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420A Shot a rod thru my block MAN this sucks

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KYLE JORGENSEN

5+ Year Contributor
133
39
Sep 22, 2018
Spokane Valley, Washington
So title say's it all I threw my 2nd cylinder connecting rod on my 420a engine threw the block since I don't have a shit ton of money to drop on a new engine so I just went ahead and JB welded the hole on the block took about 4 sticks of the steel putty and used JB weld high temp epoxy putty over the patch to handle the heat and had to mold it so there is clearance for the connecting rod and i hate to say this but it works as long as the oil pan still has the pressure a new block is in the works but $1500 on top of the $4500 already put into it I had the chance to look at the crank and it seems fine I will more then likely need to have it balanced and smoothed out for any knicks looks like i got quite a project ahead of me
 

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I don't know if just patching the hole will work. The block may break even more if you try and run it. There is alot more stress on it once its in.
I have spare blocks if you need one.
 
well it drives and runs good since I put my spare piston and rod in it and no pressure problems, not leaking oil, and it handles the temp of the engine cause that high temp putty handles up to 2400 degrees it works I've let each putty layer cure to max before adding any other putty's to it I have a short block being built it take 4-6 weeks with better rods. I still have stock rods in this current bottom end which sucks but gonna have to do til I get that new bottom

so far Ive been racing it around town and on long drives and no issue's so far but I'm always prepared for a engine pull apart on the fly been able to replace rod bearings within 1hr or so these engines are super easy to pull apart and fix
 
You must have done a damn good job :thumb:

Are you gonna post up some pics of the block after you repaired it?
So did it break cause you over revved or did it just go when you were driving normally?
 
yea over revving was the cause. it threw when I hit 2nd. the pull was gnarly but so was that thrown rod LOL

I'll post some pics tomorrow when Im going to change the rod bearings for new ones and check the crank for knicks. I will post the pics of the inside and out
 
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well cylinders were not knicked so that's good and so far the only thing that is needed is to make sure pressure is there and oil leaks are not present and so far so good it just goes to show you don't have to always replace the block some things are salvageable if you know what your doing and the damage is minimal had to replace the crankshaft sensor it shredded that part the bottom just couldn't handle the amount of power that was put thru it

cylinder head is still in good condition no knicks on the piston or any bent valves

Well it sounds like you know what you're doing/ got yourself into!

Fingers crossed your frankenstein-ed engine holds till your block gets here

Try testing the limits of the putty by doing another sick pull in 2nd :D

I have done some good 2nd gear pulls just to test it with the JB autoweld putty in place and have no loss in oil pressure

as long as it is fully cured the JB autoweld putty can take a lot of power and pressure to break it hence strongest bond in the world

too be honest I think it was just a bad piston and connecting rod. I had to put in my spare piston and it has no issues with the same tuning setup
 
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All I can say is WOW !!! :applause: :applause: :applause: :thumb:
 
A pick of the steel stick putty I'm still sanding it down to make it look decent LOL not really working and yes this is temp since I have a new short block coming but it works for patch work everything clears on inside and no leaks from the outside. when the connecting rod threw it ate chunks out of the thick parts of the crank multiple chips I'm glad I ordered a new block the damage was extensive for the balancing/weight part of the crank
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