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1G Another engine build, more problems

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So the story goes my customer purchased a used race motor and installed it into his car despite my warning. After getting it in and checking the compression he realized something was wrong. The best # he got was 120 in number 3 the rest were down to. The block came to me and I tore it apart. The block has 020 over Wiseco hd pistons and the eagle crank and rods with the upgraded arp hardware. The rings were gapped accordingly, and ptw was over .004. For the record the head was in perfect shape. What I did find was very tiny vertical scratches in each of the bores, enough to catch a finger nail. I also noticed that the main bearing have a blueish coloration to them. Is this normal bearing wear? The crank is in perfect shape. What you guys think? He brought the block to the machinist to see if it could be honed out. The machinist said he was able to get them out within spec. I plan on remeasuring when I get the block back
 

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Now that you are already there you might as well just replace all the bearings. There is no sense in leaving those in with a used motor. It is better to be safe than sorry, imagine putting the motor back together to then find out you need to replace the bearings later.
 
Now that you are already there you might as well just replace all the bearings. There is no sense in leaving those in with a used motor. It is better to be safe than sorry, imagine putting the motor back together to then find out you need to replace the bearings later.
Everything is being replaced.... I was just wondering if that discoloration is normal for king bearing.
 
Almost looks like fluid wash-out from really high pressure ok the mains? The witness marks follow flow path for higher pressure stuff. The main cap just looks burnt/dirty as hell.

As for the compression, I'd check the rings to make sure they de-burred them after setting the gap, wouldn't take much to gouge a cylinder wall.
 
Almost looks like fluid wash-out from really high pressure ok the mains? The witness marks follow flow path for higher pressure stuff. The main cap just looks burnt/dirty as hell.

As for the compression, I'd check the rings to make sure they de-burred them after setting the gap, wouldn't take much to gouge a cylinder wall.
This motor was making 8-900 hp running 8s in a mustang foxbody. The rings looked great. The motor looks like someone rushed getting the engine rebuilt and skimped on the hone and or cylinder wall finish in general
 
That color is from the thin low friction coating on the King bearings being worn away exposing the layer underneath the coating is all, as to why that layer is worn away is anyone's guess, high solvent levels in the oil can do that, but you need to see if there is actually notable bearing wear, if there isn't then its likely ok to use them if you wanted to.
 
That color is from the thin low friction coating on the King bearings being worn away exposing the layer underneath the coating is all, as to why that layer is worn away is anyone's guess, high solvent levels in the oil can do that, but you need to see if there is actually notable bearing wear, if there isn't then its likely ok to use them if you wanted to.
Thats what I thought......the crank is spotless. The block is coming back today so we’ll see if they did a good job
 
Little update.My customer brought the engine to a machinist for honing and Im still not happy with the bores. He purchased another block and he will be having it bored and decked. More to come
 
Following along.
 
Little update, machine work was completed finally on the new engine block. The build will consist of wiseco hd pistons , eagle hd rods with the 625 rod bolts, and a oem crank. The head is a standard oem build with aftermarket spriings and cams. The block was lined honed for a kiggly girdle....Apparently Everyone is completely out of stock of arp L19s head studs? This includes Magnus motorsports studs, im assuming they all use the same tool steel. More to come
 

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Engine is finished boys...... had an interesting little issue and I wonder if this has caused engine failure for some other people. Normally when I build an engine I disassemble the oil pump , acl .oem whatever and polish the gears and remove any sharp edges and then fill the cavity with oil before assembly. Sometimes they come oil sometimes they don’t. So I get the engine assembled without the belt on and spin the oil pump gear with a drill as I always do.... 0 oil pressure , nothing even in the oil filter. So I ripped everything apart and filled the pump completely with breakin lube and reassemble. Oil pressure is back...how many guys assemble the motor and just turn the key on and let the engine spin before firing it up without making sure there is actual oil pressure? If I fired up this motor without verifying oil pressure It would of spun a bearing for sure. My mistake was there to much air in the system and not enough oil and it couldn’t create enough suction at the pickup. Here she is boys
 
I packed with grease for two builds but when I leave the car sitting over winter I just start it up in the spring and pressure is there within a second. The only thing that exists in the pump before startup is just a film of oil on the gears as everything has run back down to the pan.. of course that film that never really leaves might just be enough to create the cavity seal necessary for suction.
 
I use assembly lube too. Bought an Oriellys Saturn motor that had the oil pump packed with red grease and that dam thing rattled and never had oil pressure....the grease had sat too long and got stiff. SOO glad I kept my core. I rebuilt it and it has 14k on it currently and purrs like a kitten. I always crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge and the light goes out, then proceed.
 
I use assembly lube too. Bought an Oriellys Saturn motor that had the oil pump packed with red grease and that dam thing rattled and never had oil pressure....the grease had sat too long and got stiff. SOO glad I kept my core. I rebuilt it and it has 14k on it currently and purrs like a kitten. I always crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge and the light goes out, then proceed.
Just one of those stupid oversights... But one than can destroy and engine...
 
I always use assembly lube in the pump and crank it till I get pressure on the guage usually only takes about 10 seconds or less.
 
Cams can play a factor in compression numbers, especially if it is equipped with adjustable cam gears. If the engine is modded heavily thats typically where i look first when it comes to low compression on built motors. Less overlap yeilds higher numbers than more overlap(lopey cams) produce.
 
We are talking about oil pressure
Cams can play a factor in compression numbers, especially if it is equipped with adjustable cam gears. If the engine is modded heavily thats typically where i look first when it comes to low compression on built motors. Less overlap yeilds higher numbers than more overlap(lopey cams) produce.
 
The good news boys... I have another successful engine build under my belt. Motor has close to 500 miles, filters have been completely spotless up to this point. When I build a motor for someone I usually cut them loose after the 5th filter. This is my breakin method, it might seem a little wasteful but it has worked for me . After building the motor I let it sit for a day so that the mitsubond can cure then I fill it with oil, any heavy weight oil ex 20w. Without the belt on I spin the pump gear with a drill until oil starts flowing out of the lifter oil holes. I run the 5 quarts out of the motor out of the turbo oil line. After this I install the timing belt and do a once over on the bolt torques. Fast forward to startup..... Make sure you have a reasonable base tune, this isn't a good time to be messing with your tune. Start the motor until it reaches operating temps and turn it off, Drain the oil and check the filter media for anything suspicious, if you see anything you don't like stop right away. Fill the motor back up with regular 20w shit oil and start the car, once the motor is warm take the car out and do some engine braking,.... up and down , up and down up and down ... this is what I do to seat the rings. I don't beat the crap out of it but I do go into boost. After 20 miles I come back in and drain the oil and check the filter, I also remove the valve cover and inspect the cam lobes and re-torque the headstuds. After this interval I fill the motor with my favorite oil, vr1 20w 50 , I tell my customers to take it out and put some mileage on it. After 500 miles we do the next inspection. The next filter after this filter is the last I check and we say goodbye
 
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