The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G Throttle plate position

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MasterMatt209

Proven Member
473
30
Jan 17, 2015
Danville, Indiana
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
For a while now I have been chasing why my car starts up and goes straight to 2k rpm. Long story short I was inspecting my throttle body and the pictures I am attaching is with a light behind the plate. To me it looks like a lot of light showing through, this is the plate as far as it will go without the stop screw. Any input is helpful I did rebuild the throttle body before because I was getting a lot of air thought the seals.
 
@MasterMatt209
Did you take the pic while you were disassembling the throttle body, right? Because in the pic, the throttle body doesn't have the ISC and FIAV is wide open. If you don't have it, that's the issue.
If you have it, then fix all vacuum leak, connect two coolant lines and try to adjust the BISS, throttle cable, stop screw, the TPS and the base ignition timing properly and see if the idle speed gets proper.

I did huge the FIAV off, isc has oem o ring. Also are you saying I should flip the plate upside down?
 
Also are you saying I should flip the plate upside down?
No, I am not saying that. I am saying that you should install the throttle body properly and adjust everything, then see how it works.
 
Replaced throttle body and the car finally runs smoothly and idled around 1k. Just did the first start up and I’m happy

That's good. I'd do some investigation/fiddling with the original throttle body to see if you can figure out the throttle plate issue.
 
That's good. I'd do some investigation/fiddling with the original throttle body to see if you can figure out the throttle plate issue.

I will, definitely not gonna get rid of it or anything like that. Thank you to everyone that contributed in helping me I appreciate it!
 
In all honesty man, I would take advantage of this "excuse" to get a 1g throttle body from the junkyard. Just make sure to get new biss screw and tb seals wich can be bought for less than 10 dollars and installed in less than 10 minutes
 
Coolant somehow got on my throttle bodie sprink and now ot wont move.... also how dos the throttle cable hook up.. i have alot of slack in my cable. Any and all help would be appreciateda!!
The tension is correct I know the mark is contradicting[/QUOT
 
The cable can be adjusted with 2 10mm bolts that hold it to the intake manifold. Loosen those 2 bolts and slide your cable one way or another, leaving a little slack, and then retighten those bolts. The slack will be minimal but should have just a tad bit.
 
I was searching for something else and ran across this, I know this is an old thread but thought I'd reply with my 2 cents for anyone who might run into this issue in the future. In my own experience after a TB rebuild first making sure to align and properly adjust the plate is the first step. You may need to do the same after a TB cleaning since you're removing what was there keeping a seal in the first place. Sometimes aligning and adjusting is enough but sometimes it's not and you still have too much gap which lets too much air in causing high or inconsistent idle. At this point sure you can replace the throttle body altogether and hopefully the new junkyard find is in better shape than your original piece or you can ship it to max bore (max bore.com) and they'll replace your plate with a new custom made one and put it all back together for you with new o rings etc and it's like getting a new TB for a fee of course.
But one option I found to be time and cost effective and has given me great results over the years that I either first read about on this forum or another many many years ago is this product here: LPS DRY MOLY LUBRICANT
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Take your throttle body off and clean it. Then spray this product on the front and back of the plate making sure you get the plate edges. Let it dry and apply a few more coats. Once it dries open and close the plate to free it up and create the proper seals before re installing it and to make sure you got rid of all the light coming in through the gap. That's it, you will see a night and day difference.
I'm not an expert on what dry moly lubricant is or does, how it works, or why the source I got this information from decided to try it in the first place but it works great. It dries and forms a barrier or seal around the plate edges so when the plate closes it doesn't have the gap. Is this a bandaid? Perhaps but a bandaid is short term and this stuff stays on forever unless you remove it intentionally so if it is a bandaid then it's a bad ass bandaid. I hope this helps someone at some point.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top