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ECMlink lean and stumped, wideband logs

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Street Faze

10+ Year Contributor
118
1
Feb 10, 2010
canton, Ohio
Link V3
450cc
Stock unhacked 1g MAF
.026-.028 Gap NGK 7s
Base timing set
No boost leaks
LC1 Wideband logged, Narrowband simulated
Stock Fpr
Vrsf FMIC
16g

Runs great until in boost then breaks up..Timing at idle is 15 degrees, unsure if that is normal..timing light was used to set 5 degrees..A/F reading in closed loop doesn't flow up and down, it spikes and sometimes flat lines.....The ecu was purchased from someone running sd and e85...I set global to stock 450cc @ 37psi...Everything mechanical is functional and theres is no dtcs….Possible bad wideband sensor? ive gone threw a lot before posting to the forums but im lost.
 

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Im revisiting this to try to correct what I did wrong in order to receive a reply

1). No boost, vac, or exhaust leaks. No
2). Verify mechanical timing. Yes
3). Verify base timing. Yes
4). Ignition system. 028, NGk 7s
5). Motor health. Fresh Build
6). Basic throttle body adjustments. Yes
7). Compression ratio. Stock
8). Wiring and sensors. All good if not new
9). No DTC/CEL codes. No
10). Electrical system. New Battery and Alt.and new wires to alt. fuse(possible voltage issue still)
11). Base fuel pressure and injector values. Stock
12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor. Calibrated and logged
13). Type of fuel. 93 octane
14). ECMlink how-to videos. Yes, at least 4x

Im stuck in between a high rpm voltage drop or possibly my 450s are failing at some point. Im out of money at the moment, as ive thrown plenty of money at this build already. End of the week ill have money but I am desperate for some help to possibly save money...... I did a hard reset on ecu and I even swapped to a stock o2 and stock ecu and still ran into the same problem... Ease into throttle and roughly 6-8 psi is when issue occurs.

Ive created a build profile for this as well. https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/stock.14097/ .....Please and Thank you.

Was trying to make it to my first IFO event here in ohio this weekend
 

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We're you still doing narrowband sim with the stick O2 installed? We're the injectors serviced before using or from a well running car? Filter should have flow from left to right in your pic. Might want to pull the Injectors and check the filter baskets in them, maybe backflow them with some carb cleaner, or swap them for a known good set of you can source some.

How about fuel pressure regulator, hooked up correctly to intake manifold source?
 
What's your O2 sensor reading at idle?

I'm having some what the same issue, runs lean at idle, boost cut/ sputter while under boost.
I've recently replaced my O2 sensor with a oe denso and replaced my maf. Fixed my sputter problem under boost but I'm still running lean at idle and a bit rough idle

Short fuel trim 12.5% - 17.2%
Long fuel trim 12.5%
while it's warming up

At WOT short fuel trim -4.3% +10.2%
Long term stays at 12.5%
 
We're you still doing narrowband sim with the stick O2 installed? We're the injectors serviced before using or from a well running car? Filter should have flow from left to right in your pic. Might want to pull the Injectors and check the filter baskets in them, maybe backflow them with some carb cleaner, or swap them for a known good set of you can source some.

How about fuel pressure regulator, hooked up correctly to intake manifold source?
When I swapped to stock o2, I also put in a known good stock ecu. So no its wasn't being simulated
Ill pull the injectors and check them, they were being stored
FPR is hooked to intake yes(stock location)

What's your O2 sensor reading at idle?
O2 is cycling properly from what I understand after seeing a log with wideband being simulated.
My idle tune I can make spot on.
A/F 14.7ish
AirFlowPerRev 0.25
Combined FT around 0

Im not able to go WOT yet because of current issue
 
Boost leak tested?
 
Sounds like the injectors might need serviced or replaced. I'd also take a look at the fuel tank to see if it's got some rust in it, though I'd expect to see some in the filter if that was the case
 
Wouldn't hurt to see if cleaning them at home or throwing a different set of 450s in. I'd have to find mine but I have some somewhere.
I've always been on my phone so I have to say I didn't scrutinize your log yet so sorry 'bout that.
 
Sounds like the injectors might need serviced or replaced. I'd also take a look at the fuel tank to see if it's got some rust in it, though I'd expect to see some in the filter if that was the case
I installed a different set of stock injectors and I also pulled the sending unit. Fuel is clean, fuel sock is clean. The problem persist... Here is the most recent logs, driving and idle....Wasn't warmed up all the way while driving but at this point I don't see it making a difference
 

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I've seen something similar happen to a friend and we had to watch his fuel pressure closely to figure out the issue. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the rail? Make sure your base fuel pressure is correct when idling. If you have an adjustable fpr, while idlng, turn the screw in to increase pressure and see if you can get it higher and note what that max is. It should at least be able to reach 60psi. It that is ok, then check the hose connecting your manifold to the fpr. Make sure there are no leaks there.
 
I've seen something similar happen to a friend and we had to watch his fuel pressure closely to figure out the issue. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the rail? Make sure your base fuel pressure is correct when idling. If you have an adjustable fpr, while idlng, turn the screw in to increase pressure and see if you can get it higher and note what that max is. It should at least be able to reach 60psi. It that is ok, then check the hose connecting your manifold to the fpr. Make sure there are no leaks there.
I'm running a stock FPR until I can get some more money gathered up...


I still notice low voltage while the lean mixture occurs. At the same time the injector duty jumps around as well as the maf hz when going lean
 
You definitely need to check that the vacuum line is holding pressure. I don't think your MAF or the injectors are the issue. Your car is running so lean it's not making any power and your running into a kind of fuel cut. And when this happens the rpms drop, so the airflow drops and those are the two things you see in the logs. Another thing to try to swap to another fpr and see if you still get the same issue.
 
You said 16g on stock unhacked maf? What hz are you maxing at?

I don't have the ability to see the log right now.
 
His logs show only about 60% throttle and 700Hz. He's nowhere near overrunning the MAF. And with DSMlink the factory fuel cut is disabled.
 
You definitely need to check that the vacuum line is holding pressure. I don't think your MAF or the injectors are the issue. Your car is running so lean it's not making any power and your running into a kind of fuel cut. And when this happens the rpms drop, so the airflow drops and those are the two things you see in the logs. Another thing to try to swap to another fpr and see if you still get the same issue.
I will triple check vac line and see about loaning a fpr tomorrow. I understand what you mean about why im seeing the drops. I will update asap
Thanks to all
 
So if this thing was set up for E85 and speed density, what are you running for fuel? did you set it up to run a maf sensor? I feel like your speed density settings are somehow to blame unless you are positive that they are right, what spark plug wires are you using? what spark plugs?
 
I didn't think it mattered but looking closely at your speed sensor the reading is very choppy. And every time the speed drops, the injector duty cycle drops. Then when the speed jumps back up the injector duty cycle goes back up. So you might have a loose wire or connector somewhere. Make sure the ecu connectors are in tight. Are you driving on very bumpy roads?

Can you get any logs driving steady on the highway at 50-60mph?
 
I didn't think it mattered but looking closely at your speed sensor the reading is very choppy. And every time the speed drops, the injector duty cycle drops. Then when the speed jumps back up the injector duty cycle goes back up. So you might have a loose wire or connector somewhere. Make sure the ecu connectors are in tight. Are you driving on very bumpy roads?

Can you get any logs driving steady on the highway at 50-60mph?
the choppy readings is what I was referring to along with the voltage being around 13.0v at times. road is smooth that im testing on. Theres only 12 miles on the build so It has never seen a speed above 49.3mph I believe.ecu connectors seemed fine during the ecu swaps. I am also leaning towards a wiring problem somewhere but not sure what would cause a voltage draw while rpms are climbing....I will be going threw wiring as well
but im not positive about driving her on the highway at this time, theres only 12ish miles on this build and would hate to pull a small hill and need a few psi
 
So if this thing was set up for E85 and speed density, what are you running for fuel? did you set it up to run a maf sensor? I feel like your speed density settings are somehow to blame unless you are positive that they are right, what spark plug wires are you using? what spark plugs?
ecu was swapped to verify settings were not a problem. wires are aftermarket low resistance wires connected to NGK 7s...transistor is newer legit oem mitsu, coil packs test good
 
Have you had the alternator tested? How about the power and ground connections for the battery, battery itself, and engine/chassis ground points?
Alternator was replaced yesterday 75amp. Battery is maybe 2 years old. Hold charge for at least 2 weeks. Car always fires up first turn. I went threw chassis grounds today front to back....

Maybe the twin walbros are demanding to much voltage? Pump is rewired properly. One pump is inline so I'm not able to unhook one with out putting extra pressure on the other.
 
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