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ECMlink First time tuning with link, need a little help.

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Just food for thoughts. I had massive knock for few years. I could not tune it out. I am not very good at tuning but I try. Anyways I one day found out that my wideband is not logging correctly and it was a whole point off. So I was targeting 11 and was getting a 10. Looking on the gauge dont mean sh!t. The wideband wont show anything in the 9 afr. It will always show 10 I beliave. The estimate afr were way off from actual. So One day I try to plug in the numbers from the sheet instead. And what I found that their is such thing as rich knock. I set up liniar wideband as the instruction here on tuners but then I found the original sheet from the gauge and plug those numbers in. Since than I do get knock but not as crazy as before. By the way I never look at your log so I can not judge how your tune is. Just try to plug in the numbers from the sheet that belongs to the gauge. If you dont have it then try to identify the gauge that you have and contact aem for the correct one or search online but beware I beliave their are few different sheets flowing around.
 
Ok, Here are pics of the plugs, the BP7es were yanked as soon as possible after a pull. Theyre super orange, I think that's the octane booster. I got a fresh set on BPR7es, as it seemed like the BP7es didn't run as well. So those are in. I also used lock in closed loop and my max oct table to force the car to a 17.7 and a 10.0 afr, logged those values on rawlinwb, and popped them in my linWB. The result looks almost the same on the computer, but after exhaustive (and sketchy) filming of my laptop and gauge while driving, it is now more accurate at the 9-10 range where it matters, and 14.7 is still dead on. Idle switching is still perfect. So I defaulted to timing and moxoct tables from tk106 and i'm getting 2.5* and breakup at 5k. It was never breaking up with the old plugs. I have more plugs because I bought out my parts store for ngks haha so I might have to experiment there, but I think my mafcomp just needs dialed in a bit more and I'll be in the ballpark. Here's logs, I got a 3-cel-4th pull. I'm off to get more logs and data. I'm going to sit there and force my idle in open loop to various afrs and verify the gauge further. I've adjusted mafcomp a bit, I'm hoping that helps. btw is is ok to get the higher Hz mafcomp data from 2nd gear pulls? will that still be valid? I'll be back with more logs. I'll probably try to make a video of my afr situation, but it's hard.
 

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now it sounfs the like your getting somewhere with the aem wb. plugs look nice at a glance on my phone.

tighten the plug gap if your braking-up up top

inspect that knock sensor
 
Ok, I put in another brand new set of bpr7es gapped to .24 instead of .28, gobbed the tops with dielectric. I adjusted the mafcomp based on the last pull and I took one degree of timing out of one cell. I'm running 10* up top again. Im gonna go make one more pull before I have to call it a night.
Pics are my latest plugs that were breaking up, and my knock sensor. There is no black goo, the sensor is a few years old I believe.
Will update again after another drive.
 

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I used BR7ES which is non projected and less likely to blow out (break-up up top)

Note the difference between BPR & BR

I now use BR8ES but am running higher boost. Id use the BR7ES @ .24 for what your doing.......and expect to be able to add more timing if you do.
 
My laptop died while I was logging. Didn't get squat. But it pulls hard af through 2nd and 3rd with no break up on 18 lbs, turned it up to 20 and a bit of knock came back in 3rd. I just need to log more and mafcomp the higher values. I'll probably follow up later. Neighbors be damned.
 
Well here are two pull, I made one, did some tweaks, did the next. A, then B. There is still knock, but I think I'm getting there. Any insights would be appreciated. Happy Easter!
 

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Here is my latest log. also attached is my attempt at correcting the mafcomp from that pull I'm wondering if I should dial in a tiny bit more fuel? 10.7 instead of 10.8, maybe? Does that seem like a good idea? What afr does rich knock happen? It seems like the knock happens when it leans out from the maf oscillations now. I'll be doing the seafoam suggestion friday, and then changing all the fluids. I'll probably grab some br7es non projected plugs too.
 

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There isn't a certain afr that causes knock. Check the video below. BR7ES and seafoam :thumb: . Follow the instructions for seafoam and be close to a highway so you can really get on it.

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WBfactor is 3% off at 2000hz where the knock starts. I'd increase 2000-3600hz by 2%
 
Will do. I understand detonation, what I meant was do you think it would be beneficial to set my target afr to 10.7 in the trouble cells, or if it would potentially make it worse. But for now I'll dial the maf in and make another couple pulls. I wasnt sure which way to go past 2200.
 
Will do. I understand detonation, what I meant was do you think it would be beneficial to set my target afr to 10.7 in the trouble cells, or if it would potentially make it worse. But for now I'll dial the maf in and make another couple pulls. I wasnt sure which way to go past 2200.

Leanest you want to run on pump is 11:1. 10.7 to 10.8 is only 1% difference so it won’t really make a difference imo. I think you needed to add 3% at 2000 and 2100hz. Your pull ended at 2100hz...I think. Just make 2000 and up all the same until you get to those HZs.
 
Well I finally found time to get it seafoamed, gotta change the oil and throw in my br7es and I'll get some logs up tomorrow. I'm gonna re verify the aem calibration too. My method is to lock in open loop and set my idle cells to the desired afr (10.8 min 14.7 max) I just wanted to make sure that was a good way to capture it...? The video posted above is using SD so I wasnt sure. I ordered a mitsu style map SD bundle so I can log boost (budget dictated the 4 bar over the aem 3.5 unfortunately) so once that gets here I'll be able to provide better logs.
 
Well, anther tomorrow turned into next week but I think I have it pretty well figured out. This is the latest log after seafoam, some mafcomp tweaks, and fuel table adjustments. And I realized I need a PCV because mine leaks, so maybe that will help. I got rid of most of the knock but I have to tune richer (10.4) but at least my mafcomp seems right, up until the very top at least. I will hopefully be able to dedicate more time to the car again soon, gonna do the 2 catch can PCV reroute and stuff. I have my IAT plumbed, just not wired... when should I make the switch to SD?
 

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You can switch after you get the 4 bar map and IAT logging :)
 
Well, anther tomorrow turned into next week but I think I have it pretty well figured out. This is the latest log after seafoam, some mafcomp tweaks, and fuel table adjustments. And I realized I need a PCV because mine leaks, so maybe that will help. I got rid of most of the knock but I have to tune richer (10.4) but at least my mafcomp seems right, up until the very top at least. I will hopefully be able to dedicate more time to the car again soon, gonna do the 2 catch can PCV reroute and stuff. I have my IAT plumbed, just not wired... when should I make the switch to SD?


Go for it. At first you might be like- what have I done, but then youll figure it out and get it driving right. Then decide which one you like better to drive on and makes the most sense for what your trying to do.
 
I find it pretty easy (SD), plus you can get the same help right here when it is that time.
 
Getting this code with exactly 3.2 counts any one have a general idea on rewire for sensor straight to ecu? I’ve already replaced sensor might be bad right out of box and I will test Tom. I’ve heard with this code it’s either faulty sensor or wiring. Even when I rev the car it triggers 3.2 of knock at around 3k rpm
 
Re: above - Would a valid test for phantom knock resulting from the wiring or bad sensor be to just remove the sensor from the block and leave it plugged in while running? I know that wouldn't rule out other engine noises but as far as identifying signal contamination in the harness would that help? Is that even a cause for phantom knock? I never got knock except under load, I don't think mine is phantom...
 
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