Pull the ecu and have a look

No visual signs of the ecu being bad.

Lets get a compression check.

Check
Inj pulse
Spark
Compresion

And also check if there isnt an air obstruccion

How is timing? Have you checked to make sure it hasn't jumped any teeth?

Mechanical timing is good and the oem kit was put on 1 month ago.

i would check compression and if it's off then your timing jumped .

Firstdsmhlpme said:

Mechanical timing is good and the oem kit was put on 1 month ago.

Click to expand...

Did you actually look or are you saying this because it was put on one month ago?

Compression average was 158 psi
Car has 60k miles

Your at a point where you need to find someone that can take a datalog of your car, we need to see what the maf is outputting and what numbers the coolant temp sensor is showing. Have you taken a fuel sample from the fuel rail (return line) to inspect it for water?, have you checked fuel pressure and not just flow? you can have one without the other.

in your first post you said that it try's to start but dies . to me it sounds like your timing jumped . all you need is one tooth to cause a problem . i did my timing belt one time and when i went to start it the engine would run and die . checked the timing and it was off by one tooth .

Lets see, stock 1990 that wont start and has wet plugs, the CEL on, and no activity from the boost gauge.

If the ECU is original it's bad, even if it's working, because they all go bad with the capacitors leaking, drying out, and shorting. The question is how bad. I've described the functional ECU behavour many times and yours isn't behaving the way it should.

You replaced the CTS (why) but have you checked the Coolant Temp Sensor output? If it's wiring goes bad ECU sees the coolant temp as -74F or something ridiculous like that and floods the engine with fuel hoping some will vaporize and ignite but since it's really not that cold it just washes the plugs with fuel.

From your comments, you have spark, too much fuel, compression, correct timing. A log would be really helpful but figuring out why your plugs are fuel fouling is one place to look.

The boost gauge needle not going to zero when you turn the ignition on is a sure sign that your ECU is defective.

Crank and cam sensors are definately a place to look