The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

2G Clutch slipping

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Matts_talon

Probationary Member
23
3
Feb 24, 2019
Hamilton, ON_Canada
so i had bought my tsi as a shell with low kms on it i bought a low kms awd tsi pulled it(turbo had a bunch of shaft play and manifold was cracked)so i played to build it and it’s being kept aside at the moment, as well i got a 97gst that wasn’t in bad shape and stole the engine cause it had been rebuilt. I then provided to mate the awd tranny to the engine that came out of the gs-t, and yes if you are wondering i put all the proper plates for the starter. Now the first time i drove it to test it just up and down the street the clutch doesn’t fully engage. It almost fully grabs but it won’t catch and the clutch fork isn’t broke, and it doesn’t have a problem shifting it just won’t fully grab. What could this possibly be ???

Any help would be great!!
Thanks
 
Have you looked at the master cylinder?

It could be simply low on fluid or maybe it needs an adjustment.
I’ve haven’t adjusted it which i was thinking of doing but te aster should fine no leaks or anything . I was thinking it might be to far down so the rod isn’t letting enough fluid come back to the master. But before i try that i wanted other people a opinion becuase it seems to just have a problem fully engaging
 
I’ve haven’t adjusted it which i was thinking of doing but te aster should fine no leaks or anything . I was thinking it might be to far down so the rod isn’t letting enough fluid come back to the master. But before i try that i wanted other people a opinion becuase it seems to just have a problem fully engaging
Did you install a new clutch plate?
 
No but i basically too all clutch and flywheel components and just installed them on another engine so they hound be all mated for each other . Am i wrong ?
I was asking because if that old clutch plate is very worn and used then it will not properly grab the flywheel.
 
If the clutch & flywheel are all the same & were working fine before you did the engine swap, I would think the resurfacing & what not is probably unnecessary. Also, the fluid & master cyclinder would be a problem with disengaement & shifting issues, not with the engagement & slipping. Start with the simple stuff and check that you have the clutch pedal properly adjusted. It is possible to get the master rod & pedal height off enough to keep the clutch from fully engaging but this is sort of uncommon. Most DSM clutch problems are with disengagement & hard/not being able to shift while running.
Here a good YouTube video on adjusting the clutch pedal.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
. If the adjustment ends up being all okay then the most likely cause of not fully engaging/slipping is the clutch disc is worn, too thin, and needs to be replaced.
 
You need to have the flywheel resurfaced so that it will be smooth so that the clutch can grab it properly.
As well it isn’t making a normal sound tho liek its not just slipping it sounds it’s buzzing when i let the clutch out and when at WOT it does the same thing is this still just my clutch slipping or could it be something else ?
 
If the clutch & flywheel are all the same & were working fine before you did the engine swap, I would think the resurfacing & what not is probably unnecessary. Also, the fluid & master cyclinder would be a problem with disengaement & shifting issues, not with the engagement & slipping. Start with the simple stuff and check that you have the clutch pedal properly adjusted. It is possible to get the master rod & pedal height off enough to keep the clutch from fully engaging but this is sort of uncommon. Most DSM clutch problems are with disengagement & hard/not being able to shift while running.
Here a good YouTube video on adjusting the clutch pedal.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
. If the adjustment ends up being all okay then the most likely cause of not fully engaging/slipping is the clutch disc is worn, too thin, and needs to be replaced.
Alright thanks so much for the video!!
 
If the clutch/FW/PP combo was working in a previous car and nothing was changed when swapping, you have another mechanical/hydraulic problem.
Not putting a fresh clutch set on when you had the chance seems a bit hopeful, especially if you didn't know the exact condition of the current setup.
Make sure the clutch master is adjusted properly, and inspect the slave/fork when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

Search: "Jack's transmissions clutch adjustment", watch the video and check stuff, then report back.
 
If the clutch/FW/PP combo was working in a previous car and nothing was changed when swapping, you have another mechanical/hydraulic problem.
Not putting a fresh clutch set on when you had the chance seems a bit hopeful, especially if you didn't know the exact condition of the current setup.
Make sure the clutch master is adjusted properly, and inspect the slave/fork when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

Search: "Jack's transmissions clutch adjustment", watch the video and check stuff, then report back.
I was also readin that it could be the clutch fork and the reason i didn’t change the clutch assembly out is becuase i love in Canada so it will only be drove 6 months out of the year becuase of salt on the road and I’m building the extra block i have to be ready in 2 years so i figured i could get about 10000 not miles on in before it carped out.
 
Get down underneath and look at the sight picture of the fork coming out of the bell housing. It should be biased toward the drivers/slave-cylinder side.
See pic:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


90% of clutch engagement issues are from poor adjustment.
If your forks in a good position, then bleed your clutch. Then bleed clutch again, and then maybe once more.
Then adjust your master cylinder rod until you can rev the engine up to 6 or 7K without moving the wheels and your pedal engagement is a couple inches off the floor.

Report back. Good luck.
 
If the clutch/FW/PP combo was working in a previous car and nothing was changed when swapping, you have another mechanical/hydraulic problem.
Not putting a fresh clutch set on when you had the chance seems a bit hopeful, especially if you didn't know the exact condition of the current setup.
Make sure the clutch master is adjusted properly, and inspect the slave/fork when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

Search: "Jack's transmissions clutch adjustment", watch the video and check stuff, then report back.
I was also readin that it could be the clutch fork and the reason i didn’t change the clutch assembly out is becuase i love in Canada so it will only be drove 6 months out of the year becuase of salt on the road and I’m building the extra block i have to be ready in 2 years so i figured i could get about 10000 not miles on in before it carped out.
Get down underneath and look at the sight picture of the fork coming out of the bell housing. It should be biased toward the drivers/slave-cylinder side.
See pic:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


90% of clutch engagement issues are from poor adjustment.
If your forks in a good position, then bleed your clutch. Then bleed clutch again, and then maybe once more.
Then adjust your master cylinder rod until you can rev the engine up to 6 or 7K without moving the wheels and your pedal engagement is a couple inches off the floor.

Report back. Good luck.
What should i do if it’s out a bit ??
 
Get down underneath and look at the sight picture of the fork coming out of the bell housing. It should be biased toward the drivers/slave-cylinder side.
See pic:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


90% of clutch engagement issues are from poor adjustment.
If your forks in a good position, then bleed your clutch. Then bleed clutch again, and then maybe once more.
Then adjust your master cylinder rod until you can rev the engine up to 6 or 7K without moving the wheels and your pedal engagement is a couple inches off the floor.

Report back. Good luck.
What should i do if it’s out ?
 
Well.. that's the fun part.
You can:
Pull the trans, slap a new clutch plate and a flywheel (WITH proper step height- this is key) and replace pivot ball and clutch fork with new parts, might as well do the TOB as well.
OR
Pull the trans and properly shim the pivot ball
OR
Somehow get an open-ended wrench up through the fork window and loosen the pivot ball, then add a washer notched to make "C" and tighten it down.
(I've only seen this successfully pulled off in-person one time) thus shimming the pivotball and moving you fork angle over.
OR
Adjust your pedal way out of spec and throw an extended slave rod in at the peril of your synchros. (spoiler alert: I don't recommend doing this unless you want a trans rebuild)
 
@Matts_talon be aware that most of the things suggested by the others would be applicable to grinding & hard to shift troubles. If I understand, your problem is slipping & the clutch in not fully grabbing. There are only a few things that could cause slipping/leak grabbing problems; the clucth diskis is too thin for the flywheel step height or weak springs in the pressure plate. Damaged or out of position fork, pivot ball, hydraulic air bubbles, bleeding would be sources of grinding/shifting problems and do not come into play when you are not stepping on the clutch pedal. The adjustment could be off & over tight putting some preload into the throwout bearing (whining noise) & keeping the pressure plate to fully clamp onto the disc, or the disc is worn too thin. How far is the pedal off the floor before it starts to grab? Is there any free play at the top of the pedal when not being pressed? Start simple, check the pedal adjustment and make sure it's not over adjusted. If the pedal is adjusted properly I believe the tranny will have to come out to find your slipping problem.
 
@Matts_talon be aware that most of the things suggested by the others would be applicable to grinding & hard to shift troubles. If I understand, your problem is slipping & the clutch in not fully grabbing. There are only a few things that could cause slipping/leak grabbing problems; the clucth diskis is too thin for the flywheel step height or weak springs in the pressure plate. Damaged or out of position fork, pivot ball, hydraulic air bubbles, bleeding would be sources of grinding/shifting problems and do not come into play when you are not stepping on the clutch pedal. The adjustment could be off & over tight putting some preload into the throwout bearing (whining noise) & keeping the pressure plate to fully clamp onto the disc, or the disc is worn too thin. How far is the pedal off the floor before it starts to grab? Is there any free play at the top of the pedal when not being pressed? Start simple, check the pedal adjustment and make sure it's not over adjusted. If the pedal is adjusted properly I believe the tranny will have to come out to find your slipping problem.
The whining noise you describe is what i hear but only happens when i fully let the clutch out, can you give me any specifics on how to fix this. I know you said to adjust but which way and how much. Thanks i really apricate it I’m sure that’s what it is
 
What parts in the video are you getting confused with?
 
The whining noise you describe is what i hear but only happens when i fully let the clutch out, can you give me any specifics on how to fix this. I know you said to adjust but which way and how much. Thanks i really apricate it I’m sure that’s what it is

This is why I recommended to search for Jack's transmissions clutch adjustment video, it is specifically for DSM transmissions and clutch hydraulic systems. It will tell you everything you need to know about adjusting your clutch.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top