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2G Stiff brake pedal, barely stopping

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turbomoe

15+ Year Contributor
86
0
Oct 2, 2007
LINCOLN PARK, Michigan
Okay I've did all the research I can, but here's my issue, I recently did a motor swap and i got the car to drive, and now it won't stop:banghead:

Issues that I am having are:
1. Brake pedal is hard as a rock and doesn't even go more than a inch down
2. I can barley stop
3. I hear like a brake squeak Ina rear, feels like car is dragging a little bit

What I have done so far
1: blead brake calipers and master
2: replaced check valve
3: replaced front brakes
4:banged my head agnist wall,

What else can I do,?
 
Check the brake booster. Either the actual brake booster or the check valve on the line that supplies vacuum to it. If the brake booster is shot you should hear an hiss coming from the brake pedal area when you try to push the pedal down.
 
You say you replaced the check valve. What do you mean by this, as the check valve is permanently pressed into the hose going from the booster to the manifold? You did a motor swap, so I believe that what has happened is that the booster hose was hooked up backwards, thereby preventing the booster from seeing vacuum, and allowing pressure into the booster under boost conditions. Take the end of the hose off the booster side and you should be able to blow into the hose. Now, take the end off the intake manifold side and you should not be able to blow into the booster.
 
Okay there is no hissing sound from inside, the pedal doesn't move any, my 1st issue was I just ran a regular line with no check valve, then I place a new line with check valve, and still verry hard, but I will test it to make sure I have it on the right way and I will post my results,

I checked the hose and valve, it in perfected and works good! Anything else?

Any help?
 
Did you ever get this resolved? I am having the exact same problems with my car. I installed a motor with a SMIM and I put on a regular hose and then replaced with with the OE with the check valve and still no dice.
 
Did you guys actually build full boost without the check valve? If you did you most likely ripped the diaphragm in side the booster.
 
I never got into boost as my car was not tuned. I just drove it around the subdivision and braking was a b1tch.
 
I'm having a similar issue finally got it running and took my first test drive and brakes where fine and now the pedal will not move but an inch Ebrake works but the diaphragm is torn but I have an rs non turbo
 
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