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420A Sometimes there's power, sometimes there's not

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Cmeacham

Probationary Member
11
0
Mar 31, 2019
Lubbock, Texas
Hey guys,

I just bought a 97 GS. It doesn't stat, and I'm trying to diagnose the problem. The first time I tried to start it, it blew the 30A fuse for the IGN.

When I try and start it, sometimes the gauge cluster will light up and everything receives power, then when I turn the key to start it, it dies, and no more power. Sometimes, the gauge cluster won't even light up. It has a good battery. I checked the engine bay fuses, everything looks good.

Any suggestions?
 
You need to pull up a schematic to see what runs off of the Ign fuse and then disconnect things one at a time until the fuse wont blow, not many things will blow a 30 amp fuse, fuel pump, cooling fans, heater fan, those are the biggest suspects unless you have a wire thats rubbing the body somewhere.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have a picture of the wiring diagram for the "IGN SW" fuse?
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I agree with MotoMattx.......start disconnecting things or disconnect everything and then start reconnects. Crappy part is your going to burn through a bunch of fuses before you find thing issue. Older cars like ours are susceptible to wire insulation rubbing through and shorting to metal. Does it blow the fuse immediately or after cranking for a minute or two?
 
I agree with MotoMattx.......start disconnecting things or disconnect everything and then start reconnects. Crappy part is your going to burn through a bunch of fuses before you find thing issue. Older cars like ours are susceptible to wire insulation rubbing through and shorting to metal. Does it blow the fuse immediately or after cranking for a minute or two?

immediate, instantly when I replace the fuse and turn the key to the run position.
 
Ok well good thing is that means you probably have a dead short somewhere. If you have a multimeter you can ohm it out compared to a chassis ground and see if you can see a short. If so I'd suggest removing all the wires that connect to the fuse until the short disappears and then that should help you find where the short is...at least circuit wise. Now whether that means you have a shorted device...aka....starter solenoid or maybe you have a bare wire touching metal you'll have to track it down from there. I would try that first. If you're unable to see a short using the multimeter that makes things more difficult because you'll probably have to burn through fuses while removingadding wires 1 at a time until you find it that way.
 
going to just look over the wiring when I pull the engine out. I have to redo some of the loom also.

Any suggestions on what to replace while the engine is out?
 
Depending on what shape your timing belt and water pump are in....if you've got the motor out that's a great time to replace timing belt, water pump, timing tensioner, cam shaft seals, crank shaft seal. If you're running AC and your compressor is bad......good time for that replacement. Check motor mounts...clutch check, throw out bearing, grease pivot ball, oil pan gasket replacement. And of course a great time for cleaning the engine bay, motor and transmission. Maybe consider engine bay painting. Definitely check all your wiring and connectors to spot potential issues or maybe even find your short!! Just think about anything that you would struggle to get to with the engine in that you could take advantage of while it's out. Definitely a great time to fix any exhaust manifold bolts that are stripped or broken off.
 
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