gofer said:

I'm confused at what scenario you'd be racing your car but driving normal and not want NLTS or antilag? Those settings are only active inside the parameters you set, the parameters of them are the "switch" that activates them.

Click to expand...

Mham2k said:

Ok I might just be missing something.

My main concern is antilag between shifts, I want to play with this sometimes but don't want to go to my laptop and turn it off and on all the time.

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I have played with antilag at launch, but I haven't played it between shifts.

Is it always on between shifts if I check this box?
If it is, that would be annoying, I never take the car to the track just drive it when it's nice and step on it when the urge comes. Don't want to find the check box on the laptop whenever I want it on.

I currently have my clutch switch unhooked, so it does nothing when press the clutch.

If antilag and nlts are on constantly unless the box is checked, it would be nice to use the clutch switch when I want to use them instead of having to open my laptop and uncheck boxes. Hence wiring the clutch switch to a button when I shift to make the ecu trigger antilag when I want.

Am I still missing something?

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gofer said:

Yea, you're missing a few things here actually but you don't know what you don't know and we've all had to learn so it isn't your fault. The first and most important is what you're calling your clutch switch. There are two switches on your clutch pedal assembly, one at the top (used for cruise control) and one at the bottom (used to start the car). The one I'm guessing you've disconnected is the one at the bottom, used for starting the car. The actual clutch switch, at least what ECMLink refers to as the clutch switch, is the one at the top of the pedal used for your cruise control so you can leave the one at the bottom disconnected and still use NLTS/ALS or two-step. I personally wired my NLTS cable to the clutch switch at the bottom of the pedal assy. (used to start the car) and just inverted the signal using ECMLink (the Misc. tab has this option) since I found it easier to launch my car using the signal at the bottom of the pedal rather than at the top because it allows me to slip the clutch more coming off the line.

The settings are literal and each must be true to activate ALS.

Enable antilag with TPS > = 43%
Use launch control with RPM > = 3900rpm

...and speed < 5mph​

Use clutch cut with speed > = 20mph​

So, antilag for launching your car only activates if you're giving it equal to or more than 43% throttle, it's @ 3900rpm or higher, and you're going less than 5mph. The "during shifts" box will use the TPS position and the clutch cut with speed settings, along with your clutch switch (at the top of the pedal for cruise control), to require it to activate between shifts. Currently, if you activate ALS between shifts, you'll have to be giving it equal to or more than 43% throttle and going more than 20mph.

I recommend going to the ALS tab (where you took that screen shot) and in the bottom right-hand corner of the screen you'll see a ? inside of a yellow circle.

With all that being said, after looking at your car's profile you have a 20g so I recommend installing NLTS and only use two-step to launch. Activating ALS (antilag) is unnecessary with your current setup. With two-step you should be able to build 8-10psi off the line running it 4750 - 5000 rpm and NLTS will be able to maintain a healthy amount of boost between gears without the use of ALS.

Click to expand...

gofer said:

Yea, you're missing a few things here actually but you don't know what you don't know and we've all had to learn so it isn't your fault. The first and most important is what you're calling your clutch switch. There are two switches on your clutch pedal assembly, one at the top (used for cruise control) and one at the bottom (used to start the car). The one I'm guessing you've disconnected is the one at the bottom, used for starting the car. The actual clutch switch, at least what ECMLink refers to as the clutch switch, is the one at the top of the pedal used for your cruise control so you can leave the one at the bottom disconnected and still use NLTS/ALS or two-step. I personally wired my NLTS cable to the clutch switch at the bottom of the pedal assy. (used to start the car) and just inverted the signal using ECMLink (the Misc. tab has this option) since I found it easier to launch my car using the signal at the bottom of the pedal rather than at the top because it allows me to slip the clutch more coming off the line.

The settings are literal and each must be true to activate ALS.

Enable antilag with TPS > = 43%
Use launch control with RPM > = 3900rpm

...and speed < 5mph​

Use clutch cut with speed > = 20mph​

So, antilag for launching your car only activates if you're giving it equal to or more than 43% throttle, it's @ 3900rpm or higher, and you're going less than 5mph. The "during shifts" box will use the TPS position and the clutch cut with speed settings, along with your clutch switch (at the top of the pedal for cruise control), to require it to activate between shifts. Currently, if you activate ALS between shifts, you'll have to be giving it equal to or more than 43% throttle and going more than 20mph.

I recommend going to the ALS tab (where you took that screen shot) and in the bottom right-hand corner of the screen you'll see a ? inside of a yellow circle.

With all that being said, after looking at your car's profile you have a 20g so I recommend installing NLTS and only use two-step to launch. Activating ALS (antilag) is unnecessary with your current setup. With two-step you should be able to build 8-10psi off the line running it 4750 - 5000 rpm and NLTS will be able to maintain a healthy amount of boost between gears without the use of ALS.

Click to expand...