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2G Frequent drained battery. Need help.

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PFC_CiarlilloM

10+ Year Contributor
234
0
May 22, 2011
Euclid, Ohio
Okay so I've been having a problem with starting my car for the last couple weeks to a month.

It started out of no where one morning before I went to work. I came out to leave, and my car was dead. Of course, it was running perfectly the day before, and never had any issues with starting. I jumped my car, and went off to work without any problems. I started the car up on the way home, and had no issues. The next morning went to go leave, and the car was dead. I had the battery tested, and it checked out fine. It seemed to do this if it sat for 8 hours/overnight without being started.

The next morning it wouldn't start, so I jumped it, and in the process of reversing it just died. I figured it was due to not letting it run for awhile since I was late to work, and went to go jump it, but had no luck getting her to start -didn't even turn over in fact. I had to have a friend drive me to work.

I came home from work, went to go get the battery charged, and it came back with a dead cell. I figured okay it was probably just the battery on its way out, wasn't holding a charge, and a new one should solve the problem.

Anyways, I bought a slightly bigger Autocraft battery with 800CCA/1000CC and got it to fit in place. I went to go start the car, and it didn't even turn over.
After checking my fuses I noticed I blew the 20amp engine/motor fuseable link under the hood. [Maybe blew when the battery cell went?] Replaced it, and she started up without any issues.

And that was the end of my starting issues... atleast so I thought, until now.

Today, I went to go start my car, and it wouldn't even turn over. I tried jumping it, and it'd turn over, but wouldn't start. I went to go have it tested, and it was at 0% charge.

I just installed the dash trim kit for the radio the other day since it was just sitting there because the radio brackets were missing, but I made sure to wire everything properly, and use electrical tape since I couldn't really solder the wires. Also I completely disconnected the radio a couple days before, and it didn't seem to have any affect.

So my question is where would you guys start troubleshooting? Are there any common places that shorts/draws occur in our cars?

I guess I can pull my radio again, check the wiring to my gauges, and check the wiring to my Evo 8 ecu swap. Everything I do is right, and not careless to save from doing it twice. So maybe it has something to do with a previous owner. Even though the battery is bigger I don't think it's grounding out on the hood. I mean wouldn't I be able to tell when I'm driving?

On a side note, I want to look into replacing the alternator because when I turn my headlights on, my interior lights dim, and my RPM's will drop a few hundred as well.
 
So this relay on the left was what was causing the issues , makkng the noise. Unplugged it, test light turned off and noise stopped
 

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Well either :
1) the relay is stuck on
OR
2) there's a short to ground in either the relay's brown or brown-white wires (which keeps it activated - in that case you would hear a click when the relay is plugged in). Note: the short to ground could also just be (a) stuck door lock switch left side, (b) stuck door lock switch right side, (c) stuck door lock key cylinder switch right side, or (d) bad keyless receiver. Unplug each to find out. Or with the relay unplugged measure the brown and brown-white wires resistance to ground to see.
 
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