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1G PCV Check valve mod

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o0GuitarKid0o

Proven Member
1,063
152
Dec 12, 2013
Winnipeg ,MB, MB_Canada
Well after doing 2 boost leak tests my brand new fram check valve was leaking no matter what I did
I own literally 5+ pcv valves for dsms




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so I came up with this due to not being able to find this guy at all locally (pic 2)! And the price was way to high.(the ones at Canadian tire were smaller than the vacume lines on the throttle body and had two differnt sizes on each end) those were 8$. No thanks.
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That Price tho ^^^

so after opening literally 20 fram pcv valves in the store I came up with fram # FV163 for 6$
Also Gave it some black paint so it's not as noticable under the hood.
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I ended up removing the worm clamp and press fit it together using a larger ID vacume line from the intake (super tight fit) and tested it with an air compressor . I WILL BE ADDING A SMALLER CLAMP TO MAKE SURE IT DOESNT LEAK.

The end result was this
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and when you stand farther away you dont even notice it!
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I used two small clamps to hold on the lower line as I do not need or want a boost leak there.

All and all if you cant find those 3/8th check valves like me this fram valve should be easily available. And for 6$ you cant go wrong.

Parts used:
Stock pcv valve
FRAM valve FV163
Stock pcv line to intake cutting required
Stock line that fits the egr valve (bigger and has good thickness and perfect fit and wont collapse under vaccume due to inner pcv line)
Clamps
Paint

It literally costed me only 6$ as I had everything lying around in my trunk to do it

Might make it a tech article after testing it for a week and doing a boost leak test on the weekend.
 
Definitely post how much positive pressure it can hold, especially in frequent boost/vacuum cycles, before the valve comes apart. It is meant for NA vehicles so its sealing ability is limited; the valve is usually always open, just the amount of openness depends on level of vacuum in idle vs cruise/wot.
Definitely dont want a valve coming apart and being sucked inside the manifold.

If it works well and is reliable (fram? uh oh LOL) then those that cant get that Kynar check valve might have an alternative.

Though the Kynar one has a Viton valve too.. and we all love Viton.
 
Definitely post how much positive pressure it can hold, especially in frequent boost/vacuum cycles, before the valve comes apart. It is meant for NA vehicles so its sealing ability is limited; the valve is usually always open, just the amount of openness depends on level of vacuum in idle vs cruise/wot.
Definitely dont want a valve coming apart and being sucked inside the manifold.

If it works well and is reliable (fram? uh oh LOL) then those that cant get that Kynar check valve might have an alternative.

Though the Kynar one has a Viton valve too.. and we all love Viton.
Will do! I'm hoping it's some what durable LOL I got so p##sed off when I did both my boost leak tests that I read about those little valves and could not find one the correct size LOL so I went on a mission LOL

My laser is my daily driver rn so it will have a few heat cycles on it when I do my boost leak test this weekend and if it doesnt work or it does work i'll report back regardless of results .

I have an extra brake booster line with the check valve I wonder..... LOL

Gotta love Fram tho LOL all the ones I tested wouldn't hold anything past like 3-5 psi LOL
 
Nice job on the setup @o0GuitarKid0o !

I did some cheapo plastic check valves first that died almost instantly, then I was going to go with the kynar ones, but found some metal rebuildable ones for a really good deal. Plus they were a bit bigger ID that worked for my catch can setup better.
 
good setup, also niiice valve cover! Those star mitsu's are rare!

Not to go off topic, but really? I have 3 of the star mitsus, one is cracked, also have a mint Hyundai one and another on my red 92 (is hairline cracked :().

I'll have to order some of the kynar check valves, I'd like to test them and check construction quality. After my last check valves popped (we'll below rated pressure, I might add...) I wanted something substantial, so I got these.
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Yeah i was in a pinch I'll order some eventually LOL trying not to use my credit card Haha,
Although if it works then right on LOL .

I like those metal ones though is there a part number for those or are they only available threw the interweb ? Working this weekend on a new house but should he able to squeeze in a boost leak test after work on Sunday LOL
 
@ThunderChild .... care to share where you found those or part numbers?

I know @ThunderChild will correct me if I am wrong, but I think these are the metal units he is using, not sure if it is the same vendor though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-10mm-A...313619?hash=item544e06ae93:g:P1AAAOSwQQtbpFxb

Those certainly look the same, intried to find them on eBay/Amazon originally but couldn't find them, guess they made on there finally! Here's where I got mine from, no part #, but awesome site name.

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I'm sure the eBay ones are the exact same thing. They have a slightly higher crack pressure than I hoped, but have been working well on my car. My pcv can has less oil now, and my fresh air can has about the same as before the check valve. I'm also not getting random little puffs of blue smoke on hard Accel and after idling for long times.
 
good setup, also niiice valve cover! Those star mitsu's are rare!
Thanks ! I actually got a killer deal for it LOL it came off a snapped timing belt evo 3 4g63t, I bought a bumper of buddy and a few weeks later I put my pcv valve in to tight and cracked it and bought the Mitsubishi one for 30$ locally and polished it up when I put my car back to stock (had a n/a motor in a turbo chassis ) now shes all stock with a few minor upgrades
 
They're fine, but a PCV will not help with dipstick popping. Dipstick popping is from crankcase pressure, so all PCVs will be unable to vent enough pressure back to your intake to alleviate. Adding another valve to the mix will just make things "worse". This would replace the PCV.
 
If your PCV valve is leaking boost, yes, this could help with dipstick pop.

On the other hand, it's the crankcase breather (no check valve) that will help alleviate crank case pressure. A properly functioning PCV valve is only open when the intake pressure is less than crankcase pressure, usually when the intake is under vacuum.
 
If your PCV valve is leaking boost, yes, this could help with dipstick pop.

On the other hand, it's the crankcase breather (no check valve) that will help alleviate crank case pressure. A properly functioning PCV valve is only open when the intake pressure is less than crankcase pressure, usually when the intake is under vacuum.
You're correct, I was thinking one thing and writing another. The goal of what I was writing was "this check valve in conjunction with a PCV valve". My assumption was a functioning PCV system was already in place.
 
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