Jagster
Probationary Member
- 12
- 0
- Apr 28, 2005
-
Jacksonville,
Florida
Hi folks, I have a '93 Eclipse that I'm working on bringing back to life after siting for 10 years due to a collision that damaged the front end and then later (the car was being periodically started to keep the engine in shape) the car just stopped starting and sat outdoors for a couple years before being towed and stored in my garage. I never thought it would take this long to pick this project back up but sometimes adulting just gets in the way.
Anyhow, I'm now trying to get this car back in running order, the inside is pretty mint, the outside could use a fresh coat of paint and a new left fender. The car was hit right at the drivers side wheel - the fender was damaged a bit and the wheel was pushed way in a the top like it had extreme camber. The car was on loan to my parents when this happened (I lived a couple hundred miles away at the time) and I was not able to address the damage a the time, that is why it sat for so long and eventually towed to me later once I bought a house and could store it with me. The car was "totaled" and the damage seemed like it could require a fair amount of work to the front suspension/steering components (at least to my eye at the time). Since then I've of course gained more knowledge and experience and am now kicking myself for not diving into this sooner because once I got in there to look I couldn't find anything the looked mangled and concluded that possibly it was just the shock absorber that somehow go bent from the impact and after putting in a new shock the wheel is almost back to normal position - it seems it might have just the slightest amount of negative camber now but I'll dig into that if I can get the car running again first. I took the fender off and manually reshaped it back to as close to normal as I could get it, and pulled some of the metal under the fender area to straighten things up there too. Now the body damage looks almost gone but if I get this car running good I'll put a new fender on it.
After fixing the body and suspension issue I went about dealing with the fluids. I drained the oil and gas (this gas tank has a drain plug! ), then put fresh full synthetic in there to help clean stuff out. I know the motor has to be pretty dry after sitting so lone so I'm a little worried about that but I pumped oil through using the oil pressure sending unit trick (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/priming-oil-pump.286235/#post-151432942) until I saw oil coming out around the rocker arm. I'm not 100% sure this is the best way but that's what I've done so far. If anyone has suggestions on this aspect to prime the motor any better I'm all ears.
So that's the backstory on the car, now to the ECU issue. I decided to check for spark while I had the plugs out (to make turning the engine over easier and let oil distribute a bit on the rings - I placed a little oil in each cylinder) and found I had no spark. I tested resistance on the coils and that seemed pretty normal. I was about to order a new power transistor when I noticed that the CEL was not coming on when cranking the car. Thankfully I came across info on this site on how to diagnose before I just went and bought another ECU (I'm trying to no spend any real money on this until I am comfortable that the car will run an not have any terrible damage to the steering/suspension). Following the instructions, I've found that I don't have any power to pin 110 when the ignition is in the ON or START position. I do have constant power at pin 103 [connector C-59] and MPI relay pin 10, and also get power at fuses 11, 12, & 18 when the IGN is ON or START. After looking at wiring diagrams, it seems that the wire from pin 110 goes up to connector C-54 pin 5. The wire in the electrical schematics is labeled 1.25-BW but I'm not sure what that means really. Upstream it then turns into 2-BW and then 3-BW.
If I have power at fuse 11, 12, & 18 but not at C-59 pin 110 then I would think there is something amiss between C-59 and the ignition connector (C-04 pin 4). And since power is getting to the fuses (11, 12, 18) then it's not at the ignition switch connector itself. Does this all seem reasonable and accurate so far?
I'm having trouble tracking down connector C-54 though. According to this diagram (attached) it's somewhere under the passenger dash but I haven't been able to spot it. Can anyone help point out where exactly I should be looking or if I'm chasing the wrong thing here? Is it behind some HVAC ducting?
Also, any other tips worth sharing for my endeavor in resurrecting this baby?
Many thanks.
Anyhow, I'm now trying to get this car back in running order, the inside is pretty mint, the outside could use a fresh coat of paint and a new left fender. The car was hit right at the drivers side wheel - the fender was damaged a bit and the wheel was pushed way in a the top like it had extreme camber. The car was on loan to my parents when this happened (I lived a couple hundred miles away at the time) and I was not able to address the damage a the time, that is why it sat for so long and eventually towed to me later once I bought a house and could store it with me. The car was "totaled" and the damage seemed like it could require a fair amount of work to the front suspension/steering components (at least to my eye at the time). Since then I've of course gained more knowledge and experience and am now kicking myself for not diving into this sooner because once I got in there to look I couldn't find anything the looked mangled and concluded that possibly it was just the shock absorber that somehow go bent from the impact and after putting in a new shock the wheel is almost back to normal position - it seems it might have just the slightest amount of negative camber now but I'll dig into that if I can get the car running again first. I took the fender off and manually reshaped it back to as close to normal as I could get it, and pulled some of the metal under the fender area to straighten things up there too. Now the body damage looks almost gone but if I get this car running good I'll put a new fender on it.
After fixing the body and suspension issue I went about dealing with the fluids. I drained the oil and gas (this gas tank has a drain plug! ), then put fresh full synthetic in there to help clean stuff out. I know the motor has to be pretty dry after sitting so lone so I'm a little worried about that but I pumped oil through using the oil pressure sending unit trick (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/priming-oil-pump.286235/#post-151432942) until I saw oil coming out around the rocker arm. I'm not 100% sure this is the best way but that's what I've done so far. If anyone has suggestions on this aspect to prime the motor any better I'm all ears.
So that's the backstory on the car, now to the ECU issue. I decided to check for spark while I had the plugs out (to make turning the engine over easier and let oil distribute a bit on the rings - I placed a little oil in each cylinder) and found I had no spark. I tested resistance on the coils and that seemed pretty normal. I was about to order a new power transistor when I noticed that the CEL was not coming on when cranking the car. Thankfully I came across info on this site on how to diagnose before I just went and bought another ECU (I'm trying to no spend any real money on this until I am comfortable that the car will run an not have any terrible damage to the steering/suspension). Following the instructions, I've found that I don't have any power to pin 110 when the ignition is in the ON or START position. I do have constant power at pin 103 [connector C-59] and MPI relay pin 10, and also get power at fuses 11, 12, & 18 when the IGN is ON or START. After looking at wiring diagrams, it seems that the wire from pin 110 goes up to connector C-54 pin 5. The wire in the electrical schematics is labeled 1.25-BW but I'm not sure what that means really. Upstream it then turns into 2-BW and then 3-BW.
If I have power at fuse 11, 12, & 18 but not at C-59 pin 110 then I would think there is something amiss between C-59 and the ignition connector (C-04 pin 4). And since power is getting to the fuses (11, 12, 18) then it's not at the ignition switch connector itself. Does this all seem reasonable and accurate so far?
I'm having trouble tracking down connector C-54 though. According to this diagram (attached) it's somewhere under the passenger dash but I haven't been able to spot it. Can anyone help point out where exactly I should be looking or if I'm chasing the wrong thing here? Is it behind some HVAC ducting?
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Also, any other tips worth sharing for my endeavor in resurrecting this baby?
Many thanks.
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