- Thread starter
- #26
4g64Starion
5+ Year Contributor
- 76
- 25
- Jan 27, 2019
-
Denver,
Colorado
OK more updates, sorry for the delay and thanks to Devilsfutbol17 for the info.
AS you can guess, I'm still fighting with the clearance beetween the firewall and the head, which means removing the thermostat from its usual location. I plan to run an inline one. I went ahead and cut off the whole assembly fro the mounting flange. Yay bandsaws. I now need to find a large 90 degree fitting to weld onto this. I don't think AN makes anything large enough.
The other problem is the cam sensor. Standard Mitsu crank sensor only has 2 outputs, which s no good for Megasquirt. So I was thinking to simply machine off 1-2 of the teeth on the unused balance shaft drive pulley and use it as a the crank trigger. This would give me a reference signal every 9.5 degrees assuming the 38 tooth wheel is used, or 11.25 if I use the SOHC 32 tooth wheel. I'll obviously need to move the sensor/make a bracket. I just have trouble stomaching paying $200 to Kiggley for a 12 tooth that I'll have to grind one of the teeth off of. MS2 allows for just about any combination of teeth and angles/offset I can think of, so I think I've got a good plan so far. I do need to figure out a proper Hall Effect sensor, as the Mitsu one can't handle that many teeth from what I read. Also GM is likely cheaper! If any of you guys know/has experience with this, let me know! I could hypothetically modify the MS2 board to use the OEM sensors, but again, clearance to the Firewall is an issue, not to mention buying more board parts.
Also modified the water pump for clearance to the T-belt tensioner. The SOHC mighty max pump is slightly different from the DOHC. Oh and you need to pull this stud from the block, which really confused me as I didn't have any of this stuff on the block when I tore it down. The SOHC Mighty Max and DOHC timing arrangements are totally different from what I can tell.
I'm stuck until next week when the balance shaft elimination kit comes in, as well as the Head is supposed to be completed too!
AS you can guess, I'm still fighting with the clearance beetween the firewall and the head, which means removing the thermostat from its usual location. I plan to run an inline one. I went ahead and cut off the whole assembly fro the mounting flange. Yay bandsaws. I now need to find a large 90 degree fitting to weld onto this. I don't think AN makes anything large enough.
The other problem is the cam sensor. Standard Mitsu crank sensor only has 2 outputs, which s no good for Megasquirt. So I was thinking to simply machine off 1-2 of the teeth on the unused balance shaft drive pulley and use it as a the crank trigger. This would give me a reference signal every 9.5 degrees assuming the 38 tooth wheel is used, or 11.25 if I use the SOHC 32 tooth wheel. I'll obviously need to move the sensor/make a bracket. I just have trouble stomaching paying $200 to Kiggley for a 12 tooth that I'll have to grind one of the teeth off of. MS2 allows for just about any combination of teeth and angles/offset I can think of, so I think I've got a good plan so far. I do need to figure out a proper Hall Effect sensor, as the Mitsu one can't handle that many teeth from what I read. Also GM is likely cheaper! If any of you guys know/has experience with this, let me know! I could hypothetically modify the MS2 board to use the OEM sensors, but again, clearance to the Firewall is an issue, not to mention buying more board parts.
Also modified the water pump for clearance to the T-belt tensioner. The SOHC mighty max pump is slightly different from the DOHC. Oh and you need to pull this stud from the block, which really confused me as I didn't have any of this stuff on the block when I tore it down. The SOHC Mighty Max and DOHC timing arrangements are totally different from what I can tell.
I'm stuck until next week when the balance shaft elimination kit comes in, as well as the Head is supposed to be completed too!