I need som insperation so post some pictures of your setup!

I haven't seen 19s on a DSM since my buddy had his 98 gs like 14 years ago. I don't recall the offset, I do remember they were heavy as hell.

What is the rim width?

Well, I have been looking at 19x8.5 but a 8" would work aswell.

I would think +35 or +38mm with an 8.5" rim would be the offset to look for.

Thanks for quick answers! It seems that +40 is a sweetspot on these cars. I talked to a buddy who's friend is an expert in wheels and fitment around here and he calculated that 8" (225) or 8.5" (235) with a +45 offset would look the best and clear the fenders and struts. He also knew some dude with the same setup on a - 97 GS on 35 profile. I did the "willtheyfit" calculator and it says that the new wheel is going to have an inner rim which is 24.4mm closer to the suspension strut and the outer rim will poke out 26.4mm more than the original wheels. What do you guys think? I guess the best thing is to get under the car and measure the clearence as it is today to be 100% sure.

Should look something like this compare to the original wheela, if the calculator is correct...

Sounds like you've done your homework, only way to know for sure is mockup or put the actual wheels on. I've made a cardboard "wheel" before when testing fitment, helped me make decisions based on the specs.
Sounds like you have it sorted though!

If you are concerned about wheel gap- how far wheels stick outside of wheel well- 8.5" with a +35mm offset puts the rubber about a 0.25" (that is the setup I have)

It isn't flush if that is what you are going for, but I needed to clear my big boy brakes and I did so with about 2 mm to spare

Dreams Realized said:

If you are concerned about wheel gap- how far wheels stick outside of wheel well- 8.5" with a +35mm offset puts the rubber about a 0.25" (that is the setup I have)

It isn't flush if that is what you are going for, but I needed to clear my big boy brakes and I did so with about 2 mm to spare

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Thanks for the input! Yesterday we tried a 8x19" rim with ET35 and it did poke outside the fender maybe 5-10mm. Hard to measure without any rubber on the rim. but we measured the clerance to the controlarm from the rim and there was maybe 20mm clearence. (without rubber). So I am now thinkin on ET40 with a 7.5" rim. That would set the tire just in line with the fender and get more space between the control bar and wheel. I have to take in to account that I have to lower the car aswell. Thing is 7.5x19 is hard do get

Mine 19x8 40ET 235-35/19

gstboy said:

Mine 19x8 40ET 235-35/19

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Any issues with that setup? Rubbing? There can not be much clearance left

My 97 had 19×7.5 +45 on it with 225/35 toyos for awhile. No issues, but heavy asf. I switched to 17×8 +35 with 235/45 falkens and had to raise the coil overs up about an inch. Rubbed on the outside in the rear on hard compression even after rolling the flange on the wheelwells. The tire width and offset are the only specs that determine clearance of the fender or upper part of the knuckle. Also, 97-99 cars seem to have a slightly different casting on the knuckle with about 3mm more clearance.

Tuomas said:

Thanks for the input! Yesterday we tried a 8x19" rim with ET35 and it did poke outside the fender maybe 5-10mm. Hard to measure without any rubber on the rim. but we measured the clerance to the controlarm from the rim and there was maybe 20mm clearence. (without rubber). So I am now thinkin on ET40 with a 7.5" rim. That would set the tire just in line with the fender and get more space between the control bar and wheel. I have to take in to account that I have to lower the car aswell. Thing is 7.5x19 is hard do get

Click to expand...

Just remember that 225 is about the max size you want on a 7.5 wide wheel where the sidewall will remain flush. Also, as most 225s have a section width measured on a 7.5 wheel, you get a "true" 225 width. I would check your tire specs because a wider tire, say 235, on a 7.5 very well may have less usable width than a, say 235, on a 8.0 wheel and you may be better off getting the 225 to have better sidewall support/load carrying capacity. General rule is 2/10" section width change for every 0.5" wheel width change, in the appropriate direction.

A 235 will also balloon a bit on a 7.5, but you can call that a little bit of curb insurance if you wish.

I ran into this earlier this year. I wanted to run a 235 but couldnt find a reasonably priced 17x8 I liked with the correct offset, so I opted for 7.5 ET40. Staying within a budget and doing the math, it made no sense to go 235 because I would have to go with a much less quality tire and have 5mm less usable contact patch, than if I were to go with a top shelf 225. 235s are hella expensive here.. I think quality rubber is worth more than 5mm extra of crap rubber.
Now, if money is no object, by all means go 235 in quality rubber and have 230 effective width. It will pudge out a bit.. 225 on 7.5 is perfectly flush.

Thank's for very informative answers guys!

I measured the clearance one more time this time seriously with some special tools a borrowed. There is 37-38mm clearance to the controlarm (is it called that?) with my existing setup, original Spyder wheels @ 205/55/16 and a rim witch is 6" with a 46 offset.

If the "willtheyfit" calculater is right a 8x18 with ET40 and 225-40-18 should clear the controlarm and also be "flush" with the fender.

Im planing to get these rims if anyone is interested. See attached file

Should look sick on my black Spyder.

I have always liked the look of bronzed rims, should look good man. Post up pics when you have them installed

Will do after the new roof is installed in August. The damn thing will set me back 1700 dollar but after that Im going to order new wheels and coilover package. Looking forward to the final result.