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New Product Release!! 1G AWD curved rear UCA

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,976
1,542
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
You asked and we listened. We're happy to release our curved Upper Control Arm set for the AWD 1G DSM and AWD 3000gt/Stealth cars.

These 4130 arms are curved to allow 1.75" more frame clearance when compared to a straight arm. Perfect for you road race and auto-x guys who have clearance issues on your UCA's.

These are in stock and ready to ship!!!

More info: https://volkmetalcraft.com/prod…/1g-rear-upper-control-arms/

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You have my attention!! :applause: :thumb:
Beautiful as all of your parts are Paul!!!
I need to save up some MORE money, LOL.
 
Guys, I don't want to sound like a newbie here but I totally am. Is this something I need to consider getting if I eventually plan to lower my 1g awd on coilovers? I want to do it properly, and if that means getting upper and lower control arms then so be it. I just don't want that awful camber in the rear, and want to be able to get the car properly aligned afterwards.
 
Guys, I don't want to sound like a newbie here but I totally am. Is this something I need to consider getting if I eventually plan to lower my 1g awd on coilovers? I want to do it properly, and if that means getting upper and lower control arms then so be it. I just don't want that awful camber in the rear, and want to be able to get the car properly aligned afterwards.
It's not necessarily required - I think you can still use some camber correction kits but these control arms give you far more control over adjusting camber (easier too), along with solid bushings built in, and they'll be more rigid than the stock control arms. This is all going to help make the car handle better. I would suggest complimenting these with a rear toe eliminator kit and your rear suspension will be pretty stout (outside of your shocks/coilovers and swaybars).
 
Everything that Luda says is 100% correct, not necessarily required but highly recommended, I run Feals, Volk LCA's (sway bar option) and 3S UCA's (although I might be switching to a set of curved Volk UCA's soon) and I couldn't be happier..
 
It's not necessarily required - I think you can still use some camber correction kits but these control arms give you far more control over adjusting camber (easier too), along with solid bushings built in, and they'll be more rigid than the stock control arms. This is all going to help make the car handle better. I would suggest complimenting these with a rear toe eliminator kit and your rear suspension will be pretty stout (outside of your shocks/coilovers and swaybars).

Awesome, thank you for the input. Definitely saving this thread to refer back to once I am ready to address the suspension on the car.
 
Once you address the front bushings and swaybars it's going to be a matter of tuning with spring rates to change how the car rotates. I know that RRE used to like higher rates in the rear than in the front to make their race car rotate, which nobody else really does with DSM setups.

When addressing the front you'll want to do some research on "roll center" and "bump steer". Maybe Paul can help there too, assuming he hasn't done so already and I didn't already praise him for doing so.

Another big mod that will help with rotation and eliminate understeer on a 1g is the Evo 8 rear diff conversion... a GVR-4 member (Nick) wrote a great article on this swap in the Tech Articles section, which will also apply to the 1g:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-install-evo-lsd-into-1g-dsm-gvr4.516126/

I would add that to my list of mods if I was serious about a great handling 1g.

Sorry to barge into your thread Paul!
 
A very simple upgrade to the rear sway bar was to attach it to the trailing arm. I made a 1/2 inch plate with 5 threaded 3/8 threads so it is adjustable. I also drilled 3 holes in the SP sway bar.
 
A very simple upgrade to the rear sway bar was to attach it to the trailing arm. I made a 1/2 inch plate with 5 threaded 3/8 threads so it is adjustable. I also drilled 3 holes in the SP sway bar.
I planned to come up with a weld-on kit for that later this year. I don't expect it to be super popular, but could be used by 1G DSM and 3000GT guys alike. If I have a drag car and was set on keeping my sway bar, I'd rather attach the sway bar to the trailing arm so that I could run a simple aluminum LCA.
 
I planned to come up with a weld-on kit for that later this year. I don't expect it to be super popular, but could be used by 1G DSM and 3000GT guys alike. If I have a drag car and was set on keeping my sway bar, I'd rather attach the sway bar to the trailing arm so that I could run a simple aluminum LCA.
Mine plate is bolted to the trailing arm. I will try to post some photos
 
I would just like to know if these arms use differant ball joint between 1g dsm and 3000gt. Specifically asking about upper arms as the ball joint on Oem 3000gt is larger than dsm Oem ball joint. Thanks
 
I would just like to know if these arms use differant ball joint between 1g dsm and 3000gt. Specifically asking about upper arms as the ball joint on Oem 3000gt is larger than dsm Oem ball joint. Thanks
The balljoint that I use fits both applications.

In my experience, the hole size on the spindle and the spindle is the same from 90-97. In the 98-99 models, the ear on the knuckle is thinner and that simple allows the nut to spin on further. So it's best to use a thick washer under the nut for the 98-99 3000gt's so that the cotter pin hole will line up better on the castle nut. Aside from that, they share the same taper and the BJ stud pulls tight on the taper.
 
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