compression ratio
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:
11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5 psi
Injector Size (cc/min): 1100 injectors
12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: lc-1
Calibration Date:
13). Type of fuel
Type: 93
Percent of Ethanol: 10%?
14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
No noob here.
Motor is tuned already. Just swapped to an awd auto. From a 95 auto gst.
Car will fire right up after cranking. It will idle all day long. The issue is once I put it in gear (Reverse, Drive, 1st, 2nd.) It will die. I was able to keep it idling in gear ONE TIME, with no brake pressure applied. Just the E-brake up, RPM's were around 200.
I actually drove this car a full 3 miles BEFORE THESE CURRENT SYMPTOMS. Blew a coupler on the way back. I BLT since. Fixed couplers & leaks.
I have a few suggestions saying it could be the Torque Converter.
Now, I did prematurely drive the car around my neighborhood, one block, and back home. I wanted to recheck tire pressure. & found the car was 4 quarts low. It was recently rebuilt by a friend.
Now before I tear the car apart, i figured a log can say a million words. But I wish i had a video as well. Regardless, everytime i place it into gear, it stalls out & dies now.
BLT to 25 psi. No vac leaks. Exhaust is open under the o2 housing. Just for now, not permanent.
2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
5*
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK, 4 years?
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK copper .22 gap
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: above 160
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:
6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:
Throttle Cable:
TPS:
BISS:
7). Compression ratio
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:
11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5 psi
Injector Size (cc/min): 1100 injectors
12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: lc-1
Calibration Date:
13). Type of fuel
Type: 93
Percent of Ethanol: 10%?
14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
No noob here.
Motor is tuned already. Just swapped to an awd auto. From a 95 auto gst.
Car will fire right up after cranking. It will idle all day long. The issue is once I put it in gear (Reverse, Drive, 1st, 2nd.) It will die. I was able to keep it idling in gear ONE TIME, with no brake pressure applied. Just the E-brake up, RPM's were around 200.
I actually drove this car a full 3 miles BEFORE THESE CURRENT SYMPTOMS. Blew a coupler on the way back. I BLT since. Fixed couplers & leaks.
I have a few suggestions saying it could be the Torque Converter.
Now, I did prematurely drive the car around my neighborhood, one block, and back home. I wanted to recheck tire pressure. & found the car was 4 quarts low. It was recently rebuilt by a friend.
Now before I tear the car apart, i figured a log can say a million words. But I wish i had a video as well. Regardless, everytime i place it into gear, it stalls out & dies now.
