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2G Fuel system upgrade with stock fuel tank for high horsepower. Pics inside!

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So I'll need to make a video and a new diagram but I've been thinking on this a long time while doing other mods. Instead of using another pump and all, I'll just use the system that's already in place and for free. The tube that goes from the drivers side to the passenger in factory style, and just pull fuel from one side of the tank to the pump. I'll try and update with video really soon.
 
GoPro apparently changed their video editing program so took me freaking forever to figure out how to use the new stuff. But anyway, this is the video I made with the demonstration on how the tank works inside with a saddle tank design. I just didn't think of it and could've just put in a sump on one side. Oh well....

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Pretty sure we already told you about this and you choose not to listen. Better late then never I suppose...
 
Where??? And thanks for your wonderful contribution to this thread.
 
I see where you're talking about now for the venturi part (after I already made this setup and completed it), but people are also talking about using intank tank pumps, etc. Not what I was wanting here. The venturi part is a good idea that maybe I missed. I don't know.

I'm trying for something new and different here and to be innovative. I haven't ever seen a stock tank on a car with a sump. Kill me for wanting to try something different here and being a *ick about it. Sheesh....
 
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We were only talking about using a second pump to try and retrofit the system as it was and utilize both the sumps you had. And with the pump transferring it to one side like the factory system you would always have the max possible head (height of gasoline) on the sump.

@lasthope05 was talking about a venturi setup on the return line like the factory setup which would draw the fuel out of one side and put it on the sump side similar to having the second electric pump. That is how the stock system works.

Both of those ways really would be the best ways to do it butt the transfer hose like your talking about should work though. Most of your issues will be resolved just by removing the Y and drawing from one side of the tank. That's the main thing most of us were worried about when you originally posted.

To be honest when we were discussing running the hose between the two sides before I completely forgot about the siphon effect and was thinking you wouldn't be able to run it upward:

I really like his idea of connecting the two sumps together to even out the tank. Really similar to how they do a lot of motorcycle tanks. Solves the whole problem of keeping the fuel on one side or another, especially if you don't take corners hard. You could run the hose rearward as long as you don't route it upward at all if your worried about clearing the driveshaft.

So I was wrong and running it up over the driveshaft definitely will work as you've shown in the sink example.

The reason I say it's not as good a solution as a second electric pump or the venturi pump like factory is that with any cornering to the opposite side of the sump, the siphon hose will be draining fuel away from your sump and not into it. I know it's a drag car so it may not be a problem just something to be aware of.

I still appreciate you posting up about your setup. I had never seen one of those bolt on sumps until you posted about them. And that's what were all here for to see cool stuff. And props to you for not being too proud to let everyone know that it didn't work as you were planning and drawing from both side did prove to be a bad idea.
 
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Yeah, it's a matter of trial and error as with anything. I had ran some of these ideas by some folks on the ecmlink forums and then made it happen. Post up what I actually did and as usual, the ball busting starts AFTER it's done. But who gives a *hit so long as the end result works and gets it done.

If guys like Shep, Devin Schultz, etc always listened to high school kids on the forums, everyone would be running around with 14 second cars. Lol.
 
Didn't really watch the video until now, but I'm gonna to tell you again, it's not gonna work/work well.

That system is based on equalization assuming the transfer hose is fully primed. It works as a pressure differential. In a car with all the fuel sloshing and aeration, once the hose picks up enough air it's going to stop working.

Just mimic the stocks system. It works
 
Didn't really watch the video until now, but I'm gonna to tell you again, it's not gonna work/work well.

That system is based on equalization assuming the transfer hose is fully primed. It works as a pressure differential. In a car with all the fuel sloshing and aeration, once the hose picks up enough air it's going to stop working.

Just mimic the stocks system. It works

Maybe I'm missing what you're saying since I'm saying that I plan on using the stock hose for the venturi effect and only using the sump on one side. Either I'm missing what you're saying or you're misunderstanding what I'm saying. I'm not sure which.
 
Maybe I'm missing what you're saying since I'm saying that I plan on using the stock hose for the venturi effect and only using the sump on one side. Either I'm missing what you're saying or you're misunderstanding what I'm saying. I'm not sure which.

I might be misunderstanding. I was under the assumption that you were just going to leave the stock hose dangling in the tank without the siphon barb. In that situation, it's not going to be effective at all. That fitting is key to constantly drawing fuel over to the other side. With just running a hose with no siphon fitting, the fluid transfer will only be intermittent and stop when the hose draws in enough air from aeration/slosh to stop the pull.
 
No, I'm leaving that setup stock. Just with no pump in the stock location because I'll use the sump on the passenger side and block the sump on the driver side of the car. Even drain it back to the stock location.

However, now I'm trying to remember how that hose is ran on the passenger side inside the tank to transfer the fuel back and forth. Can't remember if it was part of the pump assembly or not.
 
So there is a way to actually make the system work so that you regain the ability to transfer fuel. Of course, having read the majority of this post (nearly twice over), the use of a transfer pump is the key. Oddly enough I have taken this setup and modified it a bit [on paper] and managed to come up with a solution to the problem of transfer.

In short, you would have the second pump operated by two relays. One relay, an SPST, would be to turn it on and off based on the "main" passenger, or driver side, fuel feed to the main pump (for the engine). The second relay would be an SPDT, which would provide a +12v constant as long as the other side is high on fuel. Once the second side falls below a given level it will then "open" the relay and trigger the fuel light and cut power to the transfer pump since the main side would still be activating the first relay to transfer fuel - this is to protect the transfer from a dry run. The unfortunate part of this system is that to operate it you would need to obtain two fuel sender interface modules such as the one found here. The alarm trigger in the module would be the way to activate the relays accordingly using the original fuel level senders in each tank or replacing them completely with aftermarket ones. This does complicate the system a bit but it allows for retention of the transferability of the fuel tank itself and can maximize the use of fuel that the saddlebag system seems to fail on.

Just thought I would throw that out there, either way, I want to thank you for the idea as I will be using it myself.
 
Appreciate the reply. I'm still working on this and certainly haven't forgotten this thread. But other upgrades and a bunch of broken parts seem to always throw a wrench in THIS project. I blew up my manual transmission about a year ago and I've been working on doing an auto conversion and saving bunches of money for all that and the upgraded parts needed for that there as well. That being said, this has been on the back burner.

That being said, I know it was mentioned previously that the stock setup for the transfer of fluid would get the job done and I want to dive into seeing if that will indeed work, and I only say "seeing if that will indeed work" because I no longer have a stock pump in my tank and I'm unsure if that's needed to create the siphon needed to get the transfer of fluid going or not. Is it that or just the pull of force on the lowering of fluid on one side? That, I'm not sure and haven't had a chance to look into it much yet. I don't have the return in the stock location and have a -8 line in a new spot because I didn't want to bottle neck it down and bump the fuel pressure up. But maybe it won't be that big of an issue. Won't know till I try it. I'm really wanting to just covert over to a fuel cell at this point, but I don't want to do that until I've at least succeeded in making this work for the transfer of fluid otherwise everyone is left with a dead end post with incomplete answers. I'm not giving up until it works flawlessly. Just need the car running to test it though.

The other thing is that I need to see if I can get new o-rings for the Beans Diesel sumps that tolerate E85. The ones I have in there now I feel are making my fuel go bad after a short period of time and changing my fuel color to purple. I had to drain the tank of all the fluid I had in there. Had someone steal all that old fuel thinking it was good fuel and the person he stole it for now has a truck that won't run. Lol. Serves him right, peckerhead. But anyway, I'll post when I have updates but it won't be real soon. Car has to be running first.
 
Not a problem, I had a good read and got a good idea from it. Anyways, since your return is still running to the top of the tank, all you need to do is create a siphon from that. If you look at post #6 in this thread, you could easily make something like that as long as your return fitting/bulkhead is adequate enough to have something similar mounted on it. After that, you would need to just attach a hose/hanger on the other side and rebuild the setup as if it were OEM. In short, you're half-way there just need to create the siphon portion and you're good to go.
 
So I've been trying to work on this auto conversion for over a year now (saving money and sourcing the parts I've needed) and I'm about done. I'll be working on completing this as well at the same time before I fire it back up. I just purchased another fuel pump hanger since I cut the portion off mine that's needed for the venturi effect. I've ordered some other fittings and stuff as well. I'll update when I can and then try and get this whole thread cleaned up to weed out all the stupid b.s. Just wanted to keep y'all posted. Been thinking about doing a fuel cell but I'm dedicated to getting this to work right before I do.
 
Alrighty, so here we go. If this doesn't work then I'm going to a fuel cell. New hanger and waiting on one part. We'll see how it does. Stay tuned.
 

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Car is back on the ground for the first time in a year. Once I get injectors back from FIC, I'll start getting data hopefully.
 

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