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2G No Start sub zero conditions

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MasterMatt209

Proven Member
473
30
Jan 17, 2015
Danville, Indiana
This may be a stupid question but I’m kinda curious. I’m running 10w30 in my Talon and were getting record setting temps here in Indiana and it will be down to -11 but with the windchill might hit -50. Do I need to take any precautions with starting the car? Maybe avoiding starting it, or am I overthinking?
 
For safety uplug the coil pack so that any fuel pushed from the cylinders wont ignite from the spark from the coils, then you can let them hang.

Okay I’m going to do that in the morning I hope one of the auto stores near me has those NGKs in stock. I messed up and got the protruded ones when I replaced mine originally
 
"I will agree that a battery @12.7v is ideal, I've started my car with the battery sitting as low as 11.7v, and it's rear-relocated."

There are basically two minimum voltages that a vehicle requires to start/run. One would be what the starter circuit requires to function. The other is the ignition. The lower the voltage, the more the starter robs from the ignition and electronics. (it's easy to measure the battery voltage, the current, not so much)
Just because the engine is spinning doesn't mean the plugs are firing well enough to light off the mixture. Or firing at all under compression. The lower the voltage, the more critical the good condition of the various components becomes to successfully starting up. Batteries of all types don't like excessive cold, and their cranking capacity is severely reduced when you see (--) numbers.

A used 12 V lead acid batt is fully charged at 12.6v, and essentially dead at 11.9v for cranking purposes. Most cars with electronics will cease to run when the voltage drops to 11.2v to 12.0v, depending on model/brand. (this would be seen when your alternator dies, and you are running just on the battery. Points/distributor vehicles can run down to maybe 5.5v before stopping.) BTW, those points systems started on 12v, but ran on 6-8v, to keep the points from burning up too soon.

Always remember, the starter robs power from the ignition.
 
Replace them, a fouled plug is garbage no matter what anyone might tell you, I dont care if its 24 hours old, its junk if its fouled, I have seen them cleaned and they only end up misfiring later on and costing you power and starting problems down the road, once they fail they are failed, yes you might clean them and get it to run and drive, but they are never right again, spend the $8.00 on some NGK B8ES plugs. Then you check for spark of course on all four, if its good put them in and see if it will start, if it wont start within 5 seconds stop and pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it with the throttle to the floor to clean it out.

I have spark on all 4 still no start
 
Have you tried spraying some starting fluid/ether? When conditions are marginal (car and/or weather) that may be a sufficiently easy fuel to ignite. Basically, if it won't start with this, you have a problem with ignition or mechanical (valves, etc). Oh, sometimes it is lack of air, such as a blockage in the intake tract. Check the filter area and the intake horn for a mouse nest.
 
Have you tried spraying some starting fluid/ether? When conditions are marginal (car and/or weather) that may be a sufficiently easy fuel to ignite. Basically, if it won't start with this, you have a problem with ignition or mechanical (valves, etc). Oh, sometimes it is lack of air, such as a blockage in the intake tract. Check the filter area and the intake horn for a mouse nest.

Where should I spray the starter fluid? Also could the starter cause the issue I’m having?
 
Drat, ended too soon. If it starts with that spray, but doesn't continue to run, that would indicate a fuel supply issue. Pump, regulator, wiring to injectors, ecu, or lack of fuel in the tank. Could also be water in the fuel that froze, blacking fuel delivery. Considering how cold it is, that might be high on the possible list.
 
In the intake tract. I would be inclined to pull the hose off the intake manifold to spray, but you have to replace the hose before starting. If there is a vacuum fitting that can be uncapped near the throttle body, that might be easier. Good time to check for blockage.
 
In the intake tract. I would be inclined to pull the hose off the intake manifold to spray, but you have to replace the hose before starting. If there is a vacuum fitting that can be uncapped near the throttle body, that might be easier. Good time to check for blockage.

It has an egr delete so the three nipples on top of the throttle body can be utilized here
 
The starter could have developed an internal problem that causes a high current draw. That would manifest as slow spinning of the engine, and contribute to poor ignition performance. If it still spins slow with a jumper battery assisting, the starter is bad, or you have bad cable connections (loose, corroded) The installed battery could also have an internal problem that is made worse from cold. If this is the case, a jumper batt might not help much. The bad batt would need to be taken out of the circuit.
 
BTW, the posts and clamps need to be fairly shiny. When it gets dark, it becomes an insulator. If the surface is black, it is totally insulated electrically. (it also is very hard, and typically has to be scraped clean very aggressively to get to good metal that conducts)
 
The starter could have developed an internal problem that causes a high current draw. That would manifest as slow spinning of the engine, and contribute to poor ignition performance. If it still spins slow with a jumper battery assisting, the starter is bad, or you have bad cable connections (loose, corroded) The installed battery could also have an internal problem that is made worse from cold. If this is the case, a jumper batt might not help much. The bad batt would need to be taken out of the circuit.

I picked up a new starter I was on my way home and there’s a 24 hour autozone. I’m going to test battery voltage, try the starter fluid, then see if a jump will change cranking speed. It’s still freezing and now snowing but I need the car to run haha. Will report back soon enough with tonight’s outcome.
 
BTW, the posts and clamps need to be fairly shiny. When it gets dark, it becomes an insulator. If the surface is black, it is totally insulated electrically. (it also is very hard, and typically has to be scraped clean very aggressively to get to good metal that conducts)

The sound in the beginning that click, is that the starter? Does that mean it’s good?

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To me the sound in the last video when you first turn on the key sound like relays trying to energize in a low voltage situation. I'd go through all the grounds & inspect & clean them up to rule them out & then go through the positive side.
 
Deffinatly not spinning fast enough, get it inside and warm it up!!

What do you think is too cold though? I brought the battery inside my house then brought it back out to try and start. Or are you saying the oils too cold or something?
 
To me the sound in the last video when you first turn on the key sound like relays trying to energize in a low voltage situation. I'd go through all the grounds & inspect & clean them up to rule them out & then go through the positive side.

I will try that, I added a new ground last night zero gauge wire. But I will get through it all
 
Oil that's freezing cold with all the viscoity emusifiers coagulating will slow down a motor turning over.
 
Oil that's freezing cold with all the viscoity emusifiers coagulating will slow down a motor turning over.

Okay I’m gonna get my buddy over and get it in the garage and get a heater in there. I watched a few videos changing the starter i usually do a lot of my own mechanic work, I hope I can knock that out if it turns out to be the problem.
 
What do you think is too cold though? I brought the battery inside my house then brought it back out to try and start. Or are you saying the oils too cold or something?

the oil being so cold its so thick. even my truck is slow cranking after soaking all night outside. i don't think there is honestly a problem with the car other then its cold(don't quote me I'm not there so idk for sure) put some oil in a jug and let it sit outside for a few hours then move it around, its like honey at these temps, and can really cause slow cranking. try a oil heater that's magnetic or if possible just wait till the weekend, its supposed to warm up a bit. if it was running fine then you parked it odds are it will run, unless something really bad happened
 
Okay I’m gonna get my buddy over and get it in the garage and get a heater in there. I watched a few videos changing the starter i usually do a lot of my own mechanic work, I hope I can knock that out if it turns out to be the problem.

the starter is more then likely not an issue. get it warmed up and try starting it. but it will need to soak for more then a few hours. depending on the temp you can get the garage to.i would park it and leave it till tomorrow morning to let everything come up to a higher temp.
 
the starter is more then likely not an issue. get it warmed up and try starting it. but it will need to soak for more then a few hours. depending on the temp you can get the garage to.i would park it and leave it till tomorrow morning to let everything come up to a higher temp.

Okay, the temp is up to 25 degrees today and I know the car has started in colder, but I will still try heating it up. Garage is usually in the 50s I believe at these temps
 
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