Thanks Greddy!!

greddy_1700 said:

Fuel tank vent / emissions line that went to the charcoal canister that is likely removed. Yes its fine to leave as is.

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Do you know if there’s a check valve in this line? If it doesn’t shouldn’t I cap it?

I believe there is a roll over check valve for it at the tank. If memory serves me, and someone please correct me if im wrong, you need to leave it open to allow pressure to dissipate.

I have seen some people run a new line out of the engine bay due to complaints of fuel vapor smells, but mine has just been left open in my engine bay for years.

I see. My fuel pressure drops to zero after some time when parked and my cold start seems to take a few more cranks to start (nothing new, got the car this way). I wasn’t sure if capping it would help with these issues.

Thanks for the input!

tk106 said:

I see. My fuel pressure drops to zero after some time when parked and my cold start seems to take a few more cranks to start (nothing new, got the car this way). I wasn’t sure if capping it would help with these issues.

Thanks for the input!

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the tank has to have some sort of venting. one could drop the tank and undo everything from the check valve forward and be ok. your fuel pressure dropping is normal. is your car on link? stock ecu it will take a couple cranks as the fuel pump wont turn on until it sees the signal from the cas. if you have link and is up to date you can have the pump turn on with the key in the on position and it helps startup tremendously.

Yes I have link and it currently primes for 5 seconds. It did help a little, maybe one revolution less...I think. Ive heard other 1g’s start and they fire right up. I researched this when I first got the car and remember someone saying it was a bad check valve in the tank or the older walbro 255s. Can’t remeber since that was 1.5 years ago

Also, depending on if someone swapped in a different pump, this is a common symptom of when the O ring on the fuel pump either isnt installed, or is damaged / installed incorrectly. Might be worth taking a look at the pump to line connection.

greddy_1700 said:

Also, depending on if someone swapped in a different pump, this is a common symptom of when the O ring on the fuel pump either isnt installed, or is damaged / installed incorrectly. Might be worth taking a look at the pump to line connection.

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I had a problem with the gauge not reading full when I got the car. So I had the pump out to fix that and to double check it was a 255. When I removed the pump, it was missing something (think there should have been 2 plastic pieces and the oring, if I remember correctly), it was missing 1 plastic piece. So I just cut the hard line the pump slides into and just used a rubber fuel line with clamps.

I have my head apart and the exhaust valves are pitted so this could be the issue.

After I changed injectors to my FIC 1120's, the NEW SEALS helped my car hold fuel pressure for a day now as opposed to before, with the stock 390's, it would leak down within 5-10 mins. My .02¢

That’s next after I get my head back together since I’m a little over 90% injduty. I really wanted cams but that’ll have to wait since tbelt service and head work is emptying my pockets.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

After I changed injectors to my FIC 1120's, the NEW SEALS helped my car hold fuel pressure for a day now as opposed to before, with the stock 390's, it would leak down within 5-10 mins. My .02¢

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pfft. ever since i went to my bolt in cell and magnafuel pump as soon as i shut the car off the fuel pressure goes . with the pump setup to prime with the key it still fires up without issue.