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AEM Kiggly 12 Tooth trigger Car won't start

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This is my current setup

2.3l stroker
300m cop setup
Aem 4 channel coil driver
aem ems-4 with aemtuner v3.2
kiggly 12 tooth crank
1g cas with 1 cam tooth

The ign is syncing and I pulled the logs with no sync errors
It shows 24 crank teeth to 1 cam tooth with no errors
Car is getting spark/ fuel/ and compression just fine

Unfortunately the timing has to be way off.
Im not sure that my coil and injector phasing is correct.

My injector and coil phasing is as follows

coil 1 = 0
coil 2 = 18
coil 3 = 6
coil 4 = 12

inj 1 = 0
inj 2 = 18
inj 3 = 6
inj 4 = 12

ignition sync = 0

With AEMtuner 3.2 I dont have the same 1-10 tooth tables like the old software so i dont know where to put the ignition sync tooth value at so it is actually firing number 1 cyl at the right time. Im going to try to take all the plugs out and crank the engine with the injectors unplugged to use the timing light and see where im at tonight.

I just needed like a base for the ignition sync so i have a good starting point.

Under the base cal that is still using the 1g cas (4 teeth crank and 2 tooth cam) the ignition is 1.75 teeth

So as I understand this the total crank teeth is four and it asumes tdc compression is at almost 180 advanced?
 
Have you gotten this figured out?

I have a similar setup that i'll be trying to fire this weekend. I couldn't get it figured out last season.
 
I have a 1999 GSX 7 bolt Engine with AEM V2 ECU. I purchased the Kiggly 12 Tooth Billet Crank wheel V3 and I am trying to set it up. I used the instructions that came with it. I am trying to set up the crank pick up settings (Fuel Teeth, Spark Teeth, Ignition Range and so forth. I modified the cam trigger like I was supposed to. It tries to start but won't run.. Any help will be appreciated..
 
I am running a Spark Tech COP set up, 2G Head, built 7 Bolt bottom end, AEM V2, Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor, its on Speed Density, PTE 780 Injectors, Comp 101200 cams and a FP BB Black Turbo.
Fuel Teeth 12
Wheel Teeth 12
Spark Teeth 6
Ign Range 1.50
Ign Sync 3.10
Tooth Time 50:1
MX Sync test 12 Tooth
Sync Teeth 1
Sync Error Reset 11
 
Last edited:
So, here's a long overdue update. I finally got around to devoting some time to this again recently and have gotten the car running well (aside from a small problem called out below). I had 2 issues preventing the car from starting, an intermittent connection issue with the CAS signal wire that only seemed to show up with a bit of vibrations from starting (oddly) and the base timing being WAY off. I guess shame on me for not discovering that sooner, but it has always been just me without another set of eyes to try and check timing while spinning the engine over. I sort of expected to have to make an adjustment to the base timing but didn't realize how far off it could be after this install. If you have all of the settings called out by Kiggly, or possibly the other ones listed out in this thread, it's quite possible base timing is the culprit of your non-starting issue for anyone else dealing with this.

However, there's 1 new/minor issue that has never happened before installing the trigger disc. The tachometer is occasionally behaving erratically. The tach seems normal until (at idle) I lightly tap the throttle at which point the tach (only sometimes, not every single time) jumps around for a second or so. It is obvious that the engine and tach are not in sync when this happens. The tach will sometimes drop almost all the way to 0 rpm in the second or so it's bouncing around. After the 1 second or so, it settles out just like normal. I have taken 2 very short drives on different days, the first day the tach was jumping all over the place even at the higher rpms. On the second day I only saw it jumping around during the idle/throttle tapping scenario and not at all while driving. I have confirmed that the AEM ECU is NOT seeing this erratic signal, it appears to be working correctly on the ECU side. But I did notice an RPM discrepancy of approximately 200rpm or so between the tach and ECU reading from what I could tell during the short drive, perhaps that is normal. I did also do a bit of back probing to check the supply voltage to the crank sensor and never saw less than 13V or so while someone else operated the pedal.

Has anyone seen this before or have any ideas what might cause something like this? It's a completely new issue that I've never had with this car. Even though the ECU seems to be getting correct RPM info, it's still a bit unsettling to see your tach jumping around while driving. I'm hoping there's just a small tweak required to an ECU setting or something that will straighten this out, but I'm out of ideas at this point....

Thanks!
Kyle
 
There seem to be a good amount of people here that have installed these and I was hoping to get some insight on how the routing of the wiring was done with the V3. Does it come out of the backside of the timing area like the 2g's or does the wiring come out of the front where the oil filter is? Any pics would be much appreciated!
 
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