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Clutch pedal stop (pics)

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____Kurt____

10+ Year Contributor
400
12
Jul 14, 2009
North, New_Jersey
After looking around for some pictures and ideas on a clutch pedal stop I have come up short handed. I figured I could make one and post some pictures to help others out that aren't sure where to start with this. I took a piece of 1/2 stock, drilled and tapped for a m10 bolt. This will be welded to the actual pedal. I then took a piece 3/16 stock and welded that to the bracket as a pad for the bolt to hit against. I used a rectangular piece so as you adjust the bolt its going to still be hitting the pad.
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Please excuse my apparent ignorance, but what's the purpose of this? I'm guessing avoidance of unnecessary travel in a racing situation? If so, it would have to be very carefully set relative to the actual clutch disengagement point.

I don't race, but for me, it's important to have the pedal set low enough to allow proper clutch operation while avoiding excess travel -- coming from the other direction maybe? Course, the pedal position can't be so low that it messes with normal over-center return spring operation.
 
I am running a PTT twin disk clutch and the engagement window is smaller than a single disk so over extending the clutch fingers is possible without a properly set pedal stop. The clutch manufacturer highly suggests a pedal stop install along with an Isuzu slave cylinder. The pedal should be set to stop right after the clutch is disengaged. Over extension to the pressure plate fingers can severely damage the clutch.
 
I see, thanks for the explanation -- looks a clean bit of work :)!
 
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Boostin Performance directed me to this post. Thanks for making it. I'll need to do the same thing on my 2g here asap. Not sure if the pedal assembly comes out as easily but sure hope so.
 
I made my own yesterday. I only have a $100 Flux core welder and didn't wanna pull the pedal assembly out. Decided to pull the master cylinder instead. Took out the push rod, threaded the entire rod, then welded 2 washers together to 2 nuts and screwed that onto the rod. Working great and adjustment is at the same place as the clutch pedal adjustment. The washer hits against the master cylinder housing and only allows it to travel so far....obviously. Way easier than pulling the entire pedal assembly out though
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WOw, you guys are waaaaaaayyy overthinking this. I use a 3/8" piece of plywood under the carpet. It's held down with duct tape. Use different wood thickness to your liking.

Cost = nothing, you probably have scrap laying around
Installation time = 2 min
Cons = NONE
 
Lol, I'm wondering if you're serious or just really that cheap and car is held together by chewing gum and duct tape.
 
Of course I'm serious, yeah, let's get out the CNC lathe and measure down to the micro meter and spend 10 hours building something that keeps the clutch pedal from raveling too far.

Don't be butt hurt because mine is better, cheaper, easier, and faster than your idea. Let's see I have had this there since, 2015 so I'd say it works. You know it's under a lot of pressure, I think I can leg press 300lbs...but that is with both feet.
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I totally don't get where my idea took a CNC lathe (nor the original poster) and took hours to build. Took me maybe an hour and isn't very complicated at all. 2 washers and 3 nuts I just had laying around. But okay man, you win. Can we get back on topic now?
 
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