Hey guys,

I just wanted to show another way of lapping valves if you do not have the correct tool for the job.

Here is what I use. To be fair, this is just a personal preference. I used the correct tool and to be honest, I find it sorta difficult to use with smaller exhaust valves.

A mechanic taught this to me when I worked at Lexus and have done this ever since. I just got finished lapping my valves and got half way thru and thought I'd take some pics and share this info with some others. It may help you out and it may not. Its up to the user.

What you need:
-a cordless drill or cordless impact
-1/4" hose cut to about 3-4 inches
-1/4" drill bit or 1/4"quick release attachment

How to use what you need:
-Basicly if you're using a drill, take the 1/4" drill bit and turn it so the blunt end is out. Then slip the hose over the blunt end of the drill bit.
-Slide the valve with the lapping compound on it like would normally do in http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341636-how-lap-valve.html
-Then just slip the hose over the other end of the valve. Make sure u leave enough slack so you can move the valve back and forth.
-Pull the trigger and let it grind away. I like to hold my finger against the bottom of the valve while I hold it to seat the valve. I hold it for maybe 3-5 seconds then let off and repeat a couple times.
-Pull out the valve, clean and inspect. Repeat if nessicary.

Some reason my camera did not want to focus on a couple. Hope this helps if you do not have the correct tool but have a 1/4" hose laying around like I did.

I've been using that technique for years, only way to go IMHO. I had a can gear let loose on my old CBR600 and I was able to seat 10 new valves in fairly short order this way. ( they had been cut for use but never installed when I got them anyway ) but they seated in perfectly with 2 compounds,vacum line and a cordless drill. I'll never sit trying to "make fire" with that suction cup tool again

I have been do it that way for over 10 years

Man your camera sucks haha, I havent personally done this but the next set I do I will give this a shot. Thanks for the tip.

I know..
Sometimes it takes really nice pictures and then for some reason it just does not wanna focus on anything.. wierd.

That's the pain of digital cameras.. My droid (EVO Shift) is 5.3 mp (more than anything i've owned) and even shoots 720p video.. but when i take a pic, it will be in PERFECT focus, but then it hesitates before making the "shutter sound" and when it does it;s always fuzzy compared to when i hit the button

Reviving this thread on purpose. The guide is very well written but I want to ask about possible cons (not here to argue!).

What could be the possible negative impacts of doing it this way? Could holding the drill on the opposite side of the valve cause the stem to lose concentricity with the guide, making one side of the valve face apply more/less pressure and vice versa, resulting in uneven lapping?

Could this constant spinning motion somehow damage the guide internally?

Also, do you only turn the drill one way until the end of the procedure, or do you switch direction halfway? If so, what difference would switching directions make? One argument I've heard against rotating in the same direction is if a particle gets embedded too deep, it will travel the whole circumference of the seat, ruining the whole seal.

Again, I'm not arguing, just asking for more information. I'm currently doing a valve job myself. I first did it by hand with the lapping tool, but the valves leaked. Then I tried this method, but I got even more leaks. Got a spare set of valves now, gonna see if I'll get different results.

I've been doing it for over 20 years now with the drilling machine and never had any leaks. That tells me you are doing something wrong, maybe not enough grinding paste.