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1G Extremely High Oil Pressure (Fresh Build)

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Ryan1gGst

Probationary Member
19
1
May 1, 2016
Kalamazoo, Michigan
As the title states. I know this topic has been beaten to death but I can not find any other fixes. I'm tired of my oil pan leaking. Motor built by a reputable shop here. Wiseco pistons (stock bore), Manley Hbeam rods, acl rod and main bearings, kiggly beehive valve springs and retainers, crane 264 cams. New acl oil pump. I have had my ffofh ported and it didnt help. Cold start seeing 130psi. Warm idle around 30-35. Giving any gas it shoots up to 100. At 55mph, full operating temp, around 90psi. Under any boost it will peg my gauge at 150 psi. Sensor is on the ofh. Tuned at 21lbs on a small 16g. Running a catch can with -10 fittings on the side of the cover. New oem pcv in working order. After the first two times the pan was leaking I bought a new oil pan. Cleaned all the surfaces and reinstalled with permatex (the right stuff). Failed, took it all apart, re did the gasket. 1/4 bead and going around the outside of bolt holes. Torqued to spec. Let it cure over night. Started up, idled for 20min, no leaks, drove it without building boost for 5min, parked it, and leaking from under timing side again. Took the cover off, pulleys back on a confirmed its seeping out of the pan and no where else.

Any other suggestions would be much appreciated. Tired of having a broken project.
Thanks
 
My car also has high oil pressure readings and I had the same problem were I had a leak but I couldn't figure out were it was coming from. The only time it would happen was when I went under boost. It turned out to be I had a bad crankshaft seal and the oil pump seal was bad too.
 
High oil pressure is always caused on relief valve part of the assembly.
Sometimes a shorter spring should do the job...but after oil is released from valve it drains to oil pan..a clogged pass after the relief valve would keep oil press still high after installing shorter spring...make sure the drain passage is.clear before doing spring replacement......and about oil leaking .i can say after permatex and proper torque never seen leak happens...all i do is remove all plastic timing cover and water pump /steering pulley.. clean the oil ....reinstall crank pulley make sure nothing get catch ....start engine and note the place leaking...
 
High oil pressure is always caused on relief valve part of the assembly.
Sometimes a shorter spring should do the job...but after oil is released from valve it drains to oil pan..a clogged pass after the relief valve would keep oil press still high after installing shorter spring...make sure the drain passage is.clear before doing spring replacement......and about oil leaking .i can say after permatex and proper torque never seen leak happens...all i do is remove all plastic timing cover and water pump /steering pulley.. clean the oil ....reinstall crank pulley make sure nothing get catch ....start engine and note the place leaking...

I finally have a day off work tomorrow. I will be taking the pan and ofh back off. Porting the filter housing more and also had my new spring (smaller) arrive today. Will definitely check the passage. Pan is always put on, hand tight, torque from in to out.
 
I'm surprised no one mentioned this yet but with high oil pressure, make sure you're not running the pan low until you figure out what's going on. These engines notoriously hold a lot of oil high up in the head and don't drain properly. I've done the Kiggly HLA on the head as well as the oil pickup mod. Helped with my oil issues. Good luck with all this!
 
I'm surprised no one mentioned this yet but with high oil pressure, make sure you're not running the pan low until you figure out what's going on. These engines notoriously hold a lot of oil high up in the head and don't drain properly. I've done the Kiggly HLA on the head as well as the oil pickup mod. Helped with my oil issues. Good luck with all this!

I have been looking into the hla. Just couldn't determine if it is worth it. I may just pick one up. Won't hurt to try. Thanks!
 
Try the rear balance shaft plug or castle nut deal above the oil pump. It's been a while but I remember going through something like you have. For me it wouldn't leak at idle. I finally found it only after thoroughly cleaning the area, putting dye in oil, remove timing cover and ran it at over 2k-3k rpms it also helped to have it on a lift.
 
Early on you mentioned permatex on the oil pan. I believe the permatex should go on the INSIDE of the bolt holes not the outside. If you put it on the outside, oil could be seeping past the oil pan bolts/holes.
 
Sorry it's been a while. I got a new sending unit and switched ports on my ofh. I had it where stock would be, but the ffofh has a 90° fitting I had tapped into, pressure is half of what it was before, on mechanical and aem gauge. Still not perfect numbers so I'm doing more porting this weekend.

As for my oil leak, after removing ofh, i can see part of the front case gasket which isnt in good shape. Looks like I'll be having to do a new front case gasket. Fml.
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