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2G white smoke from tailpipe

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Allen2g

Proven Member
91
3
Jan 9, 2019
Winnipeg, MB_Canada
im gonna go nuts!! so white smokes been coming out of my tailpipe, compression test was good so i dont think its the HG, i have no cooling issues as well. I went and checked the stock t25 & there was in and out play(LOTS) so i suspected it being the problem. Went ahead and replaced it with a small 16g(0 shaftplay), replaced my waterpump/belt as well and theres still smoke even after all that. :(
could it be exhaust leak? boost leaks, pcv? ahh
 
Also i wanted to ask your guys opinion on my catch can setup. Ive done some research but all the answers are 50/50 which really confuses me.
Im wanting to replace the pcv valve with a free flowing barb fitting and run that to the catch can. the other vent/fitting to the catch can as well then the other fitting on the catch can to the turbo intake pipe
 
So back to page 1

Vakve stem seals will cause a higher compression reading because they cover the piston and rings in oil and cause your dry compression test to be a wet compression test.

If you were to perform a wet compression test on your car it would be the same results, so your compression psi should actually be around 150ish dry which is normal for a 2g.
 
how much oil would realistically have to be deposited on the piston crown after sitting for it to change compression and by how many points are we talking about? when the engine is off the valve seats should stop oil from depositing (not a perfect seal on a worn engine i know) but most if not all oil should drip down the cylinder wall to the rings, basically a wet test, but eventually drop into the crankcase. but if there is enough, probably a lot, then the flow to the crown could exceed the flow past the crown and thus deposit on the crown.

now if you had an open valve, that oil would still mostly follow the wall with a few drips from a valve face directly down onto the crown.

just trying to follow the flow of oil and i am genuinely really curious how bad a seal has to be to deposit fluidic oil in an amount that changes static compression OMG

moral of the story is potentially, at the least, I and E manifolds could come off so you can see the valve stems
 
Honestly dont think its Valve stem seals tbh. People say a bad valve stem seal would smoke as soon as you start it after sitting a night since the oil drips into the combustion chamber, in my case it doesnt smoke until 2-5 minutes of idle which really leads me to the turbo. The smoke is white which most people will think its coolant but it does not smell sweet at all. Ive read somewhere oil will burn white if it burns through the exhaust and not the combustion chamber.

But nonetheless im going to still be pulling my head off to do my HG, will be doing valve stems as well and a new turbo just to make that car more reliable LOL.
 
how much oil would realistically have to be deposited on the piston crown after sitting for it to change compression and by how many points are we talking about? when the engine is off the valve seats should stop oil from depositing (not a perfect seal on a worn engine i know) but most if not all oil should drip down the cylinder wall to the rings, basically a wet test, but eventually drop into the crankcase. but if there is enough, probably a lot, then the flow to the crown could exceed the flow past the crown and thus deposit on the crown.

now if you had an open valve, that oil would still mostly follow the wall with a few drips from a valve face directly down onto the crown.

just trying to follow the flow of oil and i am genuinely really curious how bad a seal has to be to deposit fluidic oil in an amount that changes static compression OMG

moral of the story is potentially, at the least, I and E manifolds could come off so you can see the valve stems


The car would leak oil from the valve stem seals during the test. The oil pump runs when the timing belt moves. the lifters run a shit ton of oil pressure into the head, thats why people upgrade to a kiggly hla when they do the balance shaft delete

I cant help you if you don't understand what a wet compression test is, and how it is different from a dry test.

Take out the spark plugs and use a tiny camera to look into the combustion chamber


Remove the exhaust manifold and look for wet exhaust chambers. If your head and exhaust manifold is dry inside then its a bad turbo.

Its bad valve stem seals like I said on page 1. Your compression numbers are too high

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Again perfect compression because of oil leaking from all valves


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The oil pump runs when the timing belt moves?

Ya we have basically reinforced that if he is seeing abnormal smoke (hard to gauge in -25C and below) then the ports and possibly hotside need to be looked at. When it warmed up, less visible smoking but that can be a subjective assessment.

No idea if he is aware of differences between dry and wet tests. I myself wondered how much oil could realistically pass by the stem seals and closed valves to affect compression so similarly across all cylinders. I would have expected more variance. The difference in test numbers, if the result of the first test being dry and the second essentially being wet, point to issues much larger tham stem seals. Ignoring any connection between the two tests, what numbers do you think he should be getting?

The exhaust manifold definitely needs to be removed and ports inspected, that is for sure.
 
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Remove the exhaust manifold and look for wet exhaust chambers. If your head and exhaust manifold is dry inside then its a bad turbo.
The exhaust manifold definitely needs to be removed and ports inspected, that is for sure.
I have already told him to remove the exhaust manifold and the turbo, O2 housing to inspect visually. I am not sure why but it seems he doesn't want to do that.
 
Im aware what a wet and dry test is. Ive pulled my spark plugs and each piston looks dry.

I have not pulled my exhaust manifold yet as im swapping turbos and have also decided to get my head machined and valve stem seals done as well as a head gasket.
Might as well do everything itll eliminate all my problems, hopefully LOL
 
Hope you have a second car for those oh sh*t runs to napa or piston ring at 5 mins before close.
been there during each build haha
i can relate. Worse feeling ever and then you end up not making it and having to wait another day LOL LOL
 
Im aware what a wet and dry test is. Ive pulled my spark plugs and each piston looks dry.

I have not pulled my exhaust manifold yet as im swapping turbos and have also decided to get my head machined and valve stem seals done as well as a head gasket.
Might as well do everything itll eliminate all my problems, hopefully LOL

Probably the best course of action LOL Everyone on here has told you like 2-3 different possibilities, might as well count them all out.

I will say, I had the same symptoms that you did, and just ended up being bad turbo seals.
 
Probably the best course of action LOL Everyone on here has told you like 2-3 different possibilities, might as well count them all out.

I will say, I had the same symptoms that you did, and just ended up being bad turbo seals.
LOL yeah, but i honestly ended up just doing my turbo. Ive ruled out my HG I highly doubt that is a problem.
Gonna do a head refresh this upcoming winter, want as much driving time as possible. Summers short aha
 
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