1G 1gb 7 bolt crankwalk?

Compound1g · Feb 11, 2019

Not sure if this is the correct subform to post this in

I just finished building my 1gb, put about 1000km on it and starting having clutch disengagement issues, had a couple other issues such as oil leaks, so I pulled the motor out and found the thrust bearing was completely destroyed, and killed the thrust surface on the crank as well. Before the rebuild, the motor had 220,000km on it and never had cw issues so I don't understand why it walked in just barely 1000km, I pulled the crank and put a newer one in, but before I did that, I ran the pump with a drill and primed to system to ensure that oil was getting to the mains properly, and it seems to be.
Now, I've setup a compound system using a 16g and the stock turbo, seems to work well, I used the stock oil line from the head for the stock turbo, and ran a line from the OFH for the second turbo, I was thinking that maybe having two lines would be pushing too much oil, and limiting how much gets to the mains, does that make sense?
Oil pressure always seemed low, but the stock guage sucks and I don't know exactly what my pressure is, but with the balance shafts eliminated, it should read higher than the first mark at 6k rpm, but it always read low, not quite sure why, it's a new oil pump as well so thats probably not an issue. Anyway, I just want it make sure it won't cw again, but I'm not sure exactly why it did to begin with

Compound1g · Feb 21, 2019

I set base timing to about 4°, ive got the cas almost all the way adjusted to get it to that point

I was thinking something like this:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353

I'd totally Run e85 if I could get it locally, nearest place to get it is a ferry ride and 800km away, but with 91 and meth injection, I should be able to run a decent amount of timing and boost right? 20 psi isn't THAT much

I'd get ecmlink if it wasn't $1000 CAD, pretty broke right now, anyways, to make it work, I'd have to get a map adapter cable, and change a bunch of stuff to make it work, this chip has a pretty good tune, and didn't have any ping issues before, that's why I'm thinking this is something else

DSMPT · Feb 21, 2019

Compound1g said:
I'd totally Run e85 if I could get it locally, nearest place to get it is a ferry ride and 800km away, but with 91 and meth injection, I should be able to run a decent amount of timing and boost right? 20 psi isn't THAT much
I'd get ecmlink if it wasn't $1000 CAD, pretty broke right now, anyways, to make it work, I'd have to get a map adapter cable, and change a bunch of stuff to make it work, this chip has a pretty good tune, and didn't have any ping issues before, that's why I'm thinking this is something else

Nothing is loose around the engine, right? When you pulled the car, it didn't have some dirt or sand grain on the road? The sound that sand hitting the oil pan has a very similar frequency to knock, so would be detected often as knock.
Can't you get any race gas or higher octane gas neither? And Yes you can go way higher boost with w/m injection and decent tuning. I run around 40 psi on 91-92 gas with 50/50 w/m injection, 9.2CR pistons. Of course I have all supporting mods but don't have a knock issue.
I used to have phantom knock issue when I was running with stock ECU, but I got very less phantom knock since I switched to AEM EMS Series 2 with a Evo knock sensor. 1g knock sensor doesn't work so well compare to 2g's or Evo's. I think you should get a standalone ecu but if the budget is tight, then at least something that allows you to log.

DSMPT · Feb 21, 2019

Compound1g said:
I was thinking something like this:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353

I am not sure if that one works properly, I have no personal experience with that. From my experience, I had used a knock monitor with a decent brand name but didn't work so well. Then finally I went Plex knock monitor. It works pretty well with me but the price is not that pretty...

Compound1g · Feb 21, 2019

There's nothing around here for race gas, best I can get is chevron 94, but it runs better and knocks less with shell 91

I was using that particular unit as an example, I'd just get something similar

I've got a spare knock sensor here, I'm thinking of plugging off the microphone port on it and letting it hang loose in the engine bay (to remove any input) and running it with that headset hooked up to listen to knock

Compound1g · Feb 21, 2019

Ya, it's almost undriveable, once it hits around 5-8 psi it starts bucking and shaking a bit the the needle shoots up, and if I hold it it builds a bit more boost but doesn't actually accelerate

It's 8.5:1 Cr running 91 and meth injection, I should be able to do 8 psi....

Compound1g · Feb 21, 2019

It's not consistent either, it will sometimes start bucking and feels like it just pulled 30° timing at like 6 psi and just fall on its face (while the gauge shoots up indicating it's registering knock) other times it works great and doesn't pull timing till around 16-18 psi

Also, I was on the highway a couple hours ago and held it in 5th, boost held around 18 psi, started registering knock around 4k rpm, but I held full throttle and it actually went away, the gauge went down and it kept pulling, so I don't know?

Compound1g · Feb 22, 2019

It's gotten worse. Basically can't boost, tried giving it meth earlier, no change, tried disabling it, no change. It's almost undriveable, just starts bucking and pulling timing at almost any boost level, gonna try swapping out the knock sensor first and see what happens

stillrunning · Feb 22, 2019

Knock will just lead to timing advance being pulled and flatten out your power, should not result in any bucking.

If you are getting bucking that is probably related to what is triggering your knock sensor.

You need to be logging what is going on when it happens to help figure out what's actually going on.

Compound1g · Feb 22, 2019

I wouldn't really say it's bucking, it's more like a nasty shudder

I tried another knock sensor in a hole a little farther down and all it did was trip a cel, so I guess it's bad, I tried pulling out the stock one and I couldnt get it out, but was able to back it off a bit and snug it back up, seemed to start knocking when it usually does but then just stopped and pulled hard right to 6k (let off at that point) so it's weird, and intermittent

As for a logger, I don't have one, was gonna get dsmlink but I plan to sell the car in a few weeks and would just be wasting money if I got it

motomattx · Feb 23, 2019

Have you verified your mechanical valve timing? it almost sounds like its off a tooth somewhere.

Compound1g · Feb 23, 2019

So I reseated the knock sensor, adjusted the meth Injection settings to start at 2 psi and all in by 20, and set the boost to around 20 psi, so far, it hasn't registered any knock, but if I turn the boost to around 25 psi it starts shuddering and THEN registers knock, so I bet it's just running out of fuel (even though the Afr holds steady at 10:1?), those small 560cc likely aren't enough for much more, so I'll leave it at 20 psi for now and just see what it does.

Compound1g · Feb 23, 2019

motomattx said:
Have you verified your mechanical valve timing? it almost sounds like its off a tooth somewhere.

I literally just put the motor back in the car about 100km ago, had to replace the crank, so since I had to re-install it, I know the valve timing is good, unless it jumped a tooth or something, but it doesn't feel like it

motomattx · Feb 24, 2019

Do you run adjustable cam gears?

SasaniFab · Feb 24, 2019

With the amount of air your compressing you shouldnt need meth. Have you established any clean runs at all without meth? This sounds more like a injector or electrical issue than anything else. Have you swapped out the injectors? I ran meth for almost two years.....you could also be stalling the cumbustion with to much meth/water ie rich knock. The best thing you could do is upgrade the injectors, tune the engine, add timing slowly and then and only then add meth. If you really think about it you have limited airflow with small injectors and your adding a secondary fuel source which more than likely is causing these issues. When I first started using my devils own kit I had stumbling issues. Take meth out of the equation, get the engine running correctly first. If i missed the fact that you tried and failed then you have other issues you need to sort out.

SasaniFab · Feb 24, 2019

Sounds to me like your pissing on the fire and it cant stay lit

Compound1g · Feb 24, 2019

motomattx said:
Do you run adjustable cam gears?

Yes, but they're zeroed out currently

amsrn13 said:
With the amount of air your compressing you shouldnt need meth. Have you established any clean runs at all without meth? This sounds more like a injector or electrical issue than anything else. Have you swapped out the injectors? I ran meth for almost two years.....you could also be stalling the cumbustion with to much meth/water ie rich knock. The best thing you could do is upgrade the injectors, tune the engine, add timing slowly and then and only then add meth. If you really think about it you have limited airflow with small injectors and your adding a secondary fuel source which more than likely is causing these issues. When I first started using my devils own kit I had stumbling issues. Take meth out of the equation, get the engine running correctly first. If i missed the fact that you tried and failed then you have other issues you need to sort out.

Ideally, tuning would be an option, the only reason I haven't gotten ecmlink is because of the cost right now
Anyways I think your correct about the rich knock, cause it would only do it shortly after meth would start, so I set it to start injecting meth at 2 psi, and all in at 20 and it running great so far, but every so often the knock gauhe moves a bit, I think the tune it has just has a toooon of timing, that and the injectors are a bit small for much more than 20 psi.

Only reason I added a meth kit is because if I did a pull, in any gear, once I would get up to around 5500-6k it would the knock gauge would start going up and you could hear timing being pulled, and if I held it, it would just kinda fall flat and stop pulling, doesn't do that now with the meth kit

DSMPT · Feb 24, 2019

Did you try to retard the base timing with CAS? If you didn't, just give it a shot and then see if the knock sensor still detects knock or not. If it does, then probably it is detecting something else. If doesn't, then it was real knock and you had the ignition timing too advanced.

Compound1g · Feb 24, 2019

DSMPT said:
Did you try to retard the base timing with CAS? If you didn't, just give it a shot and then see if the knock sensor still detects knock or not. If it does, then probably it is detecting something else. If doesn't, then it was real knock and you had the ignition timing too advanced.

I've got the cas turned almost all the way to get it to about 4° base timing, turning the other way just gives me a toooon of advance even just turning it a little bit

Should also mention, my 7 bolt (domed, black cover) cas died on my so I slapped my 6 bolt spare one it and been running on that for a while, dont think it changed anything though

DSMPT · Feb 24, 2019

You mean you turned the CAS counterclockwise all the way out then got 4°BTDC? That doesn't sound right. Did you check the timing with a timing light?

Compound1g · Feb 24, 2019

DSMPT said:
You mean you turned the CAS counterclockwise all the way out then got 4°BTDC? That doesn't sound right. Did you check the timing with a timing light?

Yes, I used a timing light with the marks on the timing cover and adjusted the cas till I got about 5°, then turned it a bit further to get closer to what I assume to be about 4°, but the cas is almost all the way counter clockwise now

SasaniFab · Feb 24, 2019

At the end of the day you shouldnt be messing with meth, compounding or any engine modification without a way to tune the engine. I wouldnt continue until you get at the minimum ecm link

motomattx · Feb 24, 2019

Have you verified top dead center with a dowel down the number one cylinder? the crank pulley can separate and move enough to throw things off, again the fact that you cant really adjust your ignition timing is yet another sign that something isnt right.

Compound1g · Feb 24, 2019

amsrn13 said:
At the end of the day you shouldnt be messing with meth, compounding or any engine modification without a way to tune the engine. I wouldnt continue until you get at the minimum ecm link

Ya, your right, I'm just trying to get it to a driveable position right now

motomattx said:
Have you verified top dead center with a dowel down the number one cylinder? the crank pulley can separate and move enough to throw things off, again the fact that you cant really adjust your ignition timing is yet another sign that something isnt right.

I'm going to use a timing light with advance and set timing via the timing sprockets, I've read that's more reliable than the timing cover marks

pauleyman · Feb 24, 2019

Compound1g said:
Ya, your right, I'm just trying to get it to a driveable position right now

I'm going to use a timing light with advance and set timing via the timing sprockets, I've read that's more reliable than the timing cover marks

Read up on those. We use a waste spark ignition so you have to account for that. You still use the timing cover Marks. You just get to use zero which is usually larger and more clear.

Compound1g · Feb 26, 2019

Long story short, base timing was off, had it too advanced, and was injecting too much water-meth (rich knock) knock gauge barely moves now and can pull right till the injectors run out at around 22-25 psi, so I'll set the MBC to 20 and put the timing to around 3° or so and leave it

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