The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G 98' Engine into 96' chassis wiring harness

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chris_Guthrie

Probationary Member
23
2
May 19, 2019
Yale, Virginia
Hey guys, I've been finding a lot of information o here that has been really helpful to me with getting this car together. Let me give you so background so you know what I have going on. So I picked up this 96' gst chassis as basically a rolling shell. This thing had apparently been parted out at some point as it was missing almost everything under ththe hood as well as a few extra pieces that were MIA or needed replacement.

So nonow I'm in the process of putting it all together. I sourced pretty much everything I needed, and have it together for the most part. Few more things before I can try to start it for the first time, and I'm looking for some professional advice to help me get the rest of the way there.

First set of issues, the engine wiring harness. using the harness from the 96' chassis, but have a 98' engine I put in. There are some plugs that I have no idea where they go, as well as some places that need connections that dont seem to have them. Theres 1 plug on the harness that branches off of where the ac compressor connector is, its orange, and I have no idea where it goes. Theres 2 plugs by the fuse box that I have nowhere to out. And there is also 2 wires on the alternator harness that have been cut and have nothing attached and not sure if they need to go to something also. Those two are (what looks like) tan or faded yellow, and yellow/red stripe. They have no connector and I see nowhere they would go. Also, there is a part I have no idea what plugs into it, located underneath the intake manifold on the drivers side, looks like its bolted to a bracket that comes off the cylinder head on the firewall side of the engine. Pics will be included soon.

2nd issue, vacuum lines. Most of the sources on the tb have been blocked off, so I only have a few outlets on the manifold I have no idea which hoses go where. Not currently running egr, would like to run the evap unless you guys suggest otherwise, but I am going to be running everything as close to stock as I can so if I have issues later I will know where everything is supposed to go.

Last thing, is regarding the exhaust I have a full 3" turbo back exhaust and I can not for ththe life of me get the muffler flange to line up with the catback. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. I have already been through all of the resources I could find here including the 2g engine bay electrical connections thread, but can not find this information anywhere.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
96 has the cam angle sensor by the intake cam gear, the 98 has the cam sensor on the opposite side (tranny side) of the head.
the grey plug in the first pic is for the cam sensor.

the black looks like its for the crank sensor. wires will be (black), (blue/white), (red)

since the ac and coil pack use the same plug, here is the colors for the wiring on them.

a/c. wires will be (white/green), (green/red), (black/white)
coil pack, (blue/black), (blue/red), (black/white)

when using a 2gb cam sensor with a 2ga ecu, you need to swap your wires like:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
96 has the cam angle sensor by the intake cam gear, the 98 has the cam sensor on the opposite side (tranny side) of the head.
the grey plug in the first pic is for the cam sensor.

the black looks like its for the crank sensor. wires will be black, blue/white, red
otherwise its for the a/c. wires will be white/green, green/red, black/white

Thanks for the fast reply! I'll take a look when I get home and report back
 
fuel pressure solenoid
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
looks like maybe the coolant level switch on the over flow tank
actually i think it may be for the wastegate solenoid. WG sol. wires are (red/yellow), (red)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
here is the wiring for the alternator

pin 1 (white)
pin 2 (red)
pin 3 (black/yellow)
pin 4 (green)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
1998 evap purge solenoid

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


the 98 solenoid has a different plug so you may want to try and use the 96 solenoid if you want the evap system working

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
I think you are spot on with the cam angle sensor and crank sensor.

The one you mentioned as the coolant level, my overflow does not have anything on it to connect to, my guess on that one would that would be the wastegate solenoid (which I do not have and am wondering if that will be an issue in itself or is it okay to run without one).

The evap solenoid you showed is a big relief. That's good so I dont have to worry about the 98 one.

The wires for the alternator harness, the ones I were referencing came off of that harness, one looks like it's for the oil sender unit (supposed to have a connector similar to the coolant temp switch) and the one that plugs into the part near the oil filter (same style conector). My only question on that is, what does the oil sander connector plug into? My oil sender only has a thumbtack looking deal coming off the end and nothing for a wire or a pinned wire to connect to.

One last thing for the connectors, the one on my third pic, would I be correct in assuming that might be for something like the windshield washer pump, of which I do not have? I think that'sthe last connector I dont know what it goes to.

Thanks for all of the help, a lot of this it looks like I overlooked on the electrical connector thread mostly because I didnt know what a lot of these solenoids are called so its kind of hard to figure out what goes to what when you dont even know what half of looks like, but I think I'm on the right track now so thanks again for all of your help. Going to the junkyard Tuesday to pick up a pigtail for the 98 style cas, I think I should be able to find the wiring swap info for that so man big relief
 
yeah i realized it was the wastegate solenoid maybe like an hour later and fixed it. you might wanna go back over my posts cause i might have edited a few of them.

on the alternator It looked like they were coming out of the alternator plug.

The oil pressure switch is the single (yellow) wire.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



===============================

oil pressure sending unit (for gauge) -single (yellow/red) wire.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.




You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
generator relay

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


--

if you didn't know, the manual uses the letter L as the color code for blue. i pointed it out with the blue arrow in the diagram.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Awesome, dude you are the man. Went back through the edited posts and the new post you made, 100%exactly what I needed to know.

Now with the generator relay, I have nothing that plugs up there. I will check again when I get home today to see but I didnt notice anything that I can plug that into last night. I'm assuming I need the relay for that.

But as far as the muffler issue, from what I found last night while searching is that the exhaust will need to be installed from the back of the car, forward, instead of front to back. Can anyone confirm this? Or has anyone else had fitment issues with the ebay 3" catback fitment? I think that is the last thing I'll need to get this car running, that and the mount the power steering pump bolts to. Heading to the junkyard tomorrow after work to see if I can find another mitsubishi that might have the cas pigtail I need, as well as some of the connectors for the oil pressure switch and oil sender and coolant temp switch and I should be able to fire her up here soon.

One last thing, I am running a 98 engine with a 98 ecu in my 96 chassis, with the 98 cas, I assume the stock setup would work for the ignition/ fuel injectors, but I'm not sure if how it's set up on the car now is right. Can anyone confirm how the plug wires go from the coils to the plugs?
 
if you are using the 98 ecu and 98 CAS you don't need to swap the wires for your spark plugs. I assumed you were using a 96 ecu

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Awesome, and yes I've sourced everything engine related for a 98' that includes engine sensors and ecu, the only real issue I had is the engine harness is the one that came with the car which was a 96'. I assumed that it would be similar to a 420a swap which requires nothing, never knew that 4gs changed so much between 2ga and 2gb until I went to start putting everything together. Looks like I need to stop assuming. Lol. But good news is that with the information I was able to find on here, as well as the much needed information you helped me with, this thing should be done hopefully soon. I built this from a rolling chassis and so to finally have it at this point is just a huge relief. It would have been done much sooner but I painted it before I started the engine work with the intention of doing the engine bay too, but plans changed and I ended up needing to get it running sooner than expected.

Just for satisfaction, I'm going to throw up the before and during pics here, then I'll throw up the after pic once it's all done. So, here ya go in case you or anyone else is interested in what a $2500 budget build looks like for me. Still waiting on a few more parts like axle and someother bits to finish up the intercooler etc, but you see where this is going. Full 2ga to 2gb conversion, I'll get that boomerang spoiler once I get iton theroad and of course paint that to match but here is what I have so far.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
- The generator relay is often smashed and missing. However it is just a backup for the dash charge light in case it burns out. The alternator will not put out without one of the two working. So if your dash charge light is working you don't have to have the generator relay.

- Here are the 95-96 configuration diagrams: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/plugs-not-plugged-into-anything-help.396529/#post-152512679

- Here are the 98-99 configuration diagrams and some other info: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/w...-99-engine-bay-harness.493411/#post-153519453

- Here are the 2g engine bay connectors: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

- Here are some 2ga vs 2gb differences: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wiring-harness-question.457023/#post-153198185

- BTW please don't post pics of this large file size (example: not over 1 MB - you both have many pics even over 2MB). It takes me forever to display them especially so many (we all don't have cable speeds). 100-500k usually displays just fine - even 50k for small pics.
 
Last edited:
i try to resize stuff but im forgetful, specially when im trying to do 5 different things at the same time. Is there any way to restrict upload size to 1MB or less? that way i can't forget and everyone is happy.

and
(we all don't have cable speeds).
thats hilarious. I was super happy yesterday cause it didn't take me 1 1/2 hrs to download the new 1punch man episode like it did last week. I have to try and get a signal from the apts like a block away. Sometimes i can't get a signal for days at a time or its so slow that i timeout before the site loads.
200k is fast for my connection.
 
Luv2rallye, sorry about the pic size. I wont do that moving forward. The info for the generator relay, exactly what I was just about to ask so thanks for that. Last couple things and i think i should be good to go, I've been trying to source this p/s bracket, anyone have any idea where to find this I've searched everyehere and i cant find one to save my life.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Man you guys are on your stuff here. My old days on 2gnt, nicoclub, etc, those guys got nothing on yall. Thanks for all of the help boys.

Btw, cant remember if I said this already but I had read that installing the exhaust muffler up would fix my issue with that alignment, that wawas true. Took everything loose after the downpipe and started on the muffler end and although very tight, everything bolted up like it's supposed to.

Currently just waiting on a 1g bov and UI pipe and I should be ready to fire it up. Once that bracket comes in that's the last thing I need to get it on the road. I'm sure I'll likely run into some issues between now and then so I'll probably be posting back soon but thanks you guys for everything I couldnt have gotten this far without your help seriously
 
Okay so quick update, I pretty much got everything together. Ran into a couple more issues I wanted to run by you guys and see what the suggested route to go here would be.

First issue, I can not get the clutch bled to save my life. I went so far as to get a new clutch master and slave cylinders, a vacuum bleeding kit, and still cant figure it out. Watched every video, read every tutorial (not that I dont know what I'm doing it just isn't working). As of yesterday I was finally able to get some (very very little) pressure on to the clutch pedal, but it's so little pressure it almost falls about halfway down then at the end of the stroke it's so firm I have to almost stand on it to get it down.

2nd, more pressing issue, was able to get it to the point of being able to turn the engine over. At first it turned over slow but it turned, slowly it turning over got slower and slower until it doesnt move anymore. Nowwhen I hit the key to start, I hear what sounds like the full pump on the whole time in the start position, a click up front, and no more turning. Initial thought battery died. Put my big jump box on it in the start position, same thing. Next thought would be starter. Although it's possible I may have gotten water in a cylinder or 2 while I was waiting to drop the motor in, today I'm going to pull the plugs and see if it shoots any water up, if not I'm going to see if i jump the starter if anything happens. Really hoping this motor isn't locked up. Last thing I want to do is pull it out after it took so long to get it in and everything hooked up. So, suggestions are welcome guys.
 
Okay so finally had a little time yesterday to mess with the car a little. Here what I found, the engine is not locked. I was able to turn it over with a ratchet so that's good. I did remove the starter yesterday also, going to take that to get it tested after work today.

Seems like the big problem I have now is with the clutch hydraulics. I spent another 2hrs bleeding. There has to be air being sucked into the system somewhere as I can get about half pressure on the clutch the way it should be. About mid stroke, it catches pressure and works as normal. So has to be air there right? Well, I bench bled the master and slave, I've gravity bled it, I vacuum bled it, I hand bled it, I kept bleeding and bleeding and cant get it to achieve enough pressure on it's own to return the pedal by itself. The only thing returning the pedal is the spring. it has pressure up until it gets to the spring tension a little past halfway up the stroke, then nothing but spring. Am I missing something here?

The only thing I can think is when I vacuum bleed it, I see a mess of air bubbles coming out of the bleeder, and I'm guessing its sucking air in around the threads when I loosen ththe bleeder, so next time I'm going to take that out and teflon it, put it back in, ziptie the slave all the way in and sit the pedal onthe floor, then gravity bleed it until it's just fluid, pull the pedal up slow (should pressurize the master), then cut the zip tie which should pressurize the slave... aside from that, I cant think of anything else. Theres no leaks anywhere, so fingers crossed that works.

Then it's off to hope this starter is bad so I can finally try to get this thing cranked. Surprisingly, everything else works, sunroof, windows, lights (with exception to the reverse lights and license plate lights of which I shouldn't have a problem getting those together so hopefully, all will go well and I'll have her at least driveable soon).
 
The only thing I can think is when I vacuum bleed it, I see a mess of air bubbles coming out of the bleeder, and I'm guessing its sucking air in around the threads when I loosen ththe bleeder, so next time I'm going to take that out and teflon it, put it back in, ziptie the slave all the way in and sit the pedal onthe floor, then gravity bleed it until it's just fluid, pull the pedal up slow (should pressurize the master), then cut the zip tie which should pressurize the slave... aside from that, I cant think of anything else. Theres no leaks anywhere, so fingers crossed that works.

If you see anything coming out of the bleeder when your vacuum bleeding somethings not right. I have a feeling that the way you are vacuum bleeding is different from how i do it.. Are you pulling a vacuum on the reservoir then pumping the hell out of the pedal a bunch of times?

You should probably read over the RRE clutch page ,there are a few things you should know .

take a look at this how to:
http://eatsleepdsmmag.com/how-to-bleed-your-clutch/

step 10 on that write up may be the thing that your missing.
 
Alright guys, still havent had time to mess with the clutch any, but I did get a few mins the other day to put the new starter on. To my surprise, started right up like it just was running the day before. Idles smooth and everything. Going to work on that clutch tomorrow, I just wanted to take a minute and thank you all for helping me with this. Spending all this money and not knowing if anything I was buying was good, and to have it start right up and run great, such a huge relief. I do have to go back and do the water pump, its leaking down the timing cover, but other than that I think I'm pretty much good to go now. So thanks everyone, seriously. Couldnt have done it without your help and the help from the information on this forum
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top