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OEM vs Competition Clutch Fork

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Mauispyder

Proven Member
483
82
Jan 20, 2015
Kula, Hawaii
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I did a test putting in both forks with the transmission out. They appear to both have the same range of motion with the TOB. The oem fork with 10,000 miles felt a lot smoother pushing the TOB up and down the shaft sleeve. The CC fork felt like it was getting stuck when it was all the way back ( towards the bellhousing). It took a little extra force to get the TOB moving, like the feeling of breaking a magnet free. Therefore I’m strongly considering using the oem fork again. There’s a picture of where the slave rod contacts the fork on both the oem and the CC. Note the deeper depression for the OEM, is this normal or wear?? I did find my older 120,000 mile oem fork for comparison and it looked the same as the 10,000 mile oem fork.
Thanks!
 
Idk if you'd see a difference once in the car, as it will always have the pressure plate to balance out any tilt of the TOB as long as it's installed properly. I have the CC fork ready for mine once I get a good time to pull the trans, and I know there's many-a happy customers with the CC fork.

Biggest thing is it's strength compared to the OEM when using a heavier pressure plate, and they don't have years of stress cycles like oems will. Your choice in the end tho!
 
I have no problems with the forged fork, the oem however snapped one side off the fork area at one time on me, and that was with a stock pressure plate so beware of that, especially if you are using other than a stock pressure plate, it has happened to many.
 
I really wanted to use the forged fork. I kept checking the action of each with the tob, fork boot on, pressure on the front of the tob. The OEM fork had a bigger range of motion by at least a quarter inch, and felt like the throw was smoother. Important to me because I already feel grooves worn into the sleeve that the tob rides on. The ball felt more sloppy in the spring clip as well with the forged fork. It could be that there were just a bad batch of spring clips with the forged forks, but at that point I didn’t want to delve into it anymore. I’m using an ACT 2100 pp this time around btw. Thank you all for your insights, I appreciate all the dsm community does to support it’s enthusiasts!
 
competition clutch fork is great just installed one last weekend, the pp and the spring in the slave cylinder should keep it from going all the way back towards the bellhousing and be sure to grease your pivot ball and the TOB before you put it in that should help with it be smoother as well.
 
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