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2G Car died/No start w/ code P0335

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sinned4g63

Proven Member
320
86
May 1, 2017
Pasadena, Maryland
Was on my way to work trying to catch a green light pulling out of a parking lot, got up to around 6k in 1st gear and right as I grabbed the shifter and went to hit second the car died with an odd noise of something spinning. Car would not start and I pulled code P0335 for Crank Position Sensor. Luckily my car died at the top of the street I work on so I rolled down the hill and pulled into work. I have my timing belt cover off because of my FPR and the steel braided line won't allow it to fit, anyways I noticed some marks on it as if something maybe hit it, Someone else I spoke to suggested the balance shaft belt broke and may have struck that sensor or the wiring.

I've taken everything off the inside of the wheel well to look at the lower timing belt cover and it looks like a task to get off knowing all of the belts outside of it must come off and a few pulleys. I confirmed with the service manual and an awesome video on YouTube but is there a possibility of getting this done without removing the motor mount? The parking lot isn't %100 level and I wouldn't trust it for that. Fuel pressure via FPR is good, we were getting ready to test spark and compression when I pulled the code. I would appreciate any other insight or confirmation to this.

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If you're throwing a code for the crank sensor, I don't think you're going to have much of a choice than to pull the timing cover and inspect the sensor.

Is it possible the balance shaft belt snapped and took out the sensor? Sure. It's also possible something kicked up and got into the cover since you're not running a cam cover.

Basically what I'm getting at is you need to pull the cover and inspect it. There's no way around it.
 
If the balance shaft belt broke and it struck the wiring for the CPS then the car would not start until you replace the sensor. In a 2g the CPS controls the spark firing on two cylinders and the CAS controls the spark firing on the other two cylinders. You will need to remove the crank pulley with the belts. You might be able to remove and replace the CPS without removing the motor mount as I have done it before multiple times it all depends on having the correct tools.
 
If you're throwing a code for the crank sensor, I don't think you're going to have much of a choice than to pull the timing cover and inspect the sensor.

Is it possible the balance shaft belt snapped and took out the sensor? Sure. It's also possible something kicked up and got into the cover since you're not running a cam cover.

Basically what I'm getting at is you need to pull the cover and inspect it. There's no way around it.
Yeah I wasn't doubting that, just trying to avoid that motor mount if I can. I can deal with the belts and pulleys but at the point of pulling the timing belt off to replace the suspecred broken belt is where it would get difficult with where the car is.
 
If the balance shaft belt broke and it struck the wiring for the CPS then the car would not start until you replace the sensor. In a 2g the CPS controls the spark firing on two cylinders and the CAS controls the spark firing on the other two cylinders. You will need to remove the crank pulley with the belts. You might be able to remove and replace the CPS without removing the motor mount as I have done it before multiple times it all depends on having the correct tools.
Thankfully I work at a shop but for motorcycles, not cars. So I have access to plenty of tools just no lift so it's all in the ground in the parking lot Haha so if the balance shaft belt broke then I'm in for a big job and I might as well do a full belt overhaul.
 
Thankfully I work at a shop but for motorcycles, not cars. So I have access to plenty of tools just no lift so it's all in the ground in the parking lot Haha so if the balance shaft belt broke then I'm in for a big job and I might as well do a full belt overhaul.
Fortunately the job isn't that difficult on the ground, so as long as you have access to the proper tools, you should be fine without a lift.

First step though.. get that timing cover off and see what kind of damage you're working with.
 
Fortunately the job isn't that difficult on the ground, so as long as you have access to the proper tools, you should be fine without a lift.

First step though.. get that timing cover off and see what kind of damage you're working with.
No doubt. Gonna be slipping in and out of work this week to see what I can pull off and see what I can see. Thanks!
 
Its an easy test from above the car plus the timing could have jumped if something got caught between the belt and cogs, this includes the balance shaft belt.
 
Its an easy test from above the car plus the timing could have jumped if something got caught between the belt and cogs, this includes the balance shaft belt.
Wouldn't the results be inaccurate because the car can't run to warm up? I mean I suppose if there were a large difference it would be an obvious giveaway of some damage but how would a compression check show anything related to timing?
 
It's just a super easy thing from on top. You could just pull all the plugs, what maybe 5 minutes, and do a visual inspection of them and make sure you have some compression in all the cylinders to tell you the general health of the motor before digging in deep is all.
 
It's just a super easy thing from on top. You could just pull all the plugs, what maybe 5 minutes, and do a visual inspection of them and make sure you have some compression in all the cylinders to tell you the general health of the motor before digging in deep is all.
Makes sense, I just wasn't sure if the other person was suggesting I could tell something specific due to the situation. I didn't get a chance to do anything on it yesterday because work was busy and tomorrow we are expecting 1-2 inches of rain so I'll see if I can do the compression today at least before pulling the belts off at some point by the end of the weekend.
 
Its just a easy thing to do before the "enevatable" :thumb:
 
Got my mechanics bore scope and found the balance shaft belt lying just below the cams. I can try to pull out what I can but is it smart to try a compression test with where the belt is?
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Dig that balance shaft belt out first since you now know its laying in there, but for all we know it could have been laying in there for months or years and just now got tangled up and caused damage, then do a compression test.
 
Dig that balance shaft belt out first since you now know its laying in there, but for all we know it could have been laying in there for months or years and just now got tangled up and caused damage, then do a compression test.
Got that belt out yesterday and did the compression check this morning, we have 225ish on the left 2 and 210ish on the right 2 with the engine cold. This is all I could see and grab of the belt. https://www.instagram.com/p/BvPxlqAFgty/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
 
Ok, it doesnt look like it jumped time then, at least not enough to bend valves, I am going to assume at this point that the balance belt damaged the crankshaft sensor, but thats hard to believe that it damaged that sensor without jumping timing, but not impossible. Next I would test that crankshaft sensor output, take a multimeter and check for 12v on one wire and ground on the other terminal, use the pinout information to do that, the key needs to be on and the sensor unplugged to test those, you will then plug the sensor in and have someone crank it over to test for a pulse from the sensor, this is going to be an easier thing to test than to randomly pull the sensor which requires removal of the motor mount and timing belt removal, I would eliminate everything simple first.
 
Ok, it doesnt look like it jumped time then, at least not enough to bend valves, I am going to assume at this point that the balance belt damaged the crankshaft sensor, but thats hard to believe that it damaged that sensor without jumping timing, but not impossible. Next I would test that crankshaft sensor output, take a multimeter and check for 12v on one wire and ground on the other terminal, use the pinout information to do that, the key needs to be on and the sensor unplugged to test those, you will then plug the sensor in and have someone crank it over to test for a pulse from the sensor, this is going to be an easier thing to test than to randomly pull the sensor which requires removal of the motor mount and timing belt removal, I would eliminate everything simple first.
Backprobe tested the ground and got 0 ohms, backprobed the power and only got 5v both per the service manual. I did not try testing the signal wire after that but if you still think it's worth it I will, I just figured with only 5v at the power it was no good either way.
 
Backprobe tested the ground and got 0 ohms, backprobed the power and only got 5v both per the service manual. I did not try testing the signal wire after that but if you still think it's worth it I will, I just figured with only 5v at the power it was no good either way.
Thats a 5v sensor so 5v is fine, on one of the wires I shouldnt have said 12v I meant 5v, and its worth testing its output you should have 5v pulsed when cranking on the output, and if your seeing 5v on one of the wires that tells me that you have 12v going into it on one of the wires, you just need to make sure it pulses.
 
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The output is the important one since it's what will supply signal to the ECU, and if the trigger wheel/sensor is fubar'd then you won't get an output.
True. I don't mind checking and learning while I'm at it but I'm kind of thinking replace it while I'm doing the belts and such anyways haha not like I want to put everything back together just to have the sensor crap out anyways for some reason.
 
Even though the service manual says 12v, or was I reading something wrong? I'll test output either tomorrow or Tuesday. Thankfully I'm in a situation where I can take a little time.
So there should be 12v on one wire, ground on another wire and 5v to the other wire, the 5v should pulse when your cranking it, the same is true for the cam sensor, its been a while since I have messed with those and the Dsm's are unusual, I went back and pulled the factory schematic out and its powered by the main relay, so it would have 12v and then the ecu uses a pull down resistor on the 5v line.
 
Drove it home yesterday! The belt didn't take out the wiring but it must have tweaked the plate when it broke because it basically cut the crank sensor in half. The plate was fine though and everything else was good during the disassembly, no surprises for us. Ran good for the cooling system and burping that for 15 minutes or so, drove it about 20 minutes home on the highway and everything felt good. Didn't hit anything above 3500 rpms yet but I'm just making sure it still feels normal after a few days.
 

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