Greetings,

its that time for a new clutch, due to inexperience from previous owner and cheapo ebay parts used when they did it.
it currently has a Stage 2 F1 clutch and aluminum fly wheel, i have no clue on this, however i was looking into the southbend stage 3 street but unsure if that will be to much, or will be ok for the time being in my set up. I have not dyno'd it yet so i do not know any numbers or even have a rough clue on what it is possibly making right not, but here is a list of known mods. any help would be appreciated, its been a while. Thanks In Advance...

AFPR
255l Fuel Pump
550 Injectors
Injen Intake
Big 16g Gretty
Greddy Type R/S BOV
3 Inch full exhaust
FMIC
Manual boost controller (set at about 25psi)
F1 Stage 2 Clutch
Aluminum Fly wheel.

I am currently running the South Bend SSX pressure plate with the B-series full face ceramic disk and I love it. Doesn't have any chatter and engages smooth, its not too heavy on the foot, and it is holding everything I throw at it so far.

I recommend purchasing your clutch from @twicks69 at TMZ performance if you decide to go with Southbend. Tim is awesome to deal with and is very knowledgeable. He has helped me out in a pinch multiple times in the past and has always offered me good information.

I was on a Southbend also and it has great pedal feel and a good clamp. I should have went with the heavier PP tho with my power levels, as I found the torque break point at 515. She just wouldn't hold any more torque than that.
Moving to a QM Twin when it gets put back together, but a SouthBend from Tim will be good for you.
I loved the pedal feel, nice and almost stockish feel.

Another vote for South bend and @twicks69 I ended up getting mine elsewhere and wish I hadn't, but a stage 3 daily and SS pressure plate was what I got,
Tim has the SSX pressure plates.
I'd also recommend the comp chromoly flyhweel and forged clutch fork while you're doing things.

If I could go back, I think I might have stayed with a stock flywheel but did like @ThunderChild suggested and got the lightweight flywheel. Why? The heavier flywheel stores more energy for a launch and seemed easier to drive in traffic, but now I just have to push the right pedal a little more to get the car moving.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

If I could go back, I think I might have stayed with a stock flywheel but did like @ThunderChild suggested and got the lightweight flywheel. Why? The heavier flywheel stores more energy for a launch and seemed easier to drive in traffic, but now I just have to push the right pedal a little more to get the car moving.

Click to expand...

I considered staying stock, but I know mine was questionable when I first got the car going, and I've beat it pretty hard. I didn't want a lightweight FW necessarily, but I couldn't find a NOS or good shape used one that wasn't going to cost more than a new aftermarket one. I also didn't want an aluminum one for the aforementioned drivability issues, and the chromoly is the middle ground: slightly lighter, but steal and quality.

There are stock style flywheels out there, more than when I bought my stuff, but they're anywhere from $100 used (need surfaced) to $200 ready to go, so I opted for competitions unit

That is almost the same reason I did it too Henry.

I would do a Competition Clutch street chromoly steel flywheel (2-735-1ST 6 bolt AWD, 2-735-2ST 6 bolt FWD, 2-735-3ST 7 bolt AWD, 2-735-4ST 7 bolt FWD) with an OEM TOB (MD749998), Competition Clutch forged clutch fork (5048-FRK), and then new flywheel bolts (21.2mm bolts for 7 bolt - MD302074 x7 / 22.5mm bolts for 6 bolt - 2795A956 x6). TOB clip is MD706185.

For clutches, it is going to depend on your driving style, usage of vehicle, and power levels.

1. If you are just street driving the car and want the most mileage out of the clutch, I would do a SS series pressure plate with TZ-series full kevlar disk kit. You are not doing heavy abuse, track launches, etc. on this disk if you want it to last and not get glazed / slip.

2. If you are street driving and do street launches with it, I would do a SS series pressure plate with TZ/B dual friction Kevlar/Ceramic disk kit.

3. If you are being pretty abusive with mainly street driving, I would do a SS series pressure plate with B-series full ceramic disk kit.

4. If you are planning on turning up the boost and will be very irregularly hitting the track doing launches on prepped surfaces, and still want the most streetability out of the car, and have it drive like a stock clutch, then I would do the SS-X pressure plate with TZ/B dual friction Kevlar/Ceramic disk kit.

5. If you are planning on abusing it regularly, hitting the track, daily driving, and turning up the power, then i would strongly recommend going with a SS-X pressure plate and B-series full face ceramic disk kit.

Any other questions?

Clutches mentioned can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...ishi-galant-vr4-1992-1995-mitsubishi-evo-1-3/

Flywheel mentioned can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/competition-clutch-street-chromoly-steel-flywheels/

Clutch fork mentioned can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/competition-clutch-forged-steel-clutch-fork/

OEM parts can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/product-category/oem/oem-mits-parts/

Thanks,

Tim Zimmer
TMZ Performance

I also recommend the Southbend clutch. I have nothing but praise for the pedal feel & the reliability.

But I would suggest getting an ACT Streetlite flywheel few a few more bucks over the Competition Clutch flywheel. When I did my clutch a few years back I got the CC flywheel & out of the box the step height was short causing me engagement & drag issues. I had to contact Competition Clutch & they were worthless with any help to correct the step but were more than happy to charge me for fixing it. I bought another flywheel from MAP, an ACT this time, & the step measured almost prefect, dead-nuts out of the box @ .609+ & all was good.

Often overlooked, but a chromoly flywheel will not hold as much torque as a flywheel with a softer friction surface such as a stock iron, or an aluminum flywheel with a steel insert. The chromo is too hard and a disc can't bite into it as well.

I've always been a ACT guy, but just because I'd run used shit that most people throw away, and it was easier to get ACT stuff that way.

Anyway current new ACT stuff is made from SEECO parts....the same stuff the cheap china ebay clutches are.

The my brother has a SBC SSX (i think) in his gvr4, and it appears to be made from EXCEDY parts.....same stuff as the OEM clutches. It's got the kevlar disc, and it's a 20g on E85. We'll see how it holds up when he gets it running soon.

thank you all for your input,i do think Twicks69 suggestion option #4 may be the way i will go for the time being, just need to decide if i am gonna keep her FWD withe a LSD or do the AWD conversion.

bastarddsm said:

Often overlooked, but a chromoly flywheel will not hold as much torque as a flywheel with a softer friction surface such as a stock iron, or an aluminum flywheel with a steel insert. The chromo is too hard and a disc can't bite into it as well.

Click to expand...

I wasn't readily aware of this! Curious if different surface finish/RA could be done on a chromo FW to offset this?

All I do is simply media blast the flywheel with a 80/120-grit aluminum oxide blast media to change the RA of the surface and that is what I recommend for people using organic or Kevlar disks on a chromoly flywheel. The ceramic and feramic frictions don't need this done.

twicks69 said:

I would do a Competition Clutch street chromoly steel flywheel (2-735-1ST 6 bolt AWD, 2-735-2ST 6 bolt FWD, 2-735-3ST 7 bolt AWD, 2-735-4ST 7 bolt FWD) with an OEM TOB (MD749998), Competition Clutch forged clutch fork (5048-FRK), and then new flywheel bolts (21.2mm bolts for 7 bolt - MD302074 x7 / 22.5mm bolts for 6 bolt - 2795A956 x6). TOB clip is MD706185.

For clutches, it is going to depend on your driving style, usage of vehicle, and power levels.

1. If you are just street driving the car and want the most mileage out of the clutch, I would do a SS series pressure plate with TZ-series full kevlar disk kit. You are not doing heavy abuse, track launches, etc. on this disk if you want it to last and not get glazed / slip.

2. If you are street driving and do street launches with it, I would do a SS series pressure plate with TZ/B dual friction Kevlar/Ceramic disk kit.

3. If you are being pretty abusive with mainly street driving, I would do a SS series pressure plate with B-series full ceramic disk kit.

4. If you are planning on turning up the boost and will be very irregularly hitting the track doing launches on prepped surfaces, and still want the most streetability out of the car, and have it drive like a stock clutch, then I would do the SS-X pressure plate with TZ/B dual friction Kevlar/Ceramic disk kit.

5. If you are planning on abusing it regularly, hitting the track, daily driving, and turning up the power, then i would strongly recommend going with a SS-X pressure plate and B-series full face ceramic disk kit.

Any other questions?

Clutches mentioned can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...ishi-galant-vr4-1992-1995-mitsubishi-evo-1-3/

Flywheel mentioned can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/competition-clutch-street-chromoly-steel-flywheels/

Clutch fork mentioned can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/competition-clutch-forged-steel-clutch-fork/

OEM parts can be found here - https://www.tmzperformance.com/product-category/oem/oem-mits-parts/

Thanks,

Tim Zimmer
TMZ Performance

Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay on this reply, and thank you in advance for the awesome information you gave me to ponder over. As said #4 is where i am sitting at in projected use. my question is on the flywheel option, (Competition Clutch Street Chromoly Steel Flywheel), should i do the blasted surface due to the Kevlar material in the clutch? and just gotta ask,... offer a Veteran Discount?

The pressure plate will be media blasted on a TZ/B setup, and the flywheel does not need media blasting.

Sorry, I do not offer veteran discounts.