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2G Need welding help ASAP..

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dalesmitsu

15+ Year Contributor
761
3
Jul 23, 2006
North Canton, Ohio
Need some help...
Is anyone in my area Akron/Canton, alliance, good with a tig welder familiar with reinforcing the jack point pinch weld that runs along driverside and passenger side an old Dsm'r named AZDAVE has done a how-to of Reinforcing the jack points he posted on his webpage (Not sure if anybody here know of him, I do people on 2gnt.com does) and also welding the frame rails?

I have to put replacing my drivers front suspension and front-rear brakes replacement on hold until I have these four areas fixed. My car is worth fixing, hate to just scrape it with knowing it can be saved kept on the road.

I'm getting my car back on the road after a ball joint failure when my driver's tire fell off it somehow broke the frame rail on the driver side.

The floor of my car is still solid my strut towers are also good.

I messaged Steve from Miller Imports on the pricing of the frame rails which are $125 each. Steve was my first choice instead of a dealer. I believe the sheet metal is 3/16 steel going by azdave's write up how to from his webpage.

I can get the sheet metal from Lowes and rails from Miller Imports (waiting on Steve pm on pricing) his delivery is fast.

I do have some air tools grinder/ratchet just need to replace the hose on my old Sears compressor pretty old but still works, off switch don't work it's always kept On, I would have to unplug it like after each use.

What would you charge for the welding, I don't think it won't take that long do. The car I'm getting back on the road is the 1995 eclipse in my avatar picture.

By the way, the wheels on it in the picture are for sale tires are bad wheels need some Tlc comes with set locking lugz with key their from autozone.

If nobody can't come in person can you guys guide me along the way. Thank you
 
My car is too low to jack on the frame rails. so I jack under the cross bar that bolts underneath the radiator and place my jackstands underneath the front subframe. On the rear I jack up on the middle of the rear subframe and place my stands on either side. I never use the side jack points because they are so wimpy on these cars unless you are using a regular 2 post style car lift.
 
A mig cool I do have one a century one haven't used it bought from an old boss of mine.

The reason I used jack point with basic 1.5 ton jack is that I have to change my ball joints, tie rods on the driver side.
I do have a jack under the passenger side far back on arm, for support while I change the rotors/pads
I do have a 3-ton jack under the center cross member
I'm changing front brakes left and right, tie-rods/ball joints on the left. and rear brakes only.

I did that too my car low when I bought it. If you lifting car on grass use your floor mats so jacks/stands dont sink ink ground.
I had to use two jacks raise the front first I lift bumper up slid my 1.5 jack raised up and put 3 tom jack behind jack car up rest of the way.

My car is on grass kinda on an incline my avatar photo is how my sits now it's on two stands in the front.

I'm not gonna be a wus, this is gonna be my first actual welding job.
I read up on others giving advice on welding what decent ones to buy, what to do and not do.

If you don't see me on the news person caught himself on fire or blow himself up in Alliance while working his you know I'm okay. LOL
 
I believe the sheet metal is 3/16 steel going by azdave's write up how to from his webpage.
There's nothing that thick on these cars. I don't have an exact thickness, but it's more like .040" thick. And in some places, several layers of that pinch welded together for strength.
 
There's nothing that thick on these cars. I don't have an exact thickness, but it's more like .040" thick. And in some places, several layers of that pinch welded together for strength.
Miss read/heard thickness was watching welding video shows on gearz.
 
It's listed in the manual and service manual from chiltons-dealer. It's lower corner spots on the front and the rear. Old thread
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/jacking-points.428308/
I got the idea from Azdave he's a member check out his write up.
http://www.rcaz.com/rcaz/sub indexes/jackpoint/index.htm
But I'm doing the whole strip connect one point front to rear.
That might be because the oem jack may have a slit to fit the pinch into it but it doesnt crush it. A standard floor jack will crush it, and thats a no no.

That thread no one said to jack it up at the pinch
 
That might be because the oem jack may have a slit to fit the pinch into it but it doesnt crush it. A standard floor jack will crush it, and thats a no no.

That thread no one said to jack it up at the pinch
Basically in our 2g service manual from Mitsubishi other brand/models all came with the factory cheap wind up jack and use it at these corner points for raising the car to change a tire etc.

See attach picture. I've used a small 1 ton jack at these points they didn't crush. Until recently, this is why I'm doing this write up which Dave mentioned in his link. Dave stated on his link this will strength these areas.

I know it's a no no but I need to jack the sides of my car my 3 ton jack only raises the front rear so high because my 3 ton jack is kinda broke. Plus my car sits on a small incline too.
 
Theres some local places that would weld that for a decent price if you can trailer the car to them.
 
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