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ECMlink First time tuning with link, need a little help.

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Well, I got a pull.... I kept getting the cel at like 3k but i figured one pull isn't gonna kill the motor. the kid i got it from was mean to it before me haha. I still chickened out before 5k, but the knock was decreasing with RPM now that I see the log, but the boost gauge set to knock is a bit hard to read. I can't watch link cuz I have to do pulls in a less than optimum place. Looking at it, I probably should've stayed in it for science. Should I go get one to redline? It feels totally fine while this happens, btw. I do have a stupid divorced wastegaqte dump tho so I can't hear any knock anyway :/
 

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  • log.04.13.2019-15.elg
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Ok, I sat down and messed with my timing and fuel tables. I did richen the fuel a bit because the evo map had me a bit lean in spots (13's) and I just added .1-.2 of fuel in a few cells where I got knock and the surrounding ones to blend a bit. I did a lot more to the timing, I backed out several degrees in a lot of places, and took some time to try to make the transitions logical. I can't go drive any more tonight, because my neighbors already hate my car. I'll post tomorrow with the results, but if anyone care to look at my tables, here they are.
 

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  • medium knock.eda
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If you track your timing table in DA, you're still 15* above 3k. So lower that a few degrees for now and smooth the timing table above that load & RPMs. Looks like the knock should go away for the most part after you fine tune AFR. Here's a quick adjustment I made to your MAF slider.
 

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  • settings.2019.04.14-01.ecm
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set knock sensor to activate @ 2200rpm and TPS greater than 60%

Never use the sliders for fuel or timing. Just do it in the table...and decrease the timing values in the trouble cells as you trace your log yes

I agree with the fuel slider. But when adjusting timing, once you have afrs dialed in, I find the timing slider useful because you don’t have to shut the car off every time you make adjustments. Keep in mind that when making adjustments in the timing slider, you’re adjusting the entire column and then go into DA and adjust accordingly.
 
pull over and review log with engine off, fans running, make your changes, do another pull.

thats how i do it. sliders are out. Im never really out there swingin my timing around TBH. once im done, thats it. no need to make constant changes on the fly.
 
Just my opinion, I'd go SD and never look back. Boost leak or blown coupler, still get ya home on SD. MAF, you will fight it just to get to a parking lot. To me SD tuning is MUCH easier but thats just me. My kids can even set up a SD car and get a good idle and cruise tune. It is all up to the OP. Just my experiences, I change all our cars to SD now. Notice most modern cars no longer have MAFs, they are already running SD. :)

I blew a coupler in half on the other side of the city a few years back when I was still on 2G MAF and she got me home pretty good. Stayed out of boost and closed loop ended crazy rich STFT and LTFT, sucked fuel like mad, but she got me home.
One of the reasons I still havent sold her.. she always got me home.

but, yes, SD. who doesnt love to fk with ve tables endlessly..
 
Thanks for all the help everybody, I copied those maf settings over and pulled time in the cells where I had knock, rinse, repeat, and now I can pull 21 psi through 3rd repeatedly with no knock, I get .04 degrees in 4th and about 1.2 in 5th. So I am pulling a bit more time out of the higher load cells where that occurred, smoothing out the values and putting a (hopefully) final tune in soon. I'll post my log after that. I can't thank you guys enough this community is one of the reasons I love these cars.
 
Just an opinion here. I have follow along and one think that I don't agree with is aem wideband does not suck all that bad. You need to set it up as liner wideband and plug in the numbers from the scale sheet that is attached to the wideband not all the voltage scales from aem are the same. As far as innovated goes, if you really look into the subject you will realize that they both use the same sensors. Old units used bosch 4.2 and new once are using Bosch 4.9. So when we compare the two together please compare the same sensors and not a wideband like mine which is like 10 years old to a new innovated once. Compare the same sensor and you will find that innovated once need to be calibrated and bla bla bla. Aem set it and forget it. Also new sensors are available dirt cheap from vw. Just my opinion. Ather then that great thread.
 
Here is a log i just took, the car pulls really hard now and no cel from knock. My only remaining question is what to do about my WBfactor, should I raise my thresholds and drive around to do mafcomp again? when you do that drive, do you stay in one gear? I feel like the garbled area between shifts must throw off that average calculation, right? Should I just adjust it manually based on MafRAW and WBFactor?
 

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  • log.04.14.2019-05.elg
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Brembo, I agree now that I figured it out. I think a lot of ppl just have a hard time getting the values right. Part of that is because the max volts the sensor sees in link is never 5v. I found mine by turning the key on to preheat it, and noting the voltage it reached there. The minimum voltage was as specified, and I ended up dead on. 2.53 v switch point for o2 sim. I'd rather do that once than the scheduled calibrations. Just my $.02.
 
nothing wrong with the old aems wb at all. i used one up untill recently setup as Linear and it was very close, and as I said in another thread like this, close enough for what most of us need it for

just needs 10 min of setup time
 
For mafcomp with raised thresholds you want a broad range of conditions through all gears with varying load factors. you want to try and put the car through as many conditions as you can and collect the data from this. Try manual adjustments if you think it may improve things, just dont do too much as once so you can quantify results. I dont really pay much attention to the data from between throttle inputs.

I also dont start a log if I intend on using any of its suggestions until after the car has reached operating temp
 
be sure to copy the max octane map and paste over the min octane map..........so both maps have the same values in every box. you dont need it switching back and forth while your trying to dial things in. this will simplify.
 
Evil - Should I copy My Timing and Open Loop Max Oct Tables Both, or just timing?
also, tk106 - that timing table puts a bit of timing in where I had to take some out, should I try to dial in mafcomp more first? I'm running ethanol free 91 octane, btw, because it's what's most commonly available here. I suspect that's part of the problem. I've always been leery of the 93 oct e10 in my area because I've read that "e10" varies a lot in ethanol content & octane... Should I go fill up with 93? Should I put in a gallon of 110 leaded? Xylene? Everclear? :) Obviously a water/meth setup is in my near future. But I'm not opposed to having to brew gas until then for the low mileage this thing sees.
 
Copy and paste both. As evl mentioned earlier, copy the timing table to both max and min in DA. Your afr were still off a bit and that’s prob why you’re still getting knock. I can’t see your Wb since I’m running innovate so I was going by wbfactor. Timing is only 10* advanced so you’ll be fine.
 
Ok I'm gonna pop it in and copy the tables, then im gonna go fill up with 93 at the busy, brand new conoco. Some alcohol is better than none right? I'll post logs soon.
 
Well, the 3 stations that I checked just have 91 octane e10, not 93. I'll have to adventure tomorrow and see if there are any places that do have 93. In other news, knock is back, pretty bad. One hit pulled enough time it felt like fuel cut. I'm babying it and it's fine. I'll post the log when I'm home.
 
Here's Logs. I labeled them and clipped them, didn't realize I could clip the selections.
 

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