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I’ve always run NGK wires and have never had a problem at 37 psi. I tried some Taylor Thunderbolt wires once and the car ran like crap so I swapped the NGKs back in and never looked back, surprised to see people having an issue with them.
 
You are at least following a path and maybe need to do some temporary altering of the load scale to blend with the 160,170,180 etc....but I am not an expert on Evoscan. Just trying to think outside of the box!

Thanks again, I found some interesting anomolies that may require some in depth evoscan/ecufllash knowledge, which i will post shortly.

Just my opinion you target AFR is really rich all over the map. Im not saying thats your problem but it cant help. Do you have any way to datalog AFR?

I'm working on logging AFR, it should log but i have to get my settings right.... i think

I tune my car with the same software setup. Your AFR is way too rich and you need to pull fuel. Also gap your plugs to around 0.25. You also need to check the fuel cut limiter and see if your using the 318% or the 632% load. Either or you shouldnt be hitting it at 10 psi.

Thanks, I'll be changing a few things AFR related soon hopefully. As for the fuel cut limiter, i am not sure what you mean about 318% or 632%. I feel like i am missing something.... check my next post to see some interesting info.


Do you log knock and are you getting high knock readings going into boost? Knock or phantom knock will cause these same problems. Especially with a 1g cas into a 2g ecu. Just a thought.... In ecmlink you can ignore knock below your set rpm to deal with this issue. I don't know how it is dealt with using ecuflash and Evo scan. I thought there was a sensitivity adjustment you could modify.

I do log knock and have it tuned out right now by way of lowered timing and of course added fuel. But strange things are afoot at the circle K.... check out below
 
So, here is a couple pics to show some irregularities. I am off to work but i will be doing more some research on Ceddy .
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mods, tephra mods, etc...

So, this is a bit confounding but here goes. If I was to modify the cells in blue on the large map, then the blue outlined cells of another map are automatically altered as well. For example, if i alter the BIg Map, it in turn alters MAP #2 in unrelated areas. Same is true for MAP#1. I alter cells in 160-180 column and this results in BIgMap having altered cells in the 100-120 columns.

Not sure what i am missing here but it is the same with the ignition maps.

now check this out

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If you look above, you can see that from the 140 load column to the 160 load column, it appears that the interpolated calculation for AFR has gone from 10.** to 0.0. Not sure what to make of that yet.

Well gotta go for now. Happy tuning and thanks for all the input so far.
 
Work on dialing in your MAF correction or VE map first, that's the first thing I would do, WB02 feedback should equal commanded AFR
Personally I would simply your life and what you're looking at by not using big maps until you are into big map territory.
Simplify your AFR map instead of all that gradual interpolation, use 1 or .5 steps, clean up the AFR map, it gets interpolated automatically
Things shift so fast on the AFR map it ends up flying through most those cells anyways
Let the ECM shoot for a more static AFR so that you can use your WBO2 to dial in the tune to hit that target, moving targets are harder to hit
You can change your AFR Map later after the MAF or VE are dialed in and do final tweaking
As for the multiple AFR Maps, if you are using big maps just use "big maps", if you're using standard maps just use standard maps.
 
I first say I am not a Evoacan guy and no nothing but if you follow along the path of your tune in the pictures, in post 27,the top box needs leaned out in your highlighted area to blend with the end numbers so lower them. Hi octane 1 looks like it needs 12ish and Hi octane "Looks" like it needs to have either a higher number and test or a lower number and test. These observations are just from the map and specifically the highlighted areas you show.
I am just winging what I would do if I could alter it. Make sure if anything is worse to change it back and maybe go the other direction but save what you have now as a resort.
 
I Dont remember if your using a maf or SD but, If your using SD you need to be following load to know where to change your VE. If you are using a maf you need to change your maf scaling to adjust fuel. Log Airflow hz to add fuel to the corresponding HZ. Adding increases fuel, subtracting decreases fuel.
 
so, things have changed slightly. Stillrunning, it was a good idea to change to the small map rom, when i did the car would rev over 5k to 7k no problem. But now it had a problem getting there. AFR's were all over the place and accel was inconsistant and jerky. I figured that i could tune it out but had to quit and do something else.
A couple days later, my family and I were headed across the border and wanted to take the spyder so I quicklyflashed the altered bigmap rom in and just figured I'd keep it below 5K rpm since it was a nice day to just cruise and chill.
Funny thing is, car ran perfectly all day so i pushed it passed 5k to test and no problems, I even ran it up to 7k rpm a couple times just to be sure.
Now I'm wondering if the fact that I fueled up across the border may have been what helped me out. I have heard that American gas seems to be be better than ours in Canada. I filled up at Super Duper Gas station so I didn't expect much but the jury is still out on this one. Once I run out of fuel I'll try the Canadian fuel I usually use and see how she reacts to that.
 
Your the exception then, definitely not the norm.
This is the norm.

Every car I tune can see 35-40psi depending on set up with a stock ignition and NGK or similar wires before we see an issue.

My POS last year was on AUTOZONE wires (lifetime warranty- have not bought a new set of wires since 2003 LOL) and NGK copper plugs. Worked up to 44psi before I had trouble with blow out- 870whp. 160mph trap speeds. All set ups are different though.

I dont know what the problem with your car is, but it ain't the wires. It seems like you have it figured out, but If you or anyone experiencing a similar issues wants a sanity check

1) Does it rev to redline in neutral without issue?

2) If so, take it on the street, and drive it to redline in 1st, and 2nd, with low load (no boost)

If you have the miss at the same RPMs in these situations, its obviously some setting your overlooking.

if you DONT, its the tune. Call a real Tuna. ;)

Good luck
 
Just a couple weeks ago I saw a post by motomatt about the ngk wires. I walked out the door and put in the some old Taylor (?) wires and the car ran noticeably smoother. NGKs only had 3k on them. It was exactly as described in his post. Not saying they're all bad but I won't be running them again.
Exactly.
 
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