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2G Fixing up a 95 Gsx - tips/advice?

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Sephent

Proven Member
61
2
Feb 18, 2016
Medford, Oregon
Hey all. So I just picked myself up a 95 gsx. Only info I got was "it was running fine. Then it died and will not start" Claims it would crank but not start and suggested fuel pump. Did not sound like it has been sitting for long, but tags have been expired since 2009.
I was just curious of any tips on what to check and replace overall for a car like this? I have read and will continue to read threads on similar issues. Sounds like crank sensor and cam sensors going bad trigger the auto shutoff relay. But if it is suggested to take off the head and investigate things, etc. Just let me know. I think I am going to change the oil and put fresh gas in before any startup attempt is made.

Just hoping to get some advice with this car on what to look for overall :) it is my dream car and glad I finally got it. Now time to make sure nothing is half assed on it. Only 90k miles also.

Thank you in advance. And as stated before. I know I have a lot more research and reading to do. Which I plan on doing thoroughly..
 

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So since air was pushing up to the valve cover and through a Crack, does that mean air is pushing past the valves? Any recommendations on how to proceed? Will leak down test again since I put some stuff over the cracks. Would the crack ontop of the valve cover cause any issues?
 
So since air was pushing up to the valve cover and through a Crack, does that mean air is pushing past the valves? Any recommendations on how to proceed? Will leak down test again since I put some stuff over the cracks. Would the crack ontop of the valve cover cause any issues?
No that does not mean its leaking past the valves. If it did it wouldn't be coming out the valve cover. It would be out the exhaust or hack theough the intake. What was the leakdown percentage? Crack just means an oil leak and mess.
 
This one was really good. The other ones were in the middle of the yellow while air was whistling past the crack on the valve cover
 

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Got the engine to start. It's having some knocking noise under the valve cover by the #1 cylinder. Kind of sounds like rod knock/spun rod bearing... Hoping it just needs to be ran for a little bit... Here's the video...

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My main concern now is I am pretty sure the engine has rod knock... I took a video of it.. I wish there was a spare engine within driving distance I could pick up.. Because I really don't have the money to dump into completely rebuilding this engine...
 
Is there a way to check the timing from the harmonic balancer without pulling it? The timing on the cams are dead on and TDC with 4 while cams are lined up. So I just assumed timing was good... But it really sounds like rod knock and when I pull the dipstick the oil on it is extremely thin and looks glittery...

How hard is it to rebuild these engines? I heard JUST replacing the bottom end is a bad idea and you should just rebuild it all...
 
I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that its rod knock. If the car has been sitting I would check the water pump since its on the side the noise is coming from. Pull the belts and turn it by hand and see if you feel any friction, hear any noises while turning it, and if there is play in it. Could be a loose impeller/ bad bearings. To me it sounds like the impeller is flopping around. Actually while the belts are off check all the pulleys, ps, ac, could also try turning the crank by hand and see what happens. As far as the glitter in the oil possible with the way the turbo looks could be bearing metal from the turbo. Also, I noticed nobody mentioned to see if you have any codes in the ecu, so if you have a scanner or can borrow/ get a loaner it wouldn't hurt to check. But who knows, I would go through it all and start ruling things out before breaking it down, or swapping it out.
 
Okay. I'll pull the belts and take a look. I have a code reader. Only code it is throwing is o2 sensor bank 1. If it is the impeller, how hard is that to get to? I was thinking of dropping the oil pan and seeing if there is anything in there that shouldn't be there
 
You don't really get lucky with cars like that. It doesn't look like it been taken care of. Make sure you get a new, fresh oil change and go from there. Most likely you'll need a new bottom end.
 
Okay I'll see with a timing gun. It idles pretty rough and does not Rev very well. Everything sounds wayyyy worse when I Rev. There is also a lot of white smoke as you could see in the video, as well as out the tailpipe.
Idk if it is related but several random dash lights flash on and off while the car is running also. Coolant light and 2 misc lights on the left side. They never fully light up but are dim and flashing on and off really fast. I can try to get a Pic In the morning if needed. Coolant is full and doesn't overheat. Oil pressure gauge never moves up so the sensor may be dead.
I'll do a compression test and another leak down test and post results. And drop oil pan when it's not 10° outside heh.
I am thinking of pulling the engine and buying a $500 complete engine rebuild kit since I plan on staying close to stock.. Unless I can get ahold of a decent replacement engine for cheaper
 
I assume this car has sat for a while. You need a full mechanical timing check and likely belt replacement. You do understand a mechanical timing check vs an ignition timing check? The simple visual checks you have done are not going to work. You need to take the covers off and check thoroughly. It is the only way. Doing any other compression or leak down test prior to this is foolish. If the car hasn’t been sitting for a while I’m not surprised at a little smoke at start up. I would be more concerned once it runs correctly and the smoke were to continue. You will not know until you can get it to run consistently. If at all.
 
Apparently not. I was thinking the gun that looks like a strobe light. I'm guessing that is for ignition timing. How do I do the full mechanical timing check? I have the cover off. Cams line up with #4 being TDC. Will double check the crank pulley timing mark. Wasn't able to see one. What else is there to check?
 
So cylinder 1 has super low compression . That's where I'm hearing the knock
 

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