The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G Milk, Eggs, Cheese-Did I get everything (Clutch replacement)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dreams Realized

5+ Year Contributor
356
160
Jul 23, 2018
Seattle, Washington
Alright so I know this question has been beaten half-to-death on this forum and I have read just about all the articles I could dating back to 2008... But I just gotta know- Did I get everything?

I am going all out and I want to replace everything I can while I am in there. I have the paperwork from the previous owner and my transmission internals have been checked for wear recently, so I am not concerned about any of that. I would love a B&M or Fidanza short shifter too.... But will likely have to live without it.

Here is the list I have built:
-South Bend SS-X kevlar/ceramic clutch
-ACT Flywheel chromoly steel (media blasted)
-ARP flywheel bolts
-Stainless slave to cylinder line
-Competition clutch fork
-OEM fulcrum pivot ball
-OEM throw out bearing & clip
-OEM slave & master cylinders
-OEM shifter bushing
-OEM shifter link bushings
-STM shifter cable bearings
-OEM shifter cup bushing

The clutch and flywheel need to be streetable but still be able to take a thrashing, is this a good combo?

Did I miss anything? Should I look at replacing parts in the pedal assembly too?
 
Looks good. I can suggest checking whether your small M8 trans bolt is in place and intact (the one that goes FROM the block to the trans (a.k.a the crankwalk bolt).

Also check if your trans mount is intact and if the rubber pads are there (if you're using OEM mounts that is). Also get some new DOT4 fluid and bleed that sum'bi*** all the way.
 
Alright so I know this question has been beaten half-to-death on this forum and I have read just about all the articles I could dating back to 2008... But I just gotta know- Did I get everything?

I am going all out and I want to replace everything I can while I am in there. I have the paperwork from the previous owner and my transmission internals have been checked for wear recently, so I am not concerned about any of that. I would love a B&M or Fidanza short shifter too.... But will likely have to live without it.

Here is the list I have built:
-South Bend SS-X kevlar/ceramic clutch
-ACT Flywheel chromoly steel (media blasted)
-ARP flywheel bolts
-Stainless slave to cylinder line
-Competition clutch fork
-OEM fulcrum pivot ball
-OEM throw out bearing & clip
-OEM slave & master cylinders
-OEM shifter bushing
-OEM shifter link bushings
-STM shifter cable bearings
-OEM shifter cup bushing

The clutch and flywheel need to be streetable but still be able to take a thrashing, is this a good combo?
The most important thing, install/adjust properly. Besides that the list looks just fine. Maybe I would add new pressure plate bolts and master to slave SS line if the budget allows.
As for the pressure plate and disc, this would be depending on how much torque you make or/and you plan to make. also your taste, like how much more discomfort you would be able to accept comparing to the stock clutch.

Should I look at replacing parts in the pedal assembly too?
Maybe bushings but most probably no need unless you have been feeling weird on the pedal. Anyways you will see it when you replace the master cylinder so should check it physically at the same time.
 
If you have to live without an aftermarket short shifter, you can at least cut down the stock one. As long as you have access to a welder its not gonna cost you a thing and it makes a big improvent.

What about Symborski bushings?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



on the clutch pedal, i would suggest replacing the 2 stops and the bushing where the push rod connects, if nothing else.
Both stops already fell off the pedal in the pic
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




here are the part numbers for them:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If your having trouble finding the stops with that part number, try MB151298
 
@dustyboner Thanks for the suggestions! I will add those parts to my list... Also what exactly do the symborski bushings do? I don't understand how replacing the shifter plate mounts would make a difference, pardon my ignorance- Also I do have access to a very busy welder man, but I am sure a case of beer could coax him to modify my shifter.

@DSMPT Target HP is 400 to the wheels with a holset hx35 setup and whatever torque comes with that number, I am just piecing things together at the moment, but should be sending off to English Racing come Fall depending on my work schedule

@Kryndon I will go ahead and just order the trans bolt ahead of time and those rubber pads, better to be prepared than have to wait on parts, I find.
 
@dustyboner Thanks for the suggestions! I will add those parts to my list... Also what exactly do the symborski bushings do? I don't understand how replacing the shifter plate mounts would make a difference, pardon my ignorance- Also I do have access to a very busy welder man, but I am sure a case of beer could coax him to modify my shifter.

They don't do much. Mainly eliminate any movement of the shifter assembly that the stock rubber bushings allow for. Personally i would go with some aftermarket shift cable bushings (stiffer) at least on the transmission side.
 
Sounds good! Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

Also I will just buy aftermarket cable bushings, $35 isn't exactly breaking the bank :cool: Although I appreciate the fact that DSMers do everything for cheap

I am so close to my power goals now, I can taste it.
 
Check and make sure your front and rear motor mounts aren't crap. If they are, get Torque Solution ones.
 
@twicks69 Will the stock ones hold up to all the torque (I am assuming like 325-350 lb/ft at most) I want to throw down? My mounts were replaced last clutch change 45,000 miles ago

Those torque solutions ones look like they could handle a jet engine, so I will strongly consider buying them regardless.

Btw grabbing most these components from your website ;)
 
It's not really a power level thing as it is more of a durability thing. The stock rubber ones just suck and are floppy. The front and rear ones typically are the most failure prone due to the design. Prothane and Energy Suspension inserts for the front and rear work just OK on a new set of factory mounts, and do only a little to help. On an old set, it is going to do nearly nothing. Your set being newer, it will be better to have at least inserts over nothing. The front and rear torque solution ones are the most effective. I prefer prothane or energy suspension ones for the sides, but for ease of install, the torque solution ones do great!

From the last time I did an install of ALL torque solution mounts, I recall I had to drill and countersink the passenger side mount a bit for using M12x1.25 socket cap screws instead of hex screws. Driver side had no modifications. Rear mount installed easy. Front mount I recall having to ream a mount hole a little.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top