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One Clean 2gb

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Seen a lot of awesome builds going on here so I figured I would at least update mine! Not really much of a build as I acquired the car with less than 50k mileage and bone stock. With it being 20+ years old, a black box ecu and in excellent shape, I figured I would keep it pretty mild.

Over the winter I pulled the radiator, turbo and O2 housing. I sent the O2 housing out to get ported and ceramic coated by Boosted Performance:
O2 housing1.jpg
O2 housing2.jpg


The stock radiator was in decent shape but I upgraded to a Mishimoto unit:
Radiator.jpg


I also managed to acquire a Hahn SMIC:
Hahn.jpg


This is overkill for a stock T25 turbo but I had the itch to turn wrenches through the winter and spring. With the exception of the radiator, I've kept all stock parts!

Norm
 
While putting everything back together, I found the stock oil feed line to be a hug PITA. It snapped while trying to line up so I picked up a flexible feed line with 0.075" restrictor. The only thing that proved to be a bigger pain than the oil feed line was the connection into the OFH. I tried a ton of PB Blaster but that thing was not moving. I used an induction coil for about 12 seconds and the connection came right out:
inductor.jpg
OFH.jpg


While the DSM may be mild the MK7 Golf R is getting a boost in...well, boost:
AP.jpg


Next up for the DSM is the brakes and suspension. Picked up Outlander brackets and rotors with some porterfield pads. Flush the brake and clutch lines, change out the pads and rotors, and install theRM rear sway bar.
 
So I'm considering ECMlink as I've read many threads stating that it is beneficial (even for a stock vehicle) in terms of a diagnostic tool. I've seen some posts indicating that for a '98 vehicle you have to swap plug wires and some posts saying and click "invert CAS", some posts saying you just have to click "invert CAS" and ECMlink website saying that neither of those are needed anymore but that you have to notify them if you are using it in a 97 or later vehicle.

Which one is it?
 
My brakes always felt a little squishy and I originally had purchased new rotors and pads but my calipers were looking pretty crappy:
caliper.jpg

I considered rebuilding them but I didn't have access to compressed air so I just purchased remanufactured calipers all around. With new calipers in hand, I paired them up with centric blank rotors and porterfield R4-S pads:
rotors.jpg

While doing the brakes, it was a perfect time to do the Outlander upgrade:
outlander.jpg
 
My stock rear sway bar and end links have seen better days:
stockrsb.jpg


I keep all (or most I should say) stock parts so I'll clean up the RSB and have powdercoated and then store it with the other stock parts. I got in on the group buy for a new RM RSB:
rmrsb.jpg

The brackets were pretty filthy so I soaked them in degreaser, sanded, primed and painted them a flat khaki.
 
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Followed, watched and rated 5/5! Would love to see more pics of your Talon. Hopefully your paint is in better shape than mine. It's funny how both are low mileage but they have almost the same amount of rust in the exact same spots underneath. Also if possible, do you think you can snap a pic of your rear muffler? I just want to compare it to how I got mine since I wasn't sure if it was stock or not. From your last picture it looks very similar.

Anyway, great work on the cooler(s) and brake upgrades. Definitely worthwhile mods in preparation for more boost later on. Also DSMlink is a no-brainer if you have the funds for it. You also said you've got the black box ECU which is even better! Get that sucker chipped by ECM and start learning the ropes. It'll definitely come in handy if you plan on keeping the DSM for a long while.

Good luck and don't be afraid to post up more pics :talon::thumb:
 
Thanks! The car is in good shape is it was never driven in the winter and almost never driven in the rain before I picked it up. I'll be sure to give the car a good bath this weekend (she's pretty dusty from sitting in the garage all winter) and get some more pics up. The rear muffler is indeed stock and I'll get a pic of that too.

I reached out to DSMlink and I'm considering it since there doesn't really seem to be much activity in terms of Ceddymods and ECUflash. With the car still being pretty much stock, I figured using either one would help in terms of learning for right now. Thanks for the tips..I'll post more pics and info as things progress :D
 
Posted a few more photos in the photo section.

Minor update: the old tires got tossed in favor of General g-max rs
gmax rs.jpg


New tires, new brakes, and a thicker rear sway bar..might have to give the dsm a spin at autocrossing.
 
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Update 5/6/2020:

Ever since installing the RM rear sway bar, I've had issues with the bar physically hitting the rear lower control arms (with the car in motion). Not sure if anyone else had this issue and it's a little difficult to see via pics but this is what I had been dealing with for almost a year:
stock arm.jpg

I got tired of hearing the bar hit the control arms while driving so I upgraded to Volk rear lca's:
stvsvolk.jpg


Installation complete. Much better:
volk arm.jpg


Much better but now that I think about it, I probably should have ordered the toe arms and done those at the same time. Lesson learned. Maybe.
 
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Not having an actual boost gauge always bothers me so I picked up an AEM Tru-boost. Fabricated a bracket and used existing bolt holes next to the intake to test fit the solenoid. I’ll probably flip the solenoid around but I’m happy with the location and mock up.
4326FE9E-0FC5-4147-94CE-58466489DA5C.jpeg
97BBC26D-3A9C-4BD1-9635-636F19D3F15F.jpeg
 
Looking for a bit more power (while keeping the response) than the T25. Preview of what’s going on in the fall/winter.
 

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Very nice car! I really like the black 2gb talons. Also like how clean you have kept it, and saving all the original parts/staying with "stock" style build. I have been saving every original part I have taken from mine since I bought it stock. But it is not nearly as clean as yours.
I don't know if you pulled the trigger on ECMlink or not but I was in the same boat of having a black box ecu. I decided to go with ECMlink as I am completely new to tuning and there is far more information for ECMlink.
I was able to source a 96 non eprom ecu and send it in to them to have it chipped. I asked that they do the CAS conversion for me and it was plug and play!
So far it has been a very useful tool for attempting to chase down my idle problems. I think it is worth it stock or not.
 
Thanks! I'm probably going to stay within a "stockish" build. Finish up the suspension, get the calipers powdercoated and do something about the eyesore that is my exhaust (it's the only part with bad rust). I may postpone the T28 install until I decide to go with link or tactrix but the support here for link is significantly more than blackbox. If anything, like you said, it is a highly useful diagnostic tool.

Oh and rims. I'll keep the stockers but seeing the RPF01 on yours along with the Feals has definitely made me consider a better set of rims.
 
"Minor" Update 6/17/2020:

Volk trailing arms were installed a few weeks back. Checked the torque on the rear lca's and put a fresh coat of oil on both arms. I had to reuse the nuts on the knuckle side, as I could not locate new stock ones:
trailing 1.jpg

Driver side trailing arm behind the lower control arm:
trailing 2.jpg


I really wanted a boost gauge that would actually indicate boost and tonight was the trail run for the AEM Tru Boost X gauge/boost controller:
boost.jpg

The tiny T25 is peaking right where it should--at about 12.5 psi. I really like the gauge pod from @Kai Hefner but I think I will eventually use it for a different gauge. Running wires (2 sets of electrical wires and a vacuum hose) for the gauge and the boost controller does not allow for a clean install through the weather stripping. Most likely I'll get a pod for one of the center vents and reserve the door pod for a future Wideband. Still a very impressive 3D produced part, so maybe he'll make more custom parts!
 
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Definitely keeping up with the build! Looks like you're putting a lot into it. I'm excited to see the gauge pod in action, let me know how it holds up... more parts coming :D
Looking forward to more updates from the build.
 
Nice you are keeping it stockish look.

I’ll stay tune for updates.

Im doing the same thing as you with my 2gb talon, stock look is my goal.

Where did you find the Hahn SMIC, I have look all over the place with no luck.

You're putting in a lot of work on your build--looking forward to yours as well.

The Hahn SMIC and the B&M short throw I got from here by constantly checking the For Sale section.
 
Update 8/1/2020:

I've been following the 2021 Ford Bronco for a while now and when Ford finally allowed for reservations, I put in for a Black Diamonds edition. The V6 TT is a must have for me (bucket list item...never owned one)and it will only come paired to an automatic. Long story short, I still like having a manual car (and don't want to own 3 vehicles) so I'll be keeping the Talon and trading in my MK7 Golf R. I've already been using the Talon as a daily but now I need to replicate some of the handling and speed that I will be losing out on with the trade in. I wasn't planning it initially but I'll also have to replace the Kenwood head unit with a better one that also provides Apple Car Play.

This morning I was able to get the car on a lift for a stock exhaust replacement:
Thermal 1.jpg

Out with the old, in with the new...
Thermal 2.jpg
Thermal 3.jpg

First impressions are mixed...I do like the deeper bass from the Thermal and it's a beautiful looking exhaust. But it's too loud IMO. Maybe I'm approaching "get off my lawn" stage at the ripe old age of 40 but I will most likely have a shop weld in a resonator when I add a catted downpipe. I'll gladly settle for a bit of restriction to attain decibel reduction.
 
I also moved the boost gauge to the center vent area. With the gauge and BCS wires, it was too much to try and fit through the weather stripping on the side mirror pod. I'll save that one for a different gauge.
Boost.jpg
 
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